Well i notice last week that my brakes started squeeking. so i started lookin for some stealerships to take my car Si since my car is at 68k and my extended warranty is 70k, i figure i get her looked over see if there is anything warranty cover, than BAM! out of now where 2 days ago just started scratching/screeching/shiring sound. So my question is, has anyone expierence this with their FG2 or FA and do you think that my front calipers gone bad( i had the gf drive while i walked along and heard it come from FR side and sometimes on FL side ) and are dragging like hell. I found dealer/stealership quote me for 180 including parts and labor. but i wanna be ready for any BS they might to try to give me... what thoughts you guys have???

 

It may just need the pads replaced and the rotors resurfaced. Usually a duration of one week from the start of brakes squeeking/screeching will not cause the rotors to get gouged and be needing replacement. I doubt anything will be wrong with the calipers.

If you are concerned about costs, go to an independent shop for the pad replacement. Heck, someone on HT might be willing to do it for you.

 

eh, I would do it just, kinda cold... I would was also going with a dealer because of the "multi point inspection" bllf lol. i wonder if they do some Hawks for cheaper.

 

I work for Honda... we charge 199 for fronts / 219 for rears (pads & resurface)

 

Oh ok so if they do need to be resurfaced it won't be that much of big deal. my rears look fine and not fussin so i'm opt out of that. well appointment been set for monday Morn.

 

Do them yourself. Takes no more than 30 min. Get Ceramic pads and brake lube. May cost you $35-40 in parts. You will need to get a piston retractor or use a big C clamp to push it back in.

 

^ C clamp FTW, and it usually only takes a few minutes on each wheel.

 

so you have a warranty yet theyll still charge you?

 

Brakes are not a warranted item, you can buy brake pads with a warranty at auto zone or advance, but the warranty only covers the pad itself not the labor of installing them.

My advice is to find someone in your area to help you, even if you did need new rotors it wouldn't cost you a ton of money like brake places or dealers charge.

If your in my area (NE PA) I would be happy to help to save you the bucks, at no cost for labor.

 

well i got it done, found out the rears were just as bad so i got the whole thing done and an oil change i was due for a very pretty penny, but i found something interesting about the engine, that it could be burning in excessive amount of oil. I always end putting in a quart of RP after oil change till the next time is due, and this time the engine had very low amount oil in it, raises some eye brows huh?

 

Not really, it's kind of a given that these engines burn oil because of the Vtec...especially if it's driven more aggressively...

 

It could be that the person who put the oil in the car only put in what the 1.8 engine required, leaving you low on oil from the start.

Not everyone pulls the stick after an oil change to make sure the right amount is in the engine.

 

Yea, front brake pads are a cinch to change - 2 bolts hold the caliper in place, and the C-clamp retracts the pistons. I didn't resurface the rotors, as there was only 30K on them. Easy job.

 

you probably need new pads and if you didn't ride the rotors to bad you can turn them, and 180 is a lot but if its the first change of the rotors it might be worth it because the factor bolt is more than likely rusted in place

 

If you are the original owner and you know that none of the pads have never been changed, I would shop for another repair shop.

Most of the braking is done by the front pads, so they wear out sooner than the rears. All of my cars (Honda/Acura/Ford/Chevy), which have had 4 wheel disc brakes, have worn out 2 sets of front pads before the rear pads needed to be changed.

On to the oil in our SI Civics. I tried to use the quanties listed in my owners manual, after I changed my oil, but a week later I was always 1 quart low.

So, I saved an empty 5 quart oil container and poured my dirty oil into it. Then I looked at the amount of dirty oil in the container and that is how much fresh oil I put in my car. Since then, I haven't needed to add any oil, between oil changes.