So i bought a project hatch and i recently just finished it and i was planning to raise them up, they have coil overs but when i was about to go and raise them up, i noticed the coil over springs were cut.... i was pretty pissed but what can you do right? i was just wondering would i still be able to raise them in the mean time and not have a problem? and how could i replace them? would i just have to buy the springs(what kind)? or a whole new kit?

 

no idea what you have or what coilovers are on your car. ground controls and a few others use eibach ers springs. those are easily replaced. if you have junk overs..well.....buy something decent this time

 

I believe the guy said skunk 2 coil overs but i dont know why he would cut them... would i have to buy the same exact springs? or could i buy the eibach springs and just put them on there? im really NEW as you can tell :\

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RED-R...item4aa4f67810

would you not recommend buying those? im planning to buy teins later on but since i heard cut springs are really bad for your suspension im just trying to replace them as soon as possible.

 

cut spring don't always kill things, slammed cars kill things

best bang for your buck in suspension is the koni/gc combo for $799

tein makes a few alright products but you pay for hype

those 62 springs are ****

just drive on what you have until you can replace it with quality. why do the work twice? twist the coilovers up some so you aren't riding on the ground and drive

 

Thanks for helping me! i will raise them as much as i can my car is pretty slammed right now and i hate it...

I dont have the tool to adjust it, i never got it from the previous owner...should i just do it by hand? or should i buy the tool if i can?

 

You might be able to do it by hand. With some elbow grease I can probably do mine.

 

This reminds me of my friends old suspension. 10k skunk2 front springs, driver side had a coil cut off and pass side didn't.

There are a lot of dumb people with hondas and they will lie their asses off about things done to them.

 

you can do it by hand....if they aren't seized and you unload the suspension by jacking the car up.

a big *** pair of channel locks also works

 

Would it be fine if i bought some ground control coilover sleeves then buy knoi shocks later on?

 

yea but here's the problem. if you buy koni sport specific ground controls from what patrick found when calling they won't fit. i guess the koni sport shock diameter is slightly smaller than OEM so it won't work. BUT, what you could probably do is buy the koni ground control kit and then use those springs on your existing perches coilover perches. you would have to check the fitment but as long as they are the same diameter spring it would work until you save enough to get konis

if you tell us what model the car is

what it weighs
what tire you want to optimize it for
and what sway bars you're using

i can give you a good place to go with what rates to order

 

Why are you guys soo amazing.... hahah its for a 1997 civic hatchback with a jdm d15b no ps, ac back seats, sparetire, has a c pillar, stock sway bars pretty sure? im planning to change those soon. The tires are going to be 16 inch konig supermesh with 205/45/16 size tires or 215/45/16. anymore info? i dont know the exact weight... sorry..

 

need tires, don't care what size you're running, need to know what tread compound you're going toward. which of the 3 is going to be more like it

1. all season {kumho asx}
2. hard street sport tires {yoke s drive}
3. soft street sport tires {yoke ad08}

and what bars are you going to run? if it's a civic you'll either need integra or function 7 arms to run the ITR rear bar, if you stay with civic arms you can run the ST 19mm bar

the ST bar is your cheapest route since you don't need a frame reinforcement or new arms

 

by civic bar you mean staying stock sway bars right? i might stay with stock sway bars. If i stay with stock i should get the 19mm st koni shock?

and i will be using all season tires.

 

ST makes a larger rear sway for the civic arms, you attach at the shock points rather than on the arms like an integra,

with all season tires you don't even need koni sports since the str.t can control the rates that will work best with those tires. that means $300 shocks and you can buy ground controls now since the koni str.t uses the non koni ground control. confused yet? if you saw the parts you wouldn't be. koni sports don't have welded on spring perches like most shocks do so they require a special ground control sleeve. the str.t is like an oem shock with better valving so they use standard sleeves.

get the ST suspension 19mm rear bar and 350/300 ground control spring rates. that will be quite sporty with all season tires.

 

Could you give me separate links to what your talking about cuz im super confused.... hahahah im really new... sooo it sucks being new.... i literally dont know SHIET.

so would i buy

Option A:
These springs
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GROUN...item2a0a2f419b
With these shocks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KONI-...item5add1dac15

Or
Option B:
are my stock shocks fine? and go ahead with buying just the springs in the link above and what sway bar were you talking about? could i get a link please?


Im really sorry for asking soo many questions and im really thank you for helping me out... im new to the game just started and 18 and learning hopefully to help others in the future.... haha..:\

 

you have the shocks right but call ground control directly and tell them you want 350lb front 300lb rear rates. if you just order the off the shelf rates it's not optimized for your car. ground control usually will match anyones price as well since you're buying direct.

 

They can also give you the best spring rates for the car based on what engine is in it, as well.

But I have to ask, OP, you bought a project car and said you finished it, yet you don't really know about the suspension stuff we've been telling you about? Seems a bit odd, just sayin.

