91 civic hatch si b16a NO SPARK
Ok this is my first time posting on here. I normally stay in the archives to find what I need but this one has me stumped
91 civic hatch si rhd converted
b16a obd1 converted to obd0 with d16a6 harness, dizzy jumper harness, zc injectors and a p72. also have a pr3 ecu I plugged in too
I AM GETTING NO SPARK.
things I have done.... Checked all fuses under the hood...... #2 and #14 under the dash. The main relay clicks. Thermostat ground is tight trans ground is good and valve cover ground is good.
This motor ran perfect when pulled from my eg.
I had a b18 in my ef since everything was converted to rhd so I know the shell is good
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Please take it easy on me this is my 1st post
91 civic hatch si rhd converted
b16a obd1 converted to obd0 with d16a6 harness, dizzy jumper harness, zc injectors and a p72. also have a pr3 ecu I plugged in too
I AM GETTING NO SPARK.
things I have done.... Checked all fuses under the hood...... #2 and #14 under the dash. The main relay clicks. Thermostat ground is tight trans ground is good and valve cover ground is good.
This motor ran perfect when pulled from my eg.
I had a b18 in my ef since everything was converted to rhd so I know the shell is good
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Please take it easy on me this is my 1st post
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is your distubitor good..u got valve cover ground on....starter wires secured on......how is ur vtec wired up....had same problem when i swapd in my b16a and i just unhooked my vtec and it started up....
yea first thing never crank the engine with the cap off it will fry your coil or ignitor.
you should get power to the coil with your key on if your computer and main relay are working.
If you get power to the in side of the coil then you can use an ohm meter to check across the in side to the out poll that goes to the ignitor. they should be next to each other on the coil.
You can also check if you get a connection from the in side of the coil to the HOT output / high side where the rotor connects...
There are acceptable Ohm readings and passing through the coil of wire in the coil will reduce the Ohms it wont be infinity but it wont be as strong a connection as between the two wires of the in and out where the wire goes to the ignitor.
There are tests to do on the ignitor a honda manual should have the numbers you need.
Some parts places will also bench test.
It is tricky but if you see a white/gray powder on the coil you probably fried it look for a hole but most of the time you wont see it.
I also know from experience after market ignitors can suck right out of the box so get a good one.
you should get power to the coil with your key on if your computer and main relay are working.
If you get power to the in side of the coil then you can use an ohm meter to check across the in side to the out poll that goes to the ignitor. they should be next to each other on the coil.
You can also check if you get a connection from the in side of the coil to the HOT output / high side where the rotor connects...
There are acceptable Ohm readings and passing through the coil of wire in the coil will reduce the Ohms it wont be infinity but it wont be as strong a connection as between the two wires of the in and out where the wire goes to the ignitor.
There are tests to do on the ignitor a honda manual should have the numbers you need.
Some parts places will also bench test.
It is tricky but if you see a white/gray powder on the coil you probably fried it look for a hole but most of the time you wont see it.
I also know from experience after market ignitors can suck right out of the box so get a good one.
vtec is not wired nor are any of the other wires of the ecu jumper harness. The dizzy is good, I can put it on my other b16 and it fires rite up. I have checked every ground, I have checked every fuse under hood n under dash, i have replaced main relay. this is crazy. are 89-91 d16a6 harness all the same. i know 88 is differant. im lost please continue to help greatly appreciated
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