I'm paying off a swap right now in my 94 EX, next up after that comes full suspension. Swap is going to be an H2B with the Kaizenspeed Balanceshaft Eliminator kit, their aluminum oilpan, QSD H2B kit, generic dual core radiator, manual tensioner, USDM type R tranny and otherwise stock so I can pass BAR. USDM H22A1 motor, OBD1 out of the gate makes it a lot easier for BAR. Clutchmasters stage 2 or 4(yet undecided) and H2B flywheel. Having motor and tranny looked through and all the bearings/seals replaced. Stock H22A1 ECU till bar then MAYBE hondata S300. After BAR and smog I am going to go with a hytech replica header and a high flow cat. Running 2.5 exhaust with a hytech twinloop. Quiet deep and semi inconspicuous is my general goal . . . car is going to be black on black or a vibrant green metallic on black. At first I was thinking forest green but it's not green enough. More than likely black on black though.

I want to take the car to autocross events and occasionally maybe go to Thunder Hill. My absolute most favorite thing in the world to do is to drive windy roads (never too fast on public roads, when it becomes an issue of other people's safety I absolutely consider moderation) but I will also be daily driving the car. I don't care about how it rides, I like really stiff and responsive. To me newer cars are numb and unresponsive and it's not like driving any more, it's just getting to the destination softly and slowly. That aside I have been trying really hard to search everything I find (half the people on here are search ****'s . . .) because I understand people ask a lot of the same annoying questions that you can figure out in 5 minutes of searching.

Going to be running Enkei RPF1 15's in black, going to try to get a second set for racing for slicks but for the most part I'm just going to run moderate cost semi sticky tires on them like RE-11's. 205-50R15 or 195-50R15.

I need to do something for the brakes, not sure what. Maybe a big brake kit but I was thinking more like just upgrading the rear brakes to GSR rears. My EX is front and rear ABS disk. Also considering just keeping a set of race pads handy in the car for track events instead of going bananas with the brakes. Steel braided lines for sure.

Now for the meaty bit.
-Koni/GC for sure, after a couple years of researching and riding in/driving cars with em I'm more than satisfied compared to other brands in similiar price ranges.
-Function 7 rear LCA's with spherical bearings and their rear lower frame brace. Expensive I know but you get what you pay for. US made FTW.
-Function 7 heim spherical end links.
-ASR rear sway bar kit, 24mm
-Probably the Eibach 26mm front sway, might go for an OEM 24mm one from whatever one had that, ITR?
-NOT RUNNING A BEAKS BAR! Consensus is they are worthless, and I don't like intentional colorfull and bright suspension crap.
-Full Hard Race bushing replacement with the master kit. I really don't f***in want to do it, but I need to, lol.
-Skunk2 pro plus front camber, and the S2 rear camber.
-Manual steering rack.
-Full Race traction bar.

I have a question at this point. *raises hand*

I was told a large issue with H swaps in general was understeer. I also basically figured out that stiffening of the rear of the chassis helps out with that, and was advised to run a rear strut tower bar but not a front one which I can understand if the previous principles are applied. Thoughts? Will having a 6 point cage make any difference in this matter?

Also I know if I ever really want to get into sanctioned events or something to that accord I need to have the following: roll cage, fire suit, extinguisher, shoes to go with the suit, helmet, and a brain. Money helps too. Not sure exactly what events require the above, not asking so much becuase I know I can search and find it but I want most of those things anyways for safety.

Roll Cage: Would have one custom fabbed for me, 6 point. I know they're heavy, like 150lb ish or more. Would be going with a bride zeta III in plain black. Going with whatever for the harness, probably takata but whatever I can get for moderate cost.

Also want to invest in some driving classes when my car is close to done. I want to have someone who really knows how to drive a car to it's potential to help me REALLY get to know mine.


Sorry for the mass of text. All in all I know it's going to ride like poo for the most part and while it's a a daily driver there are some things I just can't do to it to make it handle like a dedicated race car. I want a ~70-30, race/DD combo. First thing is an alarm though after the swap is done, which is almost paid off. Paint is very last, don't mind it looking like ****. Always been a show<go guy. Stickers are retarded. Might as well get one that says, "Steal my fake JDM parts!" Numbers and info like the SCCA and NASA badges are more than fine but I don't want people to try and judge my personality from a sentance on my bumper, lol. Also the exterior will remain almost entirely stock.

Was considering making this a build thread, but my intent is to get into the thing I'm most passionate about, racing. I DO NOT CONDONE NOR RECOMMEND speeding on public roads but I as a human being am prone to brief moments of idiocy, I could lie if that makes anyone feel better. I am not rich, I make 9$ an hour and am willing to spend most of my time and money on what I love when it already isn't devoted to hospital bills.

Thank you guys. Whale away and give me your advice. I'm going to continue searching for my own answers while I wait for replies, so don't even start.

Edit: For some reason I thought I posted this in the road racing forum . . . either way, my emphasis for questioning is based on suspension.

