Ok, I'm building a GSR hatch for next years All motor pro class. I think I found most of the parts I want to use but I'm new the the all motor scene. This is what I have so far.

B series Full Race ProAM Taction bar
Skunk 2 front camber kit (Pro Series-plus)
Skunk 2 Rear camber kit (Pro Series)
FCS Stock Mount Fuel Cell
OBX ITB's
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Skunk 2 Pro Series Dual Valve springs
Skunk 2 titanium Retainers
Skunk 2 Pro Series Stage 3 cams
Skunk 2 Standard size Flat top valves
Brian Crower Stroker kit; 92mm Light weight crank; long rod (5.473") stock bore or maybe 85mm
Hytech Tri-y big tube header
Hondata S 200
ACT clutch kit (Heavy duty plate w/ 6 puck disk
AEM TRU Time cam gears
Exospeed 3 peice front end
Head port and polish
This is all I have figured out so far let me know if I'm going wrong with any of these parts and if you have any suggestions on mods I havn't listed I'll need that too or maybe alternitive parts that will find the same result but cut the price a little bit4. Thanks

 

Why OBX ITB's? "Stock bore or 85mm," is this a B20 block? God I hope not. Who did the head? Who's gonna tune it? I kinda get the vibe this is me wasting my time..

 

Why build a B to race in a class where the top dogs are running consistent mid 9's? It's going to be very hard to kill a K with that lil B....

 

The 85 was sopposed to be 84 and its a b18 block. The OBX ITB's are being put on because they are cheaper than other options. DNR is porting the head and slowmotion will probally be tuning it.

 

Not really sure what Import Face off your going to but that "consistent mid 9's" comment was just plain foolish. Here take a look at last years winners I don't see any "consistent mid 9's" going on. http://importfaceoff.net/index.htm

 

In the original post you didnt state IFO All motor pro class, you just said all motor pro
He must have taken that as Pro Stock type class

Not sure why you are choosing to cheap out on probably one of the biggest pieces to making power on an all motor setup, but i would ditch the obx itbs

 

Are you just wanting to race in the All motor pro class or actually compete?
You will need a lot more than what you have listed to compete or even win. The parts you have listed might get you around 250-260whp.
I would think 280-300 will be more of what you needed.

To get you there I would suggest the following;
Kinsler ITB's
compression ratio of 14:1-16:1
have someone port your head that has experience with heads flowing 300-325cfm, very expensive.
FIC or ID 725cc or 1000cc fuel injectors
Bisi Level X or custom cams
better tuning system S300, AEM, Motec, something with better data logging than the S200

 

Ditch the flat face valves, its been made clear unless you're going oversize, OEM valves are best.

IMO id stay away from Crower parts, nothing but bad experiences seen with them

Id go with a different header, the tri-y big tube is for bigger displacements which you're not doing

Id go s300 instead of s200

And id go with a custom IM or a different ITB setup if I were you, OBX is garbage


And after all that the k is still probaly gonna blow your doors off, might wanna look into a sneaky pete lol

 

what part of the country do you plan to race IFO amp?

 

He mentioned Slowmotion which is in Columbus OH.
I guess the race here in Columbus and maybe Cincinnati.
I'm thinking about trying to make the ALL MOTOR SPORT fields this year.

 

god epping is so long away.....

 

x2, unless i can work the storker kit and 14.1 cr together, and feel comfortable . (i know you can its just me feeling comfortable and not wanting to break and spend more money.)

 

N/A, of not the hytech big tube what header would you suggest? NAH2B I plan on making it to quite a bit of the races all over the country next year. OH 1fastgsr I'm wanting to compete which is why I was hoping that someone knew how far i should take it.

 

Depends on budget, believe best bang for buck is the RMF narrow replica. if you got deep pockets id try the bisimoto or skunk 2

 

Slowmontion and TPR are both in the ohio area. But they don't race any classes in the midwest.

 

As for a header I think you might be allowed side exit. A nice custom 4-1 side exit with a megaphone should do the trick.

If I was trying to build a 300whp plus b-series engine I would look at the following companies.
http://www.erlperformance.com/home-page for the block, the stroker kit, in the midwest
http://www.team4piston.com/index.html or http://www.cccylinderheads.com/ for the head work
http://kinsler.com/page--Honda--18.html for a ITB
http://www.teammfactory.com/ finally for the transmission

 

If you plan on competing in any all motor pro-class then you should plan to not run off the shelf cams, intake manifold, tranny, header, and so on.

To get enough power out of a B your looking at spending a lot of $$$ and that means no obx itbs....those things are garbage.

IMO competing in an all motor class requires a h2b or k series motor. You will spend more money on that b series motor in the long run.

 

And you never stated "IFO".... Looking at IFO all motor pro class it is the same as all motor street. Even with a B competing in that class is still very hard. Most of those cars will be running 10's. I know of only 2 B's in the 10's. One is a deckplated 2.3 liter B. So you think you could build a competitive B then more power to you.

 

How would any of you suggest to get 14:1-16:1cr?? And also could i compete with a k with the h2b or would it still roast it. I still like the idea of trying to get close with the B though.

 

Did you miss the last few posts,

Deck-plated B2.3L

Your lookin at a lot of cash dude

If you want you request your own class to run at IFO.
Me and some friends are thinkin of requesting a All motor street B Series class

 

custom piston for one.

 

Id have to say that anyone building a car for a heads up class is good in my books.

Starting out with a B is not necessarily a bad thing. If you are using it as a starting point. Yes it will cost a lot of money to make it run with the big dogs in the country.
However, if you are just looking at racing at IFO events in your general area, or even travelling a bit , I dont see why the Bmotor couldnt do well.

You wont need to run low 10s in order to win all of those events. You could build a nice B series and run low 11s or high 10s and still be very competitive if you stay at those events. Just know that if you ever choose to step up and come out to any other events that you will probably not be very competitive.

If you choose to stay with a B then the Brian Crower stuff is fine. A LOT of people use BC cranks and rods, whether they realize that their stuff has been rebranded or not, they use it. I would suggest sleeving the block and going to at least an 85-86mm bore. Get a custom piston that would take the compression over 14:1.
Have RLZ do a head for you. Send a PM to NAH2B , he can get you the hook up on a head from them for crazy cheap. You will not be disappointed.

What size are the OBX Itbs ?
Gearing is going to play a huge part in how you want to get down the track. What do you want to use for a transmission?

 

The OBX ITB's are 48mm. AS for the trans I have not gotten that far yet I was thinking about Liberty Dog Box transmission with Quaife (GSR ratios, B16 Quaife). Is there something else you would suggest on the trans?

 

dont think you really need a b series dog box
you should be fine with a oem trans thats fresh
depending on what power level youll be at and where your peak power is, might want to try a b16 with a 4.7/4.9 final drive and lsd

 

The itbs are going to be too small for the power you are looking for. I'm sure you can make power on them, but not what you want.

I wouldnt spend the money on a full dog box yet. Jay's suggestion of a b16 with a 4.7/4.9 is definitely your best bet for now.