92 manual transmission swap..
hi,im currently trying to finish up on my first,on my own, honda accord manual swap and i got caught up in a problem.i think most guys had this problem before.my concern is about the tranny braket thats welded to chassis that would only fit a automatic tranny only.i had a body man from a shop and have a look at it.he told me what he's going to do is modify that same automatic tranny bracket so it would fit my manual tranny..and so i taught why not just remove the auto tranny braket,shave n prep the surface and weld in the original manual tranny braket..so he is charging me $250 if he's going to do he's own way,he even say if i would to choose the other way,it could charge me even higher..sucks
attention:to those who have completed there manual swap,could you give me some advise?much thanks in advance and advance merry Christmas to you.lol
attention:to those who have completed there manual swap,could you give me some advise?much thanks in advance and advance merry Christmas to you.lol
This is from when I did my 96 last summer. Hope it helps.
Source:
http://www.hondasociety.com/board/sh...111635&page=11
Auto Engine Mount Modification
Okay so if you have researched the manual swap enough you guys will know by now that you must either drill a hole in the auto mount or have a manual mount welded onto your chassis. If you use the original hole on the automatic mount, the engine will sit askew and you will be more prone to axle breakage.
To cure this, there is a dimple on the automatic mount that most people use as a guide to drill their new hole to mount the motor and transmission.
Here in this post I will show you guys how to modify your mount step by step to alleviate this situation.
here is your mount. the first thing that we must do is remove that 19mm nut that was welded onto the mount from the factory.

To remove that nut, you must get a breaker bar with a 1/2" drive.

Now find a 19mm 1/2" socket.

with little force, the welds on the nut should just shear off like nothing.

alright so here is what we have to work with.

the dimple above the original hole is the exact spot that we are going to drill the hole. There is much speculation about the exact position of where the hole should be, but I have spoken with a few people (skaterdudz02 and many others) that have used this dimple as the template for drilling the hole and they have had no problems thus far.

to drill the new hole I used four drill bits to make a 1/2" hole in the mount.
I started with the 13/64", then the 5/16", then the 3/8", and lastly the 1/2" bit. The diameter of the bolt is 1/2", therefore this will be the diameter of the hole we will be making.

so now get to drillin' like youre sarah palin! :lmfao:

I slid the a bolt from one of the other mounts in the original hole to use as a reference to keep the bit as aligned to the original hole as possible.

and some more drilling..

and voila! we are done! :thumbsup:


I used the original nut.

the alignment is really close to the original. pretty good for eyeballin it. :D


I hope this helped you guys! Now go do yours!
Okay so if you have researched the manual swap enough you guys will know by now that you must either drill a hole in the auto mount or have a manual mount welded onto your chassis. If you use the original hole on the automatic mount, the engine will sit askew and you will be more prone to axle breakage.
To cure this, there is a dimple on the automatic mount that most people use as a guide to drill their new hole to mount the motor and transmission.
Here in this post I will show you guys how to modify your mount step by step to alleviate this situation.
here is your mount. the first thing that we must do is remove that 19mm nut that was welded onto the mount from the factory.

To remove that nut, you must get a breaker bar with a 1/2" drive.

Now find a 19mm 1/2" socket.

with little force, the welds on the nut should just shear off like nothing.

alright so here is what we have to work with.

the dimple above the original hole is the exact spot that we are going to drill the hole. There is much speculation about the exact position of where the hole should be, but I have spoken with a few people (skaterdudz02 and many others) that have used this dimple as the template for drilling the hole and they have had no problems thus far.

to drill the new hole I used four drill bits to make a 1/2" hole in the mount.
I started with the 13/64", then the 5/16", then the 3/8", and lastly the 1/2" bit. The diameter of the bolt is 1/2", therefore this will be the diameter of the hole we will be making.

so now get to drillin' like youre sarah palin! :lmfao:

I slid the a bolt from one of the other mounts in the original hole to use as a reference to keep the bit as aligned to the original hole as possible.

and some more drilling..

and voila! we are done! :thumbsup:


I used the original nut.

the alignment is really close to the original. pretty good for eyeballin it. :D


I hope this helped you guys! Now go do yours!
http://www.hondasociety.com/board/sh...111635&page=11
I did a manual swap on a 94 accord and the drilling process is the same. It appears that all manual swaps on 90-97 Accords require this same drilling, and bolt relocation. The higher dimple is the correct height and is located in the correct position on the transverse plane. Though there is much speculation, it is my belief that the second layer of sheet metal has dimples for different applications, the higher and further out hole being for manual transmissions. I never had any problems but keep in mind that the three mounting holes on the bracket are slotted and they should be left slightly loose for alignment purposes, then tightened last.
your info was very helpful but theres just one problem..your tranny bracket looks way different from my own,thats why i could modified mine..if you have an email address i could send you some pictures of my accord project and i could show you what i mean..thanks
note:i tried to follow your way but my bracket does not have that dimple.its a different type of bracket.
note:i tried to follow your way but my bracket does not have that dimple.its a different type of bracket.
Did you ask people on CB7 tuner?
You can upload pictures on photobucket and copy/paste the IMG here.
You can also upload your pic to your facebook. Then right click copy image location. The come here and press the image icon with a yellow sky and some mountains. It the pop up window right click and paste.
You can upload pictures on photobucket and copy/paste the IMG here.
You can also upload your pic to your facebook. Then right click copy image location. The come here and press the image icon with a yellow sky and some mountains. It the pop up window right click and paste.
ok,sori for the trouble.here are the links to my photos of the project and my only problem with it.its a 1992 cb7 (used to be a automatic).. manual swap in the process.tranny came from my 1990 cb7.


http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...00001375416692
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...00001375416692
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...00001375416692
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...00001375416692
so sori again if its too much to ask,but here you go..
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...00001375416692
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...00001375416692
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...00001375416692
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...00001375416692
so sori again if its too much to ask,but here you go..
Hm. I dont know what I would do.. I dont think you should drill because you wont have enough metal left on the mounting surface to keep it stable..
I would ask someone on CB7tuner.com that has done it before and see what they did.
I would ask someone on CB7tuner.com that has done it before and see what they did.
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yeah,,so i think cut and welding the original manual bracket would be my best choice..damn todays is the day i schedule for my car to do the cut and weld.but i think ima back out on this one.$250 is way to much.i'l look somewhere else.
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AlexPkring
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Mar 2, 2003 06:56 AM




