NC NHBP Integra Type R #318, Bone Stock, Clean Title, $10500 OBO
PRICE DROP
2001 NHBP ITR #318 $9,500 OBO - NC (no trades or shipping, especially to CA)
has a few panels affected by bubbling in which I was quoted $425 to fix. So if this is a problem then please don't read.
The lowdown
-115k
-clean title
-HAS badge
-bone stock
-has the normal front end
-fresh rebuild by a highly trusted Acura Master Tech 3,000 miles ago. flawless.
-no wire tuck
-no hellaflush
-no illest stickers
-not owned by an idiot teenager
-matching panels
-matching drivetrain numbers
-bone stock (minus exedy oem clutch, viper 5901 alarm, DK dizzy)
Why am I selling? I'm not really that hellbent on selling it to be honest, I'm about to send it off for body work and paint and figured it couldn't hurt to post it up beforehand. This is my favorite itr to drive out of all 3 that I've owned and I'm sure a few members on here can vouch that I've said this. It's a great car, reliable, no bullshit. I don't beat on it since my 98 gets all of that on track. But I have two of the same car and wouldn't mind getting an m3 again.
The rebuild was just completed 3k ago by a highly trusted Acura Master Tech that I know. I have all of part receipts in the center console still. It was pretty much a basic bottom end rebuild with all wear items replaced and all questionable transmission bearings. This was done in mind to keep it reliable for another 100k, no worrying about oil burning, timing belts, etc.
The Viper alarm was installed by a highly reputable honda installer, he goes by vegaS10 on here. He's a personal friend of mine and you'll never have to worry about any bullshit. It's a 5901 that has a 1 mile paging radius with a backup battery, tilt sensors, hood sensors, etc... So that means if somebody tries to pop your hood, tamper or put it on a flatbed if you're within a mile the keypad will go nuts and you can spring up in ****ing commando mode, kill the thieves and go down as an internet hero right before you go to jail.
If you can't write at least at an 8th grade level then please don't inquire on purchasing either, I will not let this car go to a moron.


this is the worst panel, the other isn't **** in comparison. The body guy suggested actually cutting all of this out and welding in a cut from another integra (in which I have a local lead on that cut already) so it will be perfect (this is a normal body shop procedure for things like this) but all other spots aren't serious enough to require such.

and here's the passenger side

I took some time out today to snap off some new pictures of things I haven't previously done

Here's the engine bay, K20 swap and wiretuck complete, ready for street racing.

Since I know you scholars are into literature here's a few pictures of the books... in addition pay close attention to the reclinable red recaros and cusco rollcage, ready for street racing
2001 NHBP ITR #318 $9,500 OBO - NC (no trades or shipping, especially to CA)
has a few panels affected by bubbling in which I was quoted $425 to fix. So if this is a problem then please don't read.
The lowdown
-115k
-clean title
-HAS badge
-bone stock
-has the normal front end
-fresh rebuild by a highly trusted Acura Master Tech 3,000 miles ago. flawless.
-no wire tuck
-no hellaflush
-no illest stickers
-not owned by an idiot teenager
-matching panels
-matching drivetrain numbers
-bone stock (minus exedy oem clutch, viper 5901 alarm, DK dizzy)
Why am I selling? I'm not really that hellbent on selling it to be honest, I'm about to send it off for body work and paint and figured it couldn't hurt to post it up beforehand. This is my favorite itr to drive out of all 3 that I've owned and I'm sure a few members on here can vouch that I've said this. It's a great car, reliable, no bullshit. I don't beat on it since my 98 gets all of that on track. But I have two of the same car and wouldn't mind getting an m3 again.
The rebuild was just completed 3k ago by a highly trusted Acura Master Tech that I know. I have all of part receipts in the center console still. It was pretty much a basic bottom end rebuild with all wear items replaced and all questionable transmission bearings. This was done in mind to keep it reliable for another 100k, no worrying about oil burning, timing belts, etc.
The Viper alarm was installed by a highly reputable honda installer, he goes by vegaS10 on here. He's a personal friend of mine and you'll never have to worry about any bullshit. It's a 5901 that has a 1 mile paging radius with a backup battery, tilt sensors, hood sensors, etc... So that means if somebody tries to pop your hood, tamper or put it on a flatbed if you're within a mile the keypad will go nuts and you can spring up in ****ing commando mode, kill the thieves and go down as an internet hero right before you go to jail.
If you can't write at least at an 8th grade level then please don't inquire on purchasing either, I will not let this car go to a moron.


