" hey man " build thread !
He guys i been building this b20vtec for 6 months now . i feel inlove with these motors after reading tons of pages on here . heres my build . comments are welcome .
Head:
GSR head
3 angel valve job
type-r valves
type-retainers
type-r springs
99 type-r cams
hondata IM gasket
victor X manifold
70mm BBK tb
AEM fuel rail
AEM FPR
RC 440 injectors
Block:
B20b block
it was honed , hot tanked , full balanced b20 crank
stock rods
ARP rod bolts
ACL race bearing " mains , thrust , and rod bearings "
RS machine pistons
ITR water pump \ ITR oil pump
255 walboro fuel pump
hondata s300 . getting tuned in 3 weeks . looking for 220 to the wheels .
i didnt post a header cas thats the last thing that im purching witch i hope is tomorow if i make up my mind . its either between the RMF narrow 4-1 or a big tube header if i can find one for 300 . if u guys can give me some advice in witch header ill appreciate it thanks
Head:
GSR head
3 angel valve job
type-r valves
type-retainers
type-r springs
99 type-r cams
hondata IM gasket
victor X manifold
70mm BBK tb
AEM fuel rail
AEM FPR
RC 440 injectors
Block:
B20b block
it was honed , hot tanked , full balanced b20 crank
stock rods
ARP rod bolts
ACL race bearing " mains , thrust , and rod bearings "
RS machine pistons
ITR water pump \ ITR oil pump
255 walboro fuel pump
hondata s300 . getting tuned in 3 weeks . looking for 220 to the wheels .
i didnt post a header cas thats the last thing that im purching witch i hope is tomorow if i make up my mind . its either between the RMF narrow 4-1 or a big tube header if i can find one for 300 . if u guys can give me some advice in witch header ill appreciate it thanks
For 220whp, the Type R cams won't do it. Look to another company with a more aggressive profile. You don't need a Fuel Rail or an FPR either. Put those up for sale. Use the money for a better valvetrain, and you can keep the Type R retainers.
Make sure those Rods are straight and cant take the power (Recondition them if you can). Do that before you have the rod bolts inserted so you don't pay for that twice
Make sure those Rods are straight and cant take the power (Recondition them if you can). Do that before you have the rod bolts inserted so you don't pay for that twice
yea they where notched ??? my machinest told me i shouldnt have any promblems with that and there a kid local from where i live that put down 224 at 154 fpt with type-r cams . tune is key
I'm aware of tuning. but that's just skewed. Just be careful. A lot of dynos are configured to give higher numbers than given. Ask anyone else on here if their Type Rs made 224, and more than likely they will speak in the negative. Plus even 2.0 litres can barely make a peak torque of 154ft/lbs. so unless he's gone to 2.2 or so, again, that sounds very skewed.
Outside of all that.... look towards your good header, and good compression, and you're good to go.
Outside of all that.... look towards your good header, and good compression, and you're good to go.
yea i know them numbers sound high but go on the thread called (post your stock sleeve b20vtec ) people are putting down 190 with stock gsr cames with just rs machine pistons with a tune ..... so its possible , now for a header what u think i should go with the hytech or the rmf ????
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yea i know them numbers sound high but go on the thread called (post your stock sleeve b20vtec ) people are putting down 190 with stock gsr cames with just rs machine pistons with a tune ..... so its possible , now for a header what u think i should go with the hytech or the rmf ????
ive tuned a few b20vtecs in my day with type-r cams
they will make around 200whp with supporting mods.
I have ITR cams in my 1.8ltr. I'm at 190whp/136tq on a DynoJet right now and looking to get closer to 200 very soon.
220 is a bit high for your target but it could be possible. My head has been PnP you may want to have something done on your head as well.
I have seen other 1.8ltr ITR cam'd motors make 201 and 209 and many in the 190-195 range.
As for other suggetstions.
NO need for the Victor X manifold. ITR cams don't make power in the power range of that manifold and you will lose a bunch down low.
A Performer X would be better or a modified GSR manifold that flows 300cfm. Mine is on the way.
Replace those RC injectors with FIC injectors to get a bit more power.
If you don't mind me asking why the Victor X manifold? I have been doing a bunch of research on Manifolds over the past year and am curious why.
220 is a bit high for your target but it could be possible. My head has been PnP you may want to have something done on your head as well.
