GS-R rod knock repairable?
Is it worth the money or even possible to repair an engine with a knock in it?
The car hasn't been driven since it was diagnosed with a knock. If possible I'd rather fix, than replace and engine.
If repairable what types of figures am I looking at, hundreds or thousands in repair work?
Thanks for any and all advice.
The car hasn't been driven since it was diagnosed with a knock. If possible I'd rather fix, than replace and engine.
If repairable what types of figures am I looking at, hundreds or thousands in repair work?
Thanks for any and all advice.
Yes draining the oil after you hear the knock is just to check how much metal is already shaved. basically to determine how much damage is done.
How did you find out that its a rod knock in the first place? Did you miss shift or something?
Also try a compression test and leak down test as well.
How did you find out that its a rod knock in the first place? Did you miss shift or something?
Also try a compression test and leak down test as well.
Yes draining the oil after you hear the knock is just to check how much metal is already shaved. basically to determine how much damage is done.
How did you find out that its a rod knock in the first place? Did you miss shift or something?
Also try a compression test and leak down test as well.
How did you find out that its a rod knock in the first place? Did you miss shift or something?
Also try a compression test and leak down test as well.
I had no idea the knock was my issue(i had it towed to them for a main shaft bearing). I figure the leak down test would be my best bet, because from what I gathered about doing a compression test, is that the engine must be at the normal operating temperature or am I incorrect?
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new rod/main bearings are not hard to put in man, you can do it with the engine in the car just like the Omniman DVD B series build. It's not particularly difficult either if you do some research and figure it out, certainly cheaper/easier than paying $1k for another short block and then all the hassle or cost of pulling the motor out.
You can always try putting in thicker oil too?
You can always try putting in thicker oil too?
If theres metal shavings then there is more damage then expected and just replacing rod and main bearings is just a waste of money and time. Most likely it would need to be checked for any scarring or damages to other components
Assuming I luck out and there are no metal shavings found once the oil is drained, would my next possible step be to just replace the rods and main bearings? or would a more in-depth inspection be recommended?
new rod/main bearings are not hard to put in man, you can do it with the engine in the car just like the Omniman DVD B series build. It's not particularly difficult either if you do some research and figure it out, certainly cheaper/easier than paying $1k for another short block and then all the hassle or cost of pulling the motor out.
You can always try putting in thicker oil too?
You can always try putting in thicker oil too?
Well it depends on you from that point. Me I would rebuild the whole thing once and call it good instead of fixing a minor thing and a few weeks or months down the road end up replacing something again. Its your choice you may luck out with just replacing what you can visibly see with the oil pan off.
Pull the vtec solenoid off and check the mesh gasket to see if you have a buildup of shavings. That will ultimately tell you what you need to do. This happen to my block, and I rebuilt the whole thing. Once shaving gets into head everything needs to be torn down and cleaned out!......Just my opinion
Well it depends on you from that point. Me I would rebuild the whole thing once and call it good instead of fixing a minor thing and a few weeks or months down the road end up replacing something again. Its your choice you may luck out with just replacing what you can visibly see with the oil pan off.
Pull the vtec solenoid off and check the mesh gasket to see if you have a buildup of shavings. That will ultimately tell you what you need to do. This happen to my block, and I rebuilt the whole thing. Once shaving gets into head everything needs to be torn down and cleaned out!......Just my opinion
Yup, they asked for $6300. Only now I'm not sure what the issue is anymore because I called the shop that diagnosed it and I'm getting the run around again. The guy says he has no clue what's wrong with it and he now thinks the noise is coming from the head.
Shitty shop that is. Take it somewhere else. And $6300 just to rebuild a bottom block at Acura. You might as well buy an ITR motor from Hmotors for half that price.
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d17a1n00b
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Oct 2, 2009 08:58 AM




