im having a problem with my disi.. my 96 ls integra was throwing missfire codes.. so i purchased a obd1 b18 nonvtec distributor and wired up my obd1 plug... wired it right also... now it wont start at all. it turns off ect. no more check engine light but it just wont fire.. does anybody have a clue as too why.. plz help i need my car!!

 

Also the firing order is correct new cap and rotor... anybody know? i tried searching cant find anything..

 

let me get this straight... you wired an ODB1 dizzy into your OBD2 car? you obviously did not wire it correctly. start over or purchase the correct distributor for your car

 

yes it is wired right.. i fallowed the wiring diagrams all over the net.. its wired right.. and im prob going to have to buy a obd2 disi.. wich is like 200 dollars. boo

 

what instructions? I've seen like 4 sets of instructions and not one of them match especially if you matched just using colors and not pin locations. Check it versus this chart:

 

yeah thats how i wired it.. iv bought a minime harness off u from ebay! haha cool.

 

no its wired wrong i think i cant figure it out.. i have the disi infront of me with the obd2 plug on it..

 

first off, what codes were u getting? most of the time, misfire codes aren't actually a result of a pooched distributor. especially on a 96+

 

misfire on all 4 cyls.. its a 96. so 4 codes.. 1 timing code and 1 fuel to rich or something... only 3 of my wires are right. so ima wire the rest try it... wht would a misfire be from

 

a "timing" code isn't very specific. what were the exact codes?
sounds like all the codes are connected though. timing is off (for whatever reason), causing a rich condition, which caused misfire on all cylinders.
did you check the timing?
you may not have even needed a new distributor

 

i dont exactly remember the codes i just know there were 6... i figure a misfire doesnt come from anything els besides where the spark comes from... and i figured it was rich and timing was off due to open loop mode? wel'll see in midde of wiring the disi right... also the timing belt was done 3 years ago from pepboys.. no back yard mechanics have touched this car ever.. completely stock unmolested

 

actually, a misfire code is almost never the result of the distributor. it usually stems from running rich or lean. finding the cause of the rich or lean condition is the repair.
you have to remember that codes are only set through monitors, or a malfunction of a monitor. a misfire is detected when the crank sensor detects a disturbance in the pattern of its signal
the belt may have skipped a tooth, causing timing to retard and run rich. it's just one possibility. or your plugs or wires may be worn or arcing out. then again, a weak coil could cause misfires. but even then, only the coil would need to be replaced.
i would have checked the timing first, then gone from there

 

dsm. well im about to put it on and try it so we'll see.. and i dont how to check timing on a dohc i also dont have a timing light... haha

 

... ok guys down to 2 codes and im in limp mode... code 1382. and code 0335. wich is crankd and cam sensors... im just going to buy a obd2 disi this is stupid. but my misfire is gone so it was the disi its self!..

 

so how was the car running before you did this?
crank sensor is located at the crank on obd2 b series, but in the distributor on obd1.

 

it was running mint.. but i cant get a sticker with 6 codes.. not to mention the timing was retarded so i lost power.. now its down to just crank posistion sensor.. my buddy said since its reading 2 sensors now i have to bypass the one on the oilpump..also its not in limp mode any more

 

so your timing was retarded before? ahh, that will cause a rich condition, which could cause misfiring.
and if the car was running fine, chances are this whole problem wasn't the distributor. the misfire code could take time to come back. a problem must persist 3 consecutive times in order to set a code.
this whole thing was probably just your timing. what is it set at?

if you wanted to pass smog, you could have just probably cleared the codes and swang it through after the ecu reset itself. since the car was running fine, the problem was probably intermittent

 

i dont know what its set at... the other 5 codes went away when i got the disi on and i let it run for 20 minutes and still only 1 code.. i just hate the check engine light. but now i have to splice 4 wires into 2.. then the last code will we gone...

 

sounds like a lot of screwing around. how do you know the car's not running open loop?
the car may also need to be driven in order to set codes. if the codes were cleared, it takes time for the monitors to reset.
not trying to be a killjoy here, believe me. just stating possibilities

 

ill just have to see after i finish it up tomorrow.then ill go from there.

 

cool. an update would be much appreciated. good luck, btw

 

well i spliced my 4 wires at the ecu that i needed to do... so my crank sensor code is gone.. now i have a "timing is too advanced code" p1381 i think.. i dont remember? but now it runs worse and sounds like its cammed. i geus im going to get the right disi

 

Do you even have a timing light? I don't see any point in buying an OBD2 dizzy after you already rewired the OBD1 one...

 

no i dont.. nor have i ever used one.. lol iv always just completely re done the timing everytime.. but i dont understand why this code would just come on after i spliced the wires.. it wasnt on b4 the only one i had was crank code

 

How do you know your timing was retarded then? You must have your timing belt set properly at TDC and then adjust ignition timing with a light gun.
I rewired my OBD2 dizzy to OBD1 and I didn't have any extra wires, so I don't really understand what wires you had to splice.
Those CEL codes don't just pop up with no reason. Check your timing again. Maybe you are using the wrong mark on the crankshaft pulley?
Idk, you're doing too many things at once, which is exactly called "screwing around" by El Crapitan...