ok so just woundering what are you guys using thats holding up. I have had 2 arp 2000 rod bolts stretch and snap on me causing cat failure.

so the 2000's are out what else are you guys using ??????????????

 

I think most people use the arp2000's, if you are dead set against them it seems like the next step is the 625+ bolts

 

well not dead set its just that this is the 2nd motor to have the same bolt strtch and break causing this damage thats 2 differant blocks/builds its just puzzling me the only thing i can think of is the bolts

 

Are you using the 3/8 or 5/16 bolts?

 

truthfully its what my builder used in the motors couldnt tell ya i just ripped my motor apart today and seen the head of a arp 2000 sitting in my maroso pan again along with peices of the darton sleev

 

its what ever eagle rods came with i will assume

 

This happens but shouldnt be a common problem, are you revlimiter happy or something? lol

 

625 bolts

we just lost a motor and the same was the issue, the head of 2 nuts were in the pan. They were whatever bolts that comes with the Manley "Turbo Tuffs"

Motor made 809whp.

 

rev limiter nope this time it happend in the water box

link to 625 bolts??????

 

http://www.intengineering.com/516-In...05968-1-2.html

 

Are you/whoever built your motor stretching the bolts to spec with a stretch gauge or just torquing them?

 

lol i dont build them my shop i was going to was doing it

im making a move now to just send to GE and get them done

 

Well how about you ask them, because it sounds like thats your problem if this is a re-occurring thing for you.

 

thought the same thing actually

 

If the bolts are 3/8 2000s.....I would look else where for the cause of your problem....

 

the only advantage of the +625 is they can be used over and over without stretching..

 

No.....once an rod bolt is over stretched its done........even if its new.....if I go over I throw them in the trash....I buy 16 at a time. This goes for any rod bolt

 

when it was runing how high were u reving?

 

8800 rpm's is where we set the rev lim due to stock head

 

you have other issues... Not the bolt..

 

so the front bolt on #1 in 2 totally differant builds now isnt the issue

so what can cause this issue

 

I have arp2000 in engines making 300+ per cylinder and they aren't breaking..
I can't imagine you having issues at only 150 per hole..

Most guys around here like to instantly blame the part or particular brands before realizing what the issue's are first..

 

Not sure what your issue is as it's hard to without having parts in front of you...

Do you have a clearance problem? What are they being torqued at? Are they new? Etc.. Etc..

 

well here it is i came out the water box and taptaptap so shut it down put it on the trailor

went home dropped the pan and halfe the rod bolt is in the pan along with a good chunk of darton sleeve, and block peices.

the connector was still on the rod with the other bolt still torqued to spec. I did mention it was stretched due to heat the broken bolt was bluish in color, and skinny near the break doesnt this mean heated and stetched to the point of breakage.

if im correct it sounds like i know the issue, but i may be wrong

 

It sounds like you have a oil lubrication problem on that crank journal where it stretched. It's very easy to stretch and bend metal when it is heated excessively. Could have clogged oil gully on the crank to rod oiling hole.