I have seen other 1.8ltr ITR cam'd motors make 201 and 209 and many in the 190-195 range.
As for other suggetstions.
NO need for the Victor X manifold. ITR cams don't make power in the power range of that manifold and you will lose a bunch down low.
A Performer X would be better or a modified GSR manifold that flows 300cfm. Mine is on the way.
Replace those RC injectors with FIC injectors to get a bit more power.
If you don't mind me asking why the Victor X manifold? I have been doing a bunch of research on Manifolds over the past year and am curious why.
welll im going to be buying s2s2 cams sooon so i just bought that victor x so i dont got to go through the trouble of finding one again . ok so why are people putting down 190 to the wheels on stock gsr cams with a built bottum ???
Your going to need a fully ported and polished head, not just a 3 angle job, to even sniff 200+whp on ITR cams. Headwork dictates your overall power potential, especially in an NA motor. That type of power on those cams is by no means easy to do, and I still wanna call BS til I see a dyno graph or some sort of proof.
IMO the victor x should not be used in NA apps UNLESS you are running an all out build like a 85+mm stroked 14:1 CR motor and going after 250+whp, or Nitrous apps. On all other setups its basically a waste and will cause them to fall on their face especially in the low RPM range.
everyone has there own opinion on everyones builds , just like theres always someone who has better than u . but i seen it in person , i asked him if i can post it and he dont let so nutthin i can do . i talk to my tunner and he says i should deff break 210 for a deffinate !
he aint some " street tuner " or a back yard tunner . im paying big bucks and hes been in the game for a long time and know what hes talking about
he aint some " street tuner " or a back yard tunner . im paying big bucks and hes been in the game for a long time and know what hes talking about
Dyno #'s dont really mean ****..
track #'s are what really tell you the true power..
i've seen 220 + builds on one dyno running like high 13's at the track.
and 190whp builds dyno'd somewhere else lacing them in the 12's..'
lots of factors affect the dyno #'s..
use track #'s not Dyno #'s...
track #'s are what really tell you the true power..
i've seen 220 + builds on one dyno running like high 13's at the track.
and 190whp builds dyno'd somewhere else lacing them in the 12's..'
lots of factors affect the dyno #'s..
use track #'s not Dyno #'s...
everyone has there own opinion on everyones builds , just like theres always someone who has better than u . but i seen it in person , i asked him if i can post it and he dont let so nutthin i can do . i talk to my tunner and he says i should deff break 210 for a deffinate !
he aint some " street tuner " or a back yard tunner . im paying big bucks and hes been in the game for a long time and know what hes talking about
he aint some " street tuner " or a back yard tunner . im paying big bucks and hes been in the game for a long time and know what hes talking about
Dyno #'s dont really mean ****..
track #'s are what really tell you the true power..
i've seen 220 + builds on one dyno running like high 13's at the track.
and 190whp builds dyno'd somewhere else lacing them in the 12's..'
lots of factors affect the dyno #'s..
use track #'s not Dyno #'s...
track #'s are what really tell you the true power..
i've seen 220 + builds on one dyno running like high 13's at the track.
and 190whp builds dyno'd somewhere else lacing them in the 12's..'
lots of factors affect the dyno #'s..
use track #'s not Dyno #'s...
My 190whp is not in the 12's but mid 13's in a full interior 1.8ltr GSR on street tires is really nice. Did I mention the dyno I go to does read low when compared to track times and the other dynojets in the area.
Ima be getting it tuned either the 20th or the 21st of this month . Reminder this swap is in a 94 dx civic hatch , no power steering , no a.c . Its gutted aswel . All I want out of it is 210 . All I do care is about my track times . And mid session next year ima be buying somme skunk 2 stafe 2 cams , what sucks is that ima have to changew the valve springs and retainers -_- ..
U guys think I could use s2s1 cams on my type-r valve tran ??? Prob not
U guys think I could use s2s1 cams on my type-r valve tran ??? Prob not
oem cams, oem valvetrain
Aftermarket cams , Aftermarket valvetrain.. dont see whats so hard
your on a 2.0liter setup..Air flow comes into play..
performerX will be fine if your going to limit your cam selection...but i wouldn't recommend it..
a victorX would be a ideal starting point you are a 2.0 liter.