 

hahaha by finishing meaning like... engine and wiring it and such and making it run properly hahah i just started on the suspension then gonna move on to fix a couple of things with the bumpers and etc hahah i bought a jdm d15b and it took me a while to get it running right :\ about 3 months? and i just now recently moved to the suspension and trying to learn as much as possible on it and you guys are helping a great deal! i thank you all again! i will be contacting ground control soon! i bought tires for my new rims and i cant get them on cuz of my stupid stupid cut springs on the coil overs... i mean who would do such a thing... soo i will be raising the cut coil overs as much as i can tomorrow and see how that goes! and maybe get the gc in soon! do you know how long they usually take for them to get to your house? i live in WA Sorry for the confusion of saying i was "done"

 

kinda sorta, they get a lot of feedback which they pass on to customers but it's extremely hard to predict what each person wants. they also tend to bias people a little harder on understeer than i do. HP does have a big effect on the rates a person goes with but it really lines up with the tires. unless the car is boosted it''s pretty easy to get an integra or civic to turn neutral using a larger rear bar and around 50lbs lighter in the rear. it creates a very very mild understeer car that's still street safe in the rain as long as you don't do anything crazy and still pretty fast. stiff rates also will slow down most beginners since they no longer can feel what's going on with the car. it's like you have traction turn and wham you're sliding.

 

Oh yeah...i forgot to add i was planning to add a t3 turbo later on at 7-8 psi daily drive... hahah will that affect anything got me curious while i was reading what you said..

 

yea actually it does but all season tires are totally inadequate for a turbo car if you actually want it to perform. you magically warped to the land of sticky street tires. again, if you actually care about using the hp you just created. if you wind up somewhere in the 200-250whp range you'll want at least an exedy stage 1 clutch or a stage 2 if you ever run R compound tires. on the street you have a few choices in 205 50 15

kumho xs
dunlop star spec
yokohama ad08
bridgestone re11

in fact that list is easy to bring down to two tires

kumho xs
yoke ad08

why?

the kumho is the cheapest and just as fast in the dry....kind of shitty wet tire but not completely horrible, just not good

the yoke ad08 is the best of the 4 with great wet performance and outstanding feel. dry times should be nearly identical

you'll also want koni sports and more spring. 500/450 with that larger rear bar would be a good match with those tires. you'll also need more brake. the 23t ITR front calipers will do it. use axxis ultimate, hawk hp+ or carbotech ax6 pads and you'll have a hot little car. this build as i just laid it out along with the super 60 turbo you plan to use will cost you just over $4,000 to do right not counting the ecu, hondata or tune time. probably will come in right at $5,000 if you save money and just use the s100



ahhh hell i just typed all this out and re read you have a d15b, that engine is a dog. you would actually be money ahead doing a gsr/itr swap. you can stay NA and make as much or more hp than a low boost d15. a quality turbo setup will run you at least $2000. a jdm gsr is $1500, still have to find a transmission though

ANYWAY back to the slow d15

what i said the first time will work if you turbo that car. it's going to make what? like 160-170whp boosted? that's fine at 350/300 springs with str.t shocks. you still would be happier using a tire like the yoke S-drive over all seasons though.

so...moral of the story...choose your hp level and build accordingly

 

Went to les shwab today to get my tires installed and my new konig super mesh wheels on and after they took them off they told me that my car had MAJOR cambering. They told me the only way to fix it was through a kit after reading the FAQ in the thread, i told them it would be fine and to go ahead with the installation, i was wondering since my car is mad slammed if that is what is causing the camber he said it was an estimate of 4 degrees? Since i will be raising them a bit tomorrow i was just wondering if it will fix the cambering up a little bit?

End of the story just ended up getting the tires on the wheels not installed since i need to raise them or else i will rub if i hit a bump while turning. Getting an alignment after my car is raised a little bit tomorrow and new 16 inch wheels installed hopefully.. might stick with cut coil overs for now till i get the money for GC.



Picture of how low
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4398704_n.jpg

 

no you didn't !

you paid for an alignment BEFORE you raised your car?

take a moment while i e-bitch slap you


you just lit money on fire lol

when you raise the car it will completely waste the toe set they did. 4deg is way too low, you have no suspension travel at this point. raise the car to the point you're around 2.5deg deg in the front and you won't have a problem.

after you align the car again

once you do this we can discuss alignment settings based on what you want the car to do. want the car to turn quick? i can tell you how. go like an arrow? i can do that too. anyway raise that car off the ground and get ready to have it aligned again.

btw, isn't there a firestone around your area? get the lifetime alignment and never pay for one again on that car. it will pay for itself after 2 alignments

 

HAHAHA well first of all i canceled the alignment because i knew i was gonna need one later on and I heard fire stone did bad jobs at alignments :/ maybe im wrong and how much are they? I am planning to raise the car today i will tell you how it goes. stupid cut coil overs who would do such a thing...

 

some 16yr old who's friends told him it was cool would be my guess

firestone, like elsewhere is only as good as the rack and the tech

as for alignment specs.

rear .05 in each side

front you have two choices

zero toe if you want maximum tire life

or

run .03 out each side if you want a fast turn in and improved cornering feel

whatever you choose ask to sit in the car when it's done, it will make a difference in the car actually keeping these numbers while you drive

and

how far are you from beaverton? the firestone there has a couple good honda techs