this is the worst panel, the other isn't **** in comparison. The body guy suggested actually cutting all of this out and welding in a cut from another integra (in which I have a local lead on that cut already) so it will be perfect (this is a normal body shop procedure for things like this) but all other spots aren't serious enough to require such.

and here's the passenger side

I took some time out today to snap off some new pictures of things I haven't previously done

Here's the engine bay, K20 swap and wiretuck complete, ready for street racing.

Since I know you scholars are into literature here's a few pictures of the books... in addition pay close attention to the reclinable red recaros and cusco rollcage, ready for street racing
Last edited by itrSteez; Jan 15, 2011 at 07:06 AM.
My body guy quoted me $425 to correct before the actual respray. He said everything can be easily corrected without panel replacement, however on the drivers side what he was going to do was cut around the wheel arch and weld in the arch on the outer/inner panels from another integra cut. I have this cut sourced locally. He said that nothing is that bad though and easily fixable.
The shame of it is that for the sake of selling I should of done the body stuff instead of the oem rebuild, it would have been cheaper and made it marketable. Nobody is really phased on having an ITR that drives perfect and doesn't burn a drop of oil, but a little typical hondarot is the end of world
Either way it's a rock solid car. To have a clean title, matching numbers & a badge are all big deal items for me.
Here's a vouch that alan (the alarm installer) left over at my carolinahondas FS post, he has the same username on H-T as well.
The shame of it is that for the sake of selling I should of done the body stuff instead of the oem rebuild, it would have been cheaper and made it marketable. Nobody is really phased on having an ITR that drives perfect and doesn't burn a drop of oil, but a little typical hondarot is the end of world

Either way it's a rock solid car. To have a clean title, matching numbers & a badge are all big deal items for me.
Here's a vouch that alan (the alarm installer) left over at my carolinahondas FS post, he has the same username on H-T as well.
Originally Posted by VegaS10
I will vouche for Steve all day. This is a very solid car, and I have driven it a few times, including once to High Point. This car has no CELs, nothing stupid, and is pretty much as OEM as you can get.
Whoever gets this will not be disappointed!
Whoever gets this will not be disappointed!
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Guess you won't be selling it on this site then
. That is a really good cost estimate on your rust repair. I've run across alot of body shops that are more concerned about getting their insurance work in and out to even both with rust repair. They'll high ball the **** out their estimate.
GLWS
. That is a really good cost estimate on your rust repair. I've run across alot of body shops that are more concerned about getting their insurance work in and out to even both with rust repair. They'll high ball the **** out their estimate.GLWS
Guess you won't be selling it on this site then
. That is a really good cost estimate on your rust repair. I've run across alot of body shops that are more concerned about getting their insurance work in and out to even both with rust repair. They'll high ball the **** out their estimate.
GLWS
. That is a really good cost estimate on your rust repair. I've run across alot of body shops that are more concerned about getting their insurance work in and out to even both with rust repair. They'll high ball the **** out their estimate.GLWS

I would be more than willing to hook anybody up with him post-sale, I'm pretty certain the same pricing would apply.
Best for sale thread I have seen in a while. I thought I was reading something that I would have written. I am glad there are a few of us left on here! GLWS
-HAS badge
-bone stock
-has the normal front end
-no wire tuck
-no hellaflush
-no illest stickers
-not owned by an idiot teenager