Aftermarket cams , Aftermarket valvetrain.. dont see whats so hard
your on a 2.0liter setup..Air flow comes into play..
performerX will be fine if your going to limit your cam selection...but i wouldn't recommend it..
a victorX would be a ideal starting point you are a 2.0 liter.
oem cams, oem valvetrain
Aftermarket cams , Aftermarket valvetrain.. dont see whats so hard
your on a 2.0liter setup..Air flow comes into play..
performerX will be fine if your going to limit your cam selection...but i wouldn't recommend it..
a victorX would be a ideal starting point you are a 2.0 liter.
Aftermarket cams , Aftermarket valvetrain.. dont see whats so hard
your on a 2.0liter setup..Air flow comes into play..
performerX will be fine if your going to limit your cam selection...but i wouldn't recommend it..
a victorX would be a ideal starting point you are a 2.0 liter.
Why a turbo manifold over a longer runner all motor manifold........one guy says this...the other that. I just placed an order for a b16 performer x for my b20v 84.5x89 at around 13-13.5ish CR with tunner 2 cams and fully PNP b16 head will be tuned on aem ems and id1000cc on e85. What do you mean limit you cam selection..? So basicaly i wont make the power i want. Im not gonna rev to 9.5k. Ima have a safe rev limit set to 8.5k.
Thanks
Hey op sorry to tread jack youre tread. It would be pointless to start another tread.
Why a turbo manifold over a longer runner all motor manifold........one guy says this...the other that. I just placed an order for a b16 performer x for my b20v 84.5x89 at around 13-13.5ish CR with tunner 2 cams and fully PNP b16 head will be tuned on aem ems and id1000cc on e85. What do you mean limit you cam selection..? So basicaly i wont make the power i want. Im not gonna rev to 9.5k. Ima have a safe rev limit set to 8.5k.
Thanks
Hey op sorry to tread jack youre tread. It would be pointless to start another tread.
Thanks
Hey op sorry to tread jack youre tread. It would be pointless to start another tread.
I had a performerX on my b20vtec, same compression as yours with s2s2's, fell flat on its face after 8500.. also ran good times of 104-106mph. Swapped out for a victor and low and behold i was trapping 109-110mph.
Your limited by the cams you select. You build your motor around your cam profile..lift,duration. Not build your motor, then throw a set of cams in there.
You go with what you want, i went with a str8 line car because i like to drag race, autoXing isn't for me.. had i went with a autoX setup, yes i would have stuck with a performerX manifold.. Victorx manifolds are made for 2.0+ liter engines. That have good flowing heads, exhaust systems and big cams..
In the most simplest form the narrower the runner the higher the velocity which in turn allows better filling of the cylinders at lower rpms, thus producing more power lower in the power band. Also, the narrower the runner the maximum air flow is reduced (if you could imagine breathing through a straw.)
So, which just this basic knowledge of IM tuning you could see how a after market IM with fatter runners would cause you to "lose power", albeit relatively speaking. You are essentially dropping you power numbers in the low to mid range to achieve higher power in the top rpm range. So if you cannot benefit from a higher rpm range you are not benefiting from a fatter runner IM.
Also, note that this spring mass theory doesnt apply to ITB systems because the they dont have a mass like a plenum to "spring" off of
Gearing will also play a roll as well, when you shift out are you staying in your peak torque.. ya, i'm reving to mid upper 9 rpm range, but when i shift out, i'm falling back into mid 7rpms.. basically the Gspot of the victorx manifold and my cams..my car pulls up to 10k, probably higher if i'd let it.. but there's no need, gearing isn't made for it, NOT that my motor couldn't handle it.
And this line of thinking is what separates "engine builders" from "tuners" , "winners" from "losers".... Sure you may possibly see some small gains by bolting on random "performance" parts, but you will never be utilizing the full potential of the engine. Most marketed performance parts are just like any other retail product - marketed hype.
So cliffs?
Good flowing motor = bigger manifold requires
Stock flowing motor, mildly built = smaller plenum, longer runners required.
A skunk2 pro series manifold modded would also be another good choice to go with, other then that, endyn's custom manifold is the only other choice i'd look at.
There's still alot to learn.. even myself included.. but because 100000x people are running the victorX on their turbo setups doesn't make it a turbo manifold, it just means it works well on their setup..