 

While you say you want it to be a 70/30 race/DD, the fact of the matter is if it is a DD, you're going to be driving it a LOT more on the street than you are on the track. Regular street driving can take a toll on some of those parts you mentioned, especially things like spherical bearings. If the car was race only, those bearings would last much longer than if you drive them on the street and expose them to all the road grime, wetness, dirt, mud, tar, etc. Same with those spherical end links. Those tend to go to crap quickly and rattle around vs. stock-style end links. May want to look into the HardRace replacement end links.

http://www.buyhardrace.com/product/h...type-r_28.html

Also, I'm assuming you plan to run camber kits to dial in more negative camber for track use, correct? You won't really need it to reduce negative camber if that's what you're worried about.

Another thing is the steering rack. Manual racks have a slower ratio and are generally crappy for either street or track use. I think you'd be better off keeping your power rack and just venting it, a-la the Realtime Racing setups in their track cars.

Tire size - 205/50-15 is a bit big for 92-95 Civics and will be more likely to rub than 195/50-15 will.

 

Ok, it's not like I'm really going to notice the difference between the spherical and non spherical. I personally have access to an alignment rack so before i go to the track I'd put in an extra degree or two of negative camber. Was only really going to buy the rear camber kit if I NEEDED it, which would be after an alignment etc to figure out where I'm standing.

I want to keep power rack, but someone told me it was a bad idea to cap it off but I'll look into what you were mentioning(Edit: Not gonna have power steering with H2B, did just want to cap it off initially). I need to replace the entire unit anyways becuase it's bad, was thinking go manual with a quick steer kit but your idea doesn't sound too bad.

I'll stick with the regular bearing and endlinks and save like 200$.

Edit #2: Also, you linked the type R/GSR/LS endlink, everything I see for my EJ's rearend is the same as those tegs so I assume it'll work fine right?

 

Found the writeup for the realtime racing thing with the manual rack. I need to replace my steering rack anyways becuase it's bad. If I need go go with a new OEM rack should I do the same one for my car or do something like the ITR? Probably just going to stay OEM for ease of installation. I also really wish there were still pictures for the thread too, whithout them it's a bit vague.

My friend was telling me to go with poly bushings just because. Not super familiar with the differences but I'll look for them.

Edit: While I'm here right now, back on the cage thing. If I end up just not having the time/money to go to any REAL track events that require them, would I be best off just not getting the cage and spending that money somewhere else and saving the weight?

 

NO!!! Do NOT use polyurethane bushings. If you track the car regularly, they'll wear out in a year. They bind and do not allow the proper range of movement like rubber or spherical do.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/how-quick-easy-civic-integra-trailing-arm-bushing-replacement-also-es-poly-vs-mugen-1589298/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/my-experiences-poly-bushings-info-post-1563815/

Yeah I think the vented power rack is the best option. Lets you keep fluid in the rack for lubrication, but lets any pressure vent out which makes for easier turning.

Here's the original thread from 2002 about venting the PS rack in the ITR forum:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-type-r-8/how-power-steering-manual-184202/

FYI a manual rack with something like Quaife's rack & pinion will still have a slower ratio than the power rack, which is probably why Realtime Racing went that route.

Also I know that the F7 LCA's are the same for 92-95 Civic and 94-01 Integra applications, so the Integra end link should work on your car. I'm currently running an ITR 22mm rear sway with Beaks kit, F7 LCA's and OEM end links on my GS-R.

 

That's what I was figuring. My friend daily drives with Poly's and he swears by them but I do want to get some REAL track action in. HardRace it is.

Reading more on the vented rack thing I also agree. Thank you for the suggestion, much appreciated. Might make my own adaptation to it seeing as I have access to lots of copper line and a torch. I need a new rack and pinion anyways and get a work discount from local parts places so that'll help.

Wish I HAD OEM endlinks, don't much feel like using the ferio LCA's when I could just get the F7's to match the subframe brace. I always thought and heard that the beaks kit was more show than practical but I suppose it should be similiar, and you don't need anything quite as fancy as the solid plate brace like the ASR or F7 though I like the integral mounting area for the swaybar, placebo affect I guess.

Another thing I was considering was wether or not the 24mm rear would be too much. Worst case scenario I'll just sell the ASR and get the ITR rear or the Eibach rear.

Any thoughts on the rear strut tower bar?

Edit: That was actually the thread I was reading but for some reason when I added the hyperlink when I posted it just cut it off. Thank you for taking the time to look for that for me though.

Edit: One other thing, I love my coupe but would I be 954755646 times better off with a hatch? I know they're lighter but with the H motor weighing more wouldn't the coupe be easier to get closer to a 5050 ratio? I know it's never going to be 5050 without corner weights, just generalizing.

 

Quick bump.

Thoughts on rear and/or front strut tower bar with understeer associated with motor weight?
Stage 2 or 4 CM clutch?
Black or green?
What kind of racing events do I need a cage/suit/etc to get into?
Hatch or Coupe (BIG ONE)

If I get an offer for a hatch I don't know if I can resist the trade.