Like the title says i picked up a 91 CRX Si today. It has 118xxx miles on it and is mostly stock other than a Gude 2624 Cam. CAI, Header, and a Cat back. The car is also lowered about an inch and has other little insignificant mods.

I have plans for this car to turbo the d16 thats in it now when summer comes. Then while i drive it i want to built a stroker b20 that will be boosted.

I am open to suggestions of things to do to the car. I already plan on upgrading the springs and retainers even though it isnt necessary according to the cam specs. I also plan on getting an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and walbro fuel pump. Again suggestions are welcomed.

I have a few questions:

1. Between idle and 2000 rpms the car has horrible response. Any ideas why or what to check?

2. Sometimes my car redlines at 6500 rpm other time it redlines at 7200rpm. Any ideas why or what to check?

3. If i want to get the car tuned how do i get a chipped ecu or should i just convert to obd1 and get a p28?

 

how is partial throttle? like cruising does the car buck or anything? a TPS could cause it

 

2. Sometimes my car redlines at 6500 rpm other time it redlines at 7200rpm. Any ideas why or what to check?

what does that mean, doesnt car have same redline all the time?

 

Partial throttle seems to be good and the same with cruising.

Let me reword that the car hits a different rev limiter randomly. Sometimes it hits a 6500rpm rev limiter other times it hits a 7200rpm rev limiter.


Another question. I want to convert to obd1. What will i need if i use this harness http://www.phearable.net/shoppingcar...ness-p-35.html and the 02 sensor, distributor, and ecu?

 

1. The car has a different cam in it. Chances are it's a dog down low but runs good up top. That's just the nature of the beast.

2. Cold rev-limiter vs. warm rev-limiter.

3. There are a lot of tuning options with OBD-0. Find a good chip burner (stay away from ebay). Regardless, you're going to need a dyno session to do it properly.

And 118K isn't a lot of mileage on a D16. I'd think twice before I rip out that motor, honestly. But, why would you turbo it just to put a different motor in it? You seriously can't wait a few months until another motor is built? Seems like a complete waste of time/money.

And honestly, the questions you asked above are pretty simple and most guys who know Hondas have this knowledge. Who is going to do all of your work?

 

Im not 100% on the cold rev-limiter vs the warm rev limiter. Because it does it randomly and the car is alway at operating temp before it gets any where above 5k.

The reason i would turbo the d16 is because i know where there is a good turbo kit for it and i can get it for basically free or really cheap. That and the fact i would run the d16 until it failed and then install the other engine. Also a friend of mine who has a sick turbo teggy said when i go to a b series all i need to do is get the manifold for a b series and a few other odds and ends the rest of the stuff would bolt right up.

I do all my own work but this is my first d-series honda. I will admit i dont know a lot about hondas because im a mustang and rx-7 guy but cars in general i can handle.

 

The ECU controls your rev limiter and those are the cold vs warm rpm specs. So either something is telling your ecu to go into cold mode or your ecu itself is screwed up.

You sure no one modded your ECU? You should probably check if you haven't.

And Honestly, not sure you're going to be satisfied with a 'fast' Honda, especially coming from RWD cars. Hondas are light and they handle extremely well. If you don't appreciate those two facts, then no amount of straight-line speed is going to make you happy in that car.

 

I am not a straight line guy at all. Im an auto-x and road racing guy. My mustang is a road race car and the rx-7 is a drift/auto-x car.

My goal for the crx is to have a quick, decent looking DD that i can take to some auto-x events. The reason i got a crx is because they handle well and are very light.

 

Ok, so instead of doing something crazy with the motor that probably won't really make the car any faster around the autox course, why not put your effort into suspension and wheels/tires that will provide a decent decrease in timeslips?

The A6 is almost a perfect autox motor in that chassis. It's extremely light and it makes reasonable power with decent torque (and has a very favorable 2nd gear with that tranny).

 

Already ordered Skunk 2 Pro C coilovers, control arms, camber kits, Password JDM front and rear 3 point strut bars, lower arm bar, and a full set of poly bushings. I am also looking for some lighter rims to mount my falken tires to. As for tires i have 4 brand new falken azenis rt-615 in 205/50/15 size.

The car already has a full set of sway bars as well when i bought it.

Almost forgot to mention i also ordered a ACT Street/Strip Clutch and a lighter flywheel.

 

You've already screwed yourself on classing anyways (with those mods), so in reality motor choice matters very little.

