What do i need to make this Plug and Play
Ok guys i am kind of doing a little overhaul on my 92 civic. Body has a lot of miles and this suspension components are loose and old. Right now i have set of eibach springs i got free from my brother. I am buying a set of KYB AGX for shocks. Now i want to make this plug and play meaning i want to buy what i have to buy so i can literally take the old stuff off and put the new stuff on without having to swap anything from the factory stuff. So what will i need to make this happen? I am kinda new to the honda scene. Have a Camaro as well i tinker with.
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
I'm guessing you want to do it this way because you don't want to remove the springs from your old shocks. Well, you're still going to need a spring compressor to get the new springs onto the new shocks, whether you use old stuff or not.
As for the parts you need, go here:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...SHOCK+ABSORBER
You'll basically need everything 6 thru 14 from this diagram for each front corner, at about $35 per corner brand new:

For the rear go here:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...SHOCK+ABSORBER
You would need all 1 thru 3 and 7-13 for each rear corner at a cost of about $45 per corner for brand new.

I'd go ahead and pick up a couple of the rear lower shock bolts just in case, #15, for $7.22 each.
So the question is, do you really want to spend an additional $170-$180 on OEM parts that you could just transfer over from your original setup?
As for the parts you need, go here:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...SHOCK+ABSORBER
You'll basically need everything 6 thru 14 from this diagram for each front corner, at about $35 per corner brand new:

For the rear go here:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...SHOCK+ABSORBER
You would need all 1 thru 3 and 7-13 for each rear corner at a cost of about $45 per corner for brand new.

I'd go ahead and pick up a couple of the rear lower shock bolts just in case, #15, for $7.22 each.
So the question is, do you really want to spend an additional $170-$180 on OEM parts that you could just transfer over from your original setup?
Thanks a bunch!! And yes i know i will need a spring compressor this will be done in my friends shop. I just want everything to be new and fresh and installed by my friend and myself.
Any brands you reccommend for the parts? Factory will work with KYB AGX and Eibach springs?
Any brands you reccommend for the parts? Factory will work with KYB AGX and Eibach springs?
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,938
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Yes OEM is really your only option for most of that stuff, unless you go with polyurethane top hat bushings (not recommended). Everything else you're not going to find aftermarket.