Here is how I did it, take out your whole actuator assembly, put it on the table, Cut off the crank leaving as much of the actuator assembly as you can like this

cut like this

Then I took a del sol one out at the junk yard and left the plate bolted to the motor assenbly and cut it long like this

Overlapped it, made sure the teeth meshed and welded it prolly could screw or rivet but use 4 NOT JUST 2 as it will twist and bend.

Then you are going to be needing to clearance the skin a little and poof find some nice switched and it is done, way easier to put the switches in the car not the door less fishing wires and then you only need 2 switches. Enjoy.



If you rank on my posting I am supprised it even came out this good, computer and spending time with computers are not my thing really.

 

nice writeup deff should go to faq asap.

 

Good Stuff!

 

Good job thinking outside the box. You could even clean those cuts up a little more and make the set up a bit cleaner looking. I know its behind the door panel, but you know it's there!

 

I am going to make some new door panels and wrap it all in dynamat I just ran out of stainless sheets big enough. I got tons of ideas and pics scattered on many computers. I will add to what I can, when I can. I also have a 1 measurement way to install most any seats, that 1 will be next.

 

not bad. what if you used EF power door actuators tho? they are available in the junkyard. was it just that you didnt want to wait and search for them, and just wanted to make the del sol motor work?

im thinking of my options too. and i only want to do the passenger side myself.

howd you wire it up? im seeing more than 2 wires out of the motor but only 2 wires leading out hte door.

 

very cool man thanks for sharing

 

yeah it looks like the 4dr EF actuators work fine and bolt right in.

http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?t=7089

this looks like a hack job. but its functional and you got the job done.

 

i personally wouldn't do it. doesnt this affect/weaken the door by tearing it apart?

 

Clearly the critics havent seen my car, as the doors have just been started. And you guys can go ahead and use yer 91 at the newest parts and I will use my perfectly working del sols. As far as the strength it doesnt apply, slap a chunk of dynamat over it. Yer momma, teach, not nice, say nothing.

 

Lol, perhaps you'd like to be treated like a little child, but this is a site for adults. And the 13th rule of the internet is don't post stuff up and not accept both criticism and compliments.

And clearly you haven't posted pictures other than ur door in this thread... So I have no idea what else you expect.

But personally I don't think I was being all that critical if you read my posts. Asking your thought process and offering a BETTER alternative (to others who want to do the same) isn't criticism. I think calling it a hack job is harsh but objective. You literally DID hack both the regulator and door panel.

Anyway, I guess this means you won't be anymore helpful and answer any electrical questions. Oh well.

 

there is a easier / cleaner way to do this...
i'll get a camera soon and do a write up on my crx.

 

So if I'm reading this right, your gonna slap tape over it? Pretty much what dynamat is. And for clarification, I was asking not implying if it would weaken the door. If this is how you did your windows I'm kinda afraid for the rest of the car.

 

Yes there are better and cleaner ways to accomplish the same thing. The part that everybody seems to neglect is in the title "... for 25 bucks". I haven't priced window parts, but the motor is probably cheaper than buying (and shipping) a motor/regulator assembly.

The removal of material probably doesn't affect the door that much. My concern is that the bolt holes are close to the edge of the hole. The OP may have not have been too clean on the execution, but the idea is sound. I'll give him props for the idea.

 

Don't do it this way.

Just grab 2 front window regulators from the junkyard from an 88-91 Civic Lx/Ex. You need to switch over 1 track on each from your manual regulators (the one the window attaches to).

Put them in, wire then up, get some switches and you're good.

I've done a couple of power window installs. I know what I'm talking about.

Btw this is only a $25 job IF you have a welder laying around. Power window regulators from and lx/ex should come out to be around $25-40 for both.

 

dude!!!
Anyway this will work with the wagon?

 

Look at my post and do what I said. I have a write-up on hcw about how to put them in a wagon.

