blower motor acura integra
need help it cold out and my heat wont blow i checked everything only thing i see there is a wire that comes from wat it looks like the switch to cut it on but its just hanging and i cant figure out where it goes ther is a wire not connected near the blower motor but they dont reach anywhere near each other im pretty sure they wouldn fit any way BUT MY REAR DEFROSTERS STILL WORK ? any ideas
Rear defrost is electric. I know one common problem is for the cable(s) to becomes diconnected/broken from two valves that they opperate to let coolant flow into the heater in the dash. You can check in the engine bay on the firewall where the coolant line comes into the cabin, theres a valve with a little cable attached to the top. Move the temperature control on you climate control and see if it moves or not. Theres also another valve on the side of the heater assembly. If these valves dont move when you move the control, then they have to just be moved manualy. Sorry if I didnt give the greatest description, hope it helps. Its is very cold out there, I would not want to be without heat.
Check for power at the blower motor, should be a blue/white lead in a two pin plug at the blower motor, ign. switch must be on.
If you have power on the blue/white lead, use a jumper lead to supply a ground to the blower motor ground lead, blue/black lead in two pin plug, if blower works you will need to check the blower resistor, you will need to remove glove box. 94
If you have power on the blue/white lead, use a jumper lead to supply a ground to the blower motor ground lead, blue/black lead in two pin plug, if blower works you will need to check the blower resistor, you will need to remove glove box. 94
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well i checked the wires they were loose so i straightened that out but it still dont work i can see a green and orange wire that comes off the same harness that is just hanging but i cant figure out where it goes also there it a red and black wire hanging from behind the dash cant figure out where its suppose to connect at
Get a wiring diagram. You can probably get a .pdf online some where.
The resistor is usually the culprit when the motor only works on certain speeds, as opposed to not running at all.
If the motor is not coming on at all, then it is most likely the motor itself. If I remember right it's only 3 10mm bolts holding it on.
The resistor is usually the culprit when the motor only works on certain speeds, as opposed to not running at all.
If the motor is not coming on at all, then it is most likely the motor itself. If I remember right it's only 3 10mm bolts holding it on.
Red/black on Honda/Acura is normally illumination power, [hot when park/head lights are on.
Have you checked for power on the blue/white on 2pin plug plugged into the blower motor yet?
Replacing parts before you know what the problem is, only works if the first part you replace is the defective one.
There are more then a few things that can be wrong that keeps a blower motor from working , the motor is only one of them, blower relay may be bad, heater fan switch may be bad, resistor may be bad, or it could just be a wiring issue or a blown/defective
fuse.
Troubleshoot and find the problem before you start replacing parts. 94
Have you checked for power on the blue/white on 2pin plug plugged into the blower motor yet?
Replacing parts before you know what the problem is, only works if the first part you replace is the defective one.
There are more then a few things that can be wrong that keeps a blower motor from working , the motor is only one of them, blower relay may be bad, heater fan switch may be bad, resistor may be bad, or it could just be a wiring issue or a blown/defective
fuse.
Troubleshoot and find the problem before you start replacing parts. 94
You start by eliminating the easy stuff, make sure it is not wiring/connections, starting at the motor is the easiest, [nothing has to be taken apart].
You can start at the switch end and work towards the motor, but that will require pulling the controls.
The blower switch supplies the ground for the blower motor, directly for full speed and through successive resistors for the lower speeds.
To test the switch you will first need to test for ground into the switch, the switch has 5 leads, [6 if you have A/C] going to it , the black is ground input, it should have continuity to ground, [chassis ground] at all times.
All the other leads are outputs, [these are for a 90-98 Integra and 96-98 Civic and probably other Honda/Acura]....
Once you confirm there is a good ground into the switch, [black] check for a ground out of the switch, if you have A/C the green lead will test as a ground when blower switch is in any position except off, the other leads will show ground in position 1, [blue] position 2, [blue/white] position 3, [blue/yellow] and position 4, [blue/black].
If the switch is good you will need to move on to the blower resistor and test for those grounds on those leads at the blower resistor plug...