And if you can send back those Junk2 coilovers, I would. Get a decent suspension, not an over-hyped piece of crap coilover.

 

come to think of it in the past I had 2 distributors one time and changed to the other one and it never had a redline it would go as high as you could take it in rpms..... saying that maybe try a friends distributor. I thought it was a fluke but a good budy of mine with a crx had the same thing happen to him with a distributor he had idk something to try

 

I am not too worried about classing. The few auto-x that i run have no classing. Its just for a few local car clubs. Whats so bad about skunk 2 coilovers and what do you suggest i buy?

As for a obd1 ecu should i get a chipped p28 or a hondata s300?

 

Skunk2 coilovers are crap. They're about on the same level with the Megans and the other ebay crap, but Skunk2 is just trying to captialize on their name as there is nothing quality about them.

You should really look at a Koni/Ground Control setup. Superior shock with a kit that can be customized to your needs. And there is plenty of room to grow should you decide to do something else with the car.

Shocks make a suspension, and most sub $1000 coilovers have extremely poor shocks on them because you're paying for the aluminum 'bling' and adjustability.

 

I called and took the skunk 2 coiovers off the order this mornin.

What do you think about BC Racing Coilovers or H&R coilovers?

I have heard great things about the Koni/Ground control setup but i really would like to get a set of full coilovers. Price isnt too much of an issues but at the same time i dont want to buy some $4500 suspension.

 

Good (non) choice on the skunk.

I'd get H&R before I got buddy club. H&R = bilstein shocks. Buddy club = who knows. BC were good at first, but they've slipped a lot.

And GC/Koni are full coilovers. Don't buy into the hype that you need some fancy 1-piece unit.

 

With the below cam specs i should have an adjustable cam gear correct?

Advertise Duration: Int=241 / Exh=228
Duration @ .050: Int=NA / Exh=NA
Lobe Separation: NA
Gross lift: 415/421

If i didnt have one would that cause my car to run like i described above?

I plan on buying one asap either way.

Also when i said BC Racing i meant this place http://www.bcracing-na.com/

 

hey, really, get koni sport shocks with ground control sleeves.
not only are they the best coilovers for the money, they're extremely easy to set up,
the shocks are adjustable, and they're incredibly reasonable to rebuild if you still have them in 10 years.
AND chances are they are cheaper than the "all in one" kits that major manufactures sell anyway.
and did i mention they are far superior as well?

i've had koni shocks before and stand behind them completely.
i also have a 91 crx si, and i'm building it solely for autox this winter.
the crx has won plenty of of national championships.
if you want tips for spring rates and sway bars, i can help you there the best i can.
but it's a harsh setup for the street especially for DD.
either way, with the ground control coilovers, you get to pick your own spring rates too,
ANOTHER luxury that isn't offered by other major coil over salesmen.

anyway, with the clutch/flywheel, if you ever decide to do scca events, you will be in SP or SM (depending on the engine) and with falken street tires, you will not be competitive classing wise... but if you're not worried about classing, it doesn't matter anyway.

but i can completely see the temptation of boosting a car that weighs around 2000 lbs.
if you do decide to keep the stock d16, check out this website, they have a 100$ ecu, tuned for specific parts, header, intake... simple bolt ons, but i've seen people make 120 whp from the d16 with just intake, header, chip, and an oem rebuild lol
www.redshiftmotorsports.com >online store

 

I will more than like go with a ground control setup from these recommendations.

As for that ecu I will probably take a drive to their shop since its only like 30 min from my house

 

I figured out why the car wasn't running as well. I did a full distributor overhaul and it runs a little better. When i tried to retime it I found the timing is a good ways off even with the distributor full advanced.

Also i will be going with ground control but i will most likely reuse the shocks i have now which are Tokico Illumina struts which means they are adjustable.

 

Reset the mechanical timing. Turns out the shop that did the cam timed it for a hf/dx not an si so it was about 3 teeth off from where it needed to be. I reset it to SI specs and the car is much faster and pulls much harder. Tomorrow i will play with my ignition timing.

 

here are some pics for everyone as well

 

the red crx's really need the black around the bottem, fix that and it would look much nicer

 

It does have black around the bottom unless you are talking about the lip

 

You just bought this off craigslist? I was going to look at this car haha. Ended up driving down Rehoboth and found an original owned 88 Si. Good luck with the car.