I didn't install my timing belt right and my SOHC zc head is ruined. (i know, i'm a moron!!)

Will a crx dx head work with the zc block and the zc intake? (what timing belt would i use? dx?)
if that doesn't work, will any of the newer d16 heads work the the zc intake?

 

Well you CAN put a SOHC Vtec head on a ZC block, i'd reckon there would be enough similarities between the two for it to go down...I wouldn't though...

Can't imagine how that motor would perform..

 

I'm not worried about performance. What about the zc intake on the vtec head? i know the head will work with the block.

I'd like to spend the least amount of money to get this car running which would be a dx head they are all over the junkyard.

 

Well I wouldn't skimp....VTEC heads and regular DX heads are very cheap from the Junkyard.

If I were you i'd have my ZC Block and if I didn't have a DOHC ZC head, i'd slap a Z6 head on there with a D16y8 Manifold and call it a day, would still perform pretty well and not cost u that much and it's pretty easy to do.

 

Essentially all the 88-95 SOHC Non-VTEC 16valve heads are the same thing (they should all be stamped PM3-X). Grab whatever DX head you can get and reuse the ZC camshaft and you'll have practically the same thing as before.

 

do i match the timing belt with the head?

 

If I'm not mistaken, you'd use the original belt for your engine (A6 equivalent). The head is the same thing so the camgear will be in the same location. Now say you wanted to switch out to different head, for example a VTEC Z6/Y8 head, then you'd want to match the belt to the head.

Anyone who knows better feel free to confirm or correct what I've just stated.

 

you're right, i don't know why i thought the dx head and the si head were different.

crx dx part number:12100-PM6-J01
crx si part number:12100-PM6-J01
civic lx part number:12100-PM6-J01

Thanks for the help! i should be able to find a head very easily. Is swapping out the cam hard?

 

Now I don't know if this was applicable but I ran into it when i was doing a mini-me swap, the NOTCHES on the Z6 Camgear varies from others, I think if you don't use the Z6 Cam gear, when lining the gear with the notches, even if u have them correct, it will still be advanced a tooth and change, even if you dial it back, it never fully aligns...I can't remember what single set up I was doing when I ran into this, but basically I used a Z6 Cam gear and It was timed perfectly...

I might still have the single set up sitting around here to verify...


As for the heads, yes, the DX and SI head is the same, USUALLy though the DX is DPFI'd so the intake manifold/injection system is different and less efficient from the Si's Muli-point set up...Well..then again that's in reference to the EF's stock single, the EG's single non-vtec is multi-point as well...

Good luck on it man..and YES keep the ZC cam gear, and NO removing and installing them isn't that tricky, DO read up on it first though..

 

That camgear/timing issue only applies to specific setups, this isn't one of them (mainly because this isn't a mini-me setup).

 

Bet, Cool...*Thumbs Up* Looks like you're a go then op!

 

thanks for all the answers, a couple more questions

When i'm in the junk yard how do you tell a good head from a bad one? turn the crank and if all the rockerarms work it's "ok"?

how the hell do you get the intake off the head? rachet doesnt fit, just use a wrench? is there a special tool?

 

It's hard to tell visually what head is in better condition than the next. If it were me, I'd find the best/cleanest (and if verifiable by cluster, lowest mileage) head. Spin the crank like you said is a good idea for checking if the rocker arms are moving as they should. Removing the intake manifold is just like removing an exhaust manifold. Their should be 4 nuts on the top of the flange and 3 on the bottom (2 on either end and one dead smack in the middle). The middle one may be tricky to get to, you can go underneath or slide a wrench in between the intake runners. Make sure you remove the head bolts in their specified order (if you don't you risk warping the head). Remove head and flip it on it's side. Now here's my trick for checking valve seats, look at the valves that are closed and spray brake cleaner into their matching ports to create a pool inside of them (doesn't need to filled all the way up, just enough to cover the valve seat). Then look at the combustion chamber side and look to see if the valve is wet around the edges. Dry is good, damp is so so (may need to repair/address valve seat), wet/pouring out means it's not sealing and may lead to a 0 compression condition on that cylinder if it's not repaired. Do this process for all valves, turning the camshaft as needed. If all looks good at this point for the junkyard head, I'd say you're good to go.

*I'd replace the valve seals before installing the head and do the brake cleaner trick one more time after the valves are all back in. If you replace the valve seals, that would be a good time to clean off the valves, I'm sure that there will be some build up on them.

 

 

You really need to check the dates of the threads you're replying to.