The blue/black at the blower resistor is the output the others are inputs, the blue/black will show full continuity when blower switch is in position 4, [parallel with blower motor ground direct from switch]
The other leads will show continuity to ground but through resistance.
To access blower resistor you will need to remove glove box, it is easier to start at the motor end just because there is nothing to take apart. 94
You can start at the switch end and work towards the motor, but that will require pulling the controls.
The blower switch supplies the ground for the blower motor, directly for full speed and through successive resistors for the lower speeds.
To test the switch you will first need to test for ground into the switch, the switch has 5 leads, [6 if you have A/C] going to it , the black is ground input, it should have continuity to ground, [chassis ground] at all times.
All the other leads are outputs, [these are for a 90-98 Integra and 96-98 Civic and probably other Honda/Acura]....
Once you confirm there is a good ground into the switch, [black] check for a ground out of the switch, if you have A/C the green lead will test as a ground when blower switch is in any position except off, the other leads will show ground in position 1, [blue] position 2, [blue/white] position 3, [blue/yellow] and position 4, [blue/black].
If the switch is good you will need to move on to the blower resistor and test for those grounds on those leads at the blower resistor plug...
The blue/black at the blower resistor is the output the others are inputs, the blue/black will show full continuity when blower switch is in position 4, [parallel with blower motor ground direct from switch]
The other leads will show continuity to ground but through resistance.
To access blower resistor you will need to remove glove box, it is easier to start at the motor end just because there is nothing to take apart. 94
my 90 integra feels like it only blowing on one speed which seems to be low. it blows out hot air like its supposed to but just not blowing like it should. I replaced the blower motor and I can here it kick on when I put my ear next to it. im wondering if its my resistor that's bad bc I have heard them getting stuck on high not low? can anyone help me
my 90 integra feels like it only blowing on one speed which seems to be low. it blows out hot air like its supposed to but just not blowing like it should. I replaced the blower motor and I can here it kick on when I put my ear next to it. im wondering if its my resistor that's bad bc I have heard them getting stuck on high not low? can anyone help me
my oem factory blower motor was underwhelming at best
and exposed wiring on the back end of the plug eventually began
blowing the under hood fuse (on a super cold day of course).
cracking the sun roof on the freeway at least allowed some heat to be drawn into the cabin. taped up wires, replaced motor with 4 seasons brand.
no problems for 8 years. no probs with resistor (yet?).
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,6916
see chapter 21 for wiring diagram/troubleshooting, too many pages to post here.
http://www.hondahookup.com/forums/do...?do=file&id=45
and exposed wiring on the back end of the plug eventually began
blowing the under hood fuse (on a super cold day of course).
cracking the sun roof on the freeway at least allowed some heat to be drawn into the cabin. taped up wires, replaced motor with 4 seasons brand.
no problems for 8 years. no probs with resistor (yet?).
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,6916
see chapter 21 for wiring diagram/troubleshooting, too many pages to post here.
http://www.hondahookup.com/forums/do...?do=file&id=45
I tested the blower motor and it works fine. I hooked some wires up to the neg and pos of the blower motor and ran it to my battery and it blew out on all speeds like its suppose to so im assuming I have a wiring issue some where in the two stock wires that go to the dash harness cuz the blower motor was just replaced before I bought the car. so now I need to run it to a toggle switch for now.
@Hondagirl86...... I am having the same problem put a new instrument ac unit....changed the motor blower because I have another car I take parts off and still nothing...hopefully the blower resistor is the issue I really hope it is because im in vegas and the desert cold is unforgiving....so hopefully changing the BLOWER RESISTOR does the trick......because my 96 civic doesn't blow any air out whatsoever....so yeah....ive been wanting to find the location of the BLOWER MOTOR SWITCH but by the posst I haven't got the gist of the location so hopefully someone will give me a hand and explain I reeaappreciate it new user.. I have diagrams to nearly every piece of my 96 civic so if ne one needs a diagram of some sort feel free to let me know and I find aa way to post it thank u I am new user n hope to help someone like the tons of help ive gotten from this site before I was even registered user thanks have a good day everyone
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