I just finished my dpfi to mpfi obd1 & fired up great. Just that when i drive it & gas it up, it will redline @ 4000rpm. Does this have to do with the 4 wrie o2 sensor or something? I got a code for that & my check engine light blinks on & off every 3 seconds. Any help please? I also got a code for my dizzy, but swap shop racing told me thats ok. It works fine i think?

 

no it's not ok screw the shop, dizzy code will put the ecu in limp mode, like a safe mode, cant pass certain rpm, may or may not be the o2 sensor, read all code first see what the ecu said

 

ok so if what do i look for or i mean change in the dizzy? i got a spare dizzy laying around & what if i delete the o2 sensor if i chip it today, will it help run smoother? It doesnt even accelerate quickly. My friends ef with the same d15b2 runs & revs up way better & quicker. So what can i or should i do?

 

Found out what code i got. Its a crank positions sensor, so what can i do to take care of that?

 

make sure its plugged in to start with

 

Tried an extra dizzy i had laying around, all i did was add my coil to it & started up, drove it & ran smoother, but still cutting off way too early. Whats going on here???

 

are you using the obd0 Distributor or a obd1 distributor you must use a obd1 if you converted to obd1 which it sounds like you are using the obd0 distributor

 

i am using obd1 non vtec distributors. I got a p06 ecu. Could it be that both dizzys are bad? Or should i take it back to the shop that did my harness so that he can check his work over? I doubt its his wiring?

 

Isnt the crank position sensor in the dizzy?

 

what plug is on your distributor did he repin the distributor to obd0 plug or what? if ur changing distributors im guessin he cut the plug or repined the engine harness if so possibly he didn't do it correctly i took a obd1 distributor and repined it with a obd0 plug i know a lot of the sites say the wires are same color match up to each other when making a conversion harness or what not but they aren't i opened mine up and verified they aren't with both distributors side by side and then pined accordingly

 

I was throwing a Crank positioning sensor after my swap because my timing was THAT off, I redid the timing and she runs like a champ. cut that code off and out of limp mode. Just something to try, but it worked for me.

 

when u did the mpfi swap did u change the cyp wire to the correct terminal?

 

Im not sure about the cyp teminal, but this morning i went to start it with the spare dizzy & it revved up fast & i smashed on 1st & 2nd, but after that it went to limp mode again. It did that twice today so far, so i dont think Its the dizzy is it? How would the timing be off? I heard from different shops today that the o2 sensor may have something to do with it. They say try another dizzy (3rd dizzy btw) & if its still limp mode then to wire up the o2 sensor if not chip it to delete that. What do you guys think? Had 2 other shops check my wiring & say its fine.

 

And the car is all grey plug obd1 just so you know "1990hondacrx" even the dizzy harness plugs.

 

WTF?! My car just went outa limp mode on its own right now. i took it for a spin & just ran smooth. Thats weird.

 

Honda.

 

congrats man!

 

Kinda found out why my cars on limp mode, but its been smooth for 2days now. When the wires & the jumper is all bunched up, it goes limp. So when i stretch them out on floor towards the seat, it runs strong. So wiring is the issue. I still get a a code 4. 2maro im going to try my buddys dizzy on my hatch & see if i get rid of that code 4 if not then its going to be some crossed wire. And as for the other code which is the o2 sensor, when i chip my ecu, can i delete that?

 

have you disconnected teh battery? that will reset the ECU