 

i like it not to bad it's cool write up

 

i was just going to say this is a one hell of a ghetto hack job that the o/p posted up. i too swapped in stock regulators and motors from an lx sedan. cost me around 40 for the regulators and wiring, i used the stock 4 door switch for the drivers side, the passenger side i used the front passenger switch from a 90-93 four door integra, and i used the stock wiring from the lx sedan and integrated it into my stock harness. oh and the doors have the bolt holes for the power window motors, so i didn't have to modify my doors at all.

i want to upgrade to integra or civic coupe motors to handle the larger glass and i need to grease my tracks... other than that they work flawlessly and i have zero problems with it. not trying to knock your originality o/p, but this is just too ghetto for my taste when it costs the same to do it the correct way.

 

I drive it like I stole it, everything works and I am the proud owner of a true 1 of vehicle.

A hack ? No, ef 4dr window swaps do not turn out functioning as well as the bastard I made. I have done them also, much happier with full smooth fast 100% travel in both directions.

Dont assume anything about me like I have never done something another way. I have never been happy with ef power windows until now.

Yup 2 wires from the motors, others are the doors locks. I always solder and heat shrink my wiring unless it is coming back out soon.

I ran the motor wires to 2 relays wired them for reversal rest on ground, then ran my switches negative so I could tap my alarm straight in with no other parts. Then put a thermal breaker in 1 motor wire to be a auto shut off. With all that, del sol motors, suburban window switch pod and custom wiring all junk that I had laying around. This configuration worked best for me.

I am cutting my doors down to skins and re building with a cage/frame, dynamat and stainless sheeting. Again it is what works for me. I have seen way more actual damage being done inside a door than this minor cut for clearance. Structure is the impact beam that backs the outter skin, the thick hinge purchs or the latch jamb, all working together. As far as this tin pan that things bolt to, well, structure it is not, not from a safety aspect.

Many of 1000's of ways to do everything and there is more than 1 right way. Not to say mines right, just works flawlessly for me over and over again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JaPOxe2Q4Q4

 

Uh. Yeah but why cut and weld when you can bend a tab and replace a track????

Yeah there are thousands of ways to do things but there are also thousands of "why??"

 

Yup get yourself a interchange guide and rock on. Del sol has a big heavy window, fast motor, much newer used part and is a easy mod that exceeded my expectations. 25 yrs of being a master installer and fabricator is wasted here. This is supposed to be fun and informative. " The correct way " " Getto " " hack " etc.... everyone is entitled to their opinion. Fun nope, tyson u might be a smart guy but read in a list your last 50, you put almost everyone on the defensive contributing very little while saying alot. Isnt this site for ideas, help, custom, troublshooting etc.... or means for some to feel supperior while making others feel inferior? If the 4 dr swaps rite in and works perfectly then why upgrade the motor? sometimes mod the 2 bolt holes and have it not go down 100% without mod? All taken from this thread or links placed in it. But weak, slow and shuttering were left out. I have used stock 4 dr, aftermarket and now this way and like this alot. Does that make it right, no, the right way, no, but it is the best I have ever watched a power ef window move and I shared, my bad. This is probably the last ef I will build for fun, next ones gonna be a n600 with a z6 longitudinaly front mounted rwd i think.

 

Interesting . . .

 

im a smart guy. thanks for noticing.

i really dont have to defend my contribution to this forum. it speaks for itself.

i make sure the facts are straight. i asked you for facts. youve gotten all butt hurt about any sense of criticism.

talking about the advantages of the del sol motor vs ef motor before hand would have been more informative. but it took several posts for you to respond when that was the FIRST question i gave.

in 25 years as a master fabricator, did you never realize that you are supposed to swap out the spring so the EF motor doesnt fight gravity so much? thats why you were getting the shuttering.

no, i guess you thought hacking your door was the better solution.

like i said, it works for you. youre happy. youre proud of yourself. do you really need a pat on the head?

 

Yup you are so smart you know what I did each and every time. Like I said no fun. No reason to be here. Tyson you win, you just cost this place a different point of view. Spread your worthless spew all you want. Read the radiator flush posting, you are a t-bag and I offered some extra points of view. Butt hurt? hardly, you are a pompass, spew hurling waste of oxygen. Seriously read your last 50 IN A ROW even you have admitted to being exuberant. If you see me at a meet it will be through a crowd around my car.