Brakes Slip at Redlights Seals / Booster?
CRX DX front disk / back drum
new pads all around .. new spring kit in back
car stops ok but not really strong... i doubt if i locked them up if the wheels would lock but maybe they would ... havent tried
is there a way to figure out if it is my master cylinder , the seals in my brakes or maybe even the brake booster that is causing my brakes to slip and the peddle to drop some when I am at a redlight?
The brakes are not real powerful either but I am not sure they ever have been real touchy type brakes where you tap the peddle and the car jerks if you are going slow.
but when I am at a Redlight for an extended time the peddle will drop and sometimes they will slip when I have steady pressure on them.
one pump in neutral and they are fine.
I probably could use new seals all around ... just did the shoes and pads I should have put new seals in but I wanted to get the car moveable ... now i need it stopable heh
So how do i figure this out before i just start swapping in parts?
new pads all around .. new spring kit in back
car stops ok but not really strong... i doubt if i locked them up if the wheels would lock but maybe they would ... havent tried
is there a way to figure out if it is my master cylinder , the seals in my brakes or maybe even the brake booster that is causing my brakes to slip and the peddle to drop some when I am at a redlight?
The brakes are not real powerful either but I am not sure they ever have been real touchy type brakes where you tap the peddle and the car jerks if you are going slow.
but when I am at a Redlight for an extended time the peddle will drop and sometimes they will slip when I have steady pressure on them.
one pump in neutral and they are fine.
I probably could use new seals all around ... just did the shoes and pads I should have put new seals in but I wanted to get the car moveable ... now i need it stopable heh
So how do i figure this out before i just start swapping in parts?
actually you know im thinking cant be the seals in the caliper or wheel cylinders because nothing is leaking...
so it has to be the master cylinder seals or the booster
also the RPM on my car seems a little high lately but that could be from sitting
so it has to be the master cylinder seals or the booster
also the RPM on my car seems a little high lately but that could be from sitting
personally i dont like rebuilds if new ones are available. and i only like to use OEM.
but double check your calipers and rear wheel cylinders for any leaks. also, next time you ought to check under the boot of the front calipers and look at the condition of the piston wall. at this age, the piston is probably in need of replacing and the caliper seal wont mate nicely with the non-smooth caliper wall. so either replace the piston and seal and rebuild it yourself, or buy rebuilt calipers.
kinda not as easy to check now since youve pushed the caliper all the way back in with the new pads, but you can still lift the boot and check for any "wetness" from leaking brake fluid. if you see any weeping, its going to be trouble sooner than later and you need to replace.
generally tho, soft brakes after a brake job just sounds like a better bleed is needed.
and you still need to replace the MC regardless.
Fluid looks great and i just flushed the whole system and cleaned the master cylinder reservoir
Im thinking its seals in the master cylinder
but
could be the booster because the brakes aren't real responsive
yea that helps ... put myself back were i started ...
anyway no leaks at the calipers or wheel cylinders or any of the lines
and the fluid is fresh.
Im thinking its seals in the master cylinder
but
could be the booster because the brakes aren't real responsive
yea that helps ... put myself back were i started ...
anyway no leaks at the calipers or wheel cylinders or any of the lines
and the fluid is fresh.
tyson im not sure what you mean by
not losing fluid in the reservoir
the reservoir is not cracked and leaking not really sure how to test the seals without just replacing the seals... probably be better off just replacing the whole master cylinder then think they are about $75
not losing fluid in the reservoir
the reservoir is not cracked and leaking not really sure how to test the seals without just replacing the seals... probably be better off just replacing the whole master cylinder then think they are about $75
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 870
Likes: 1
From: Close to West Chester, PA, United States of America
Replace Master Cylinder. If getting a rebuild, try and get a rebuilt OEM. Been lucky and my rebuilt units have been rebuilt OEM units.
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