doin a mpfi swap with obd1 injectors
im not sure my inectors r sprayin.. car is getting gas and spark.. using obd1 injectors on the ecu side of the the harness i kut wires a1-3-5-7 and ran those to there perspective injectors also i ran the grounds to the injectors to the chase.. how do i kheck to see if the injectors are spraying???
If your injectors are not spraying, then you dont have fuel, so what do you mean by this?
chase? Do you mean Chassis? That is not right. The injectors are switched ground. Basically the ECU provides power to the + side of the injector constantly. When the injector is to fire, the ECU provides a path to ground, the injector fires, then the ground is opened, so the injectors closes. Wires A1, A3, A5, A7 are grounds. If you took the 4 wires that would have gone to the resistor box(if you were using OBD0 injectors) and grounded them to the chassis, then your injectors have no power, and therefore will not fire.
chase? Do you mean Chassis? That is not right. The injectors are switched ground. Basically the ECU provides power to the + side of the injector constantly. When the injector is to fire, the ECU provides a path to ground, the injector fires, then the ground is opened, so the injectors closes. Wires A1, A3, A5, A7 are grounds. If you took the 4 wires that would have gone to the resistor box(if you were using OBD0 injectors) and grounded them to the chassis, then your injectors have no power, and therefore will not fire.
I believe you are thinking about the way the power flows "backwards"
The 4 wires you cut and ran to the injectors are grounds. That part is correct. The problem you have is you took what you thought were ground wires and grounded them to the chassis. Those are actually the power wires and all 4 of those need to go to A13(can't remember if that's the one or not) to supply power. You can take the 4 wires(same color at each injector) and tie them all into the injector power wire (I think it is blk/yel, maybe blk/red) that goes back to the ECU.
The 4 wires you cut and ran to the injectors are grounds. That part is correct. The problem you have is you took what you thought were ground wires and grounded them to the chassis. Those are actually the power wires and all 4 of those need to go to A13(can't remember if that's the one or not) to supply power. You can take the 4 wires(same color at each injector) and tie them all into the injector power wire (I think it is blk/yel, maybe blk/red) that goes back to the ECU.
Two yellow/black wires from your old dpfi harness (they went to the injectors) solder these two to the four new mpfi obd1 injector "ground" wires.... like the Guy said above it goes to a13 at the ecu and also should be a yellow/black wire
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You dont "ground" anything to the body. The "+" are the blk/yel or blk/red wires at each injector. The "-" are the solid colored wires. The + wires need to all be connected to A13. Whether you use the 2 existing wires from the DPFI injectors or just go to one of them, doesn't really matter. The solid color wires need to go to the ECU at A1, 3, 5, 7 like you have.
Power starts at A13, flows to the injectors, then to the ECU. The ECU acts like a switch. It switches A1, A3, A5, A7 "on/off" when it needs to. When A1 is "on" the power flows from A13 through injector #1, through A1 and then to ground. When A1 is "off" no power is flowing through the injector. When no power is flowing through the injector it is not spraying fuel.
I dont know if I am confusing you more trying to explain how it works.
Bottom line: leave the sold color wires you have from A1, A3, A5, and A7 alone. Take the wire on the other side of the injector plug and wire all of them to A13. Nothing shoudl be wired to the body.
Power starts at A13, flows to the injectors, then to the ECU. The ECU acts like a switch. It switches A1, A3, A5, A7 "on/off" when it needs to. When A1 is "on" the power flows from A13 through injector #1, through A1 and then to ground. When A1 is "off" no power is flowing through the injector. When no power is flowing through the injector it is not spraying fuel.
I dont know if I am confusing you more trying to explain how it works.
Bottom line: leave the sold color wires you have from A1, A3, A5, and A7 alone. Take the wire on the other side of the injector plug and wire all of them to A13. Nothing shoudl be wired to the body.
thanks for the help no u didnt confuse me u helped me out a lot... im going to try it 2nite and post sum pics to make sure im wiring the rite ones....
You can also. connect the positive wires on the fuel injectors to a15. I belive it is switched ign power for the ecu. That's how I have always done it... or like said above a13. Will work to. gl hope it works for you
so let me give a update i tried wiring the other wires 2 a13 but still does not fire up or sounds like it wants 2.... do it matter which wire is ran to the a1,a3,a5,a7... i ran all the otha wires to a13... smh ht i think im doomed...lol
so here are the pix. i thought it was the ecu mayb so i used the pm6 and the pr4 both came out of running cars.
so here are the pix. i thought it was the ecu mayb so i used the pm6 and the pr4 both came out of running cars.
http://hondaswap.com/swap-articles/d...writeup-49557/ hope this helps. That's the right up a always use when doing this swap it explanes everything realy well and if u are using obdo ecu. U need to use obdo dizzy injectors and reistor box or car won't start.
Make sure ur the wires going to ur fuel injectors are in the right order as the link I posted above shows. And also u need obd0 injectors and. Resistor box. Obd1 injectors will not work right on a obd0 ecu could be the problem right there
Are the blue wires all connected to the blk/red that goes to A13/A15?
Whats the pic of the yellow/black wires and plug?
And yes FSRslug you are right I just did some more research and u can use. Obd1 injectors with a obd0 ecu. I remember reading some where about a year ago that you couldn't. I guess where ever I read that it was rong thanks for the insight on that...
FSRslug: the blue wires are all connected to the a13 wire which is yellow and black... unless i was lookin @ the diagram wrong. the ylw/blck plug was a clip i got a guy said i kould use it to wire all the wires to a13 without doing it ghetto like it is on the pic.. is dat rite or jus do it like i have it???
am i suppose to wire the blue wires to the ecu side or the harness side of a13????
am i suppose to wire the blue wires to the ecu side or the harness side of a13????
http://hondacrx881.tripod.com/mpfiswap.html
i use this link for the diagram on color and pin location... it says that the a13 is ylw/blk not red/blk...
i use this link for the diagram on color and pin location... it says that the a13 is ylw/blk not red/blk...
U should have not cut the wire a13 should stay uncut. U should have used a razer or wire stipper to expose the inner wire and then splice all of ur blue in with it.... so if u cut a13 put it back togeather and also add ur blue wires to it solder it up and heat shrink it or tape it up...
ok put the a13 wire back 2gether and added the other wires... the injectors arre spraying i kan smell the gas wen i try to start it.. thatnks fellow ht members for the help...
new problem now...smh the car wont start.. it cranks.. gets spark... get gas.. i hear the fuel pump prime.. the main relay clicks...the fuses are good changed all on them both engine and under dash fuse box...
what could it be any help is appreciated... do it matter that i swapped the d15b2 for a sohc zc
new problem now...smh the car wont start.. it cranks.. gets spark... get gas.. i hear the fuel pump prime.. the main relay clicks...the fuses are good changed all on them both engine and under dash fuse box...
what could it be any help is appreciated... do it matter that i swapped the d15b2 for a sohc zc
Is your timing on.... are your fuel injectors In the right order... are your sparkplug wire in the right order... do u got compression. Check all of those thing.... and do it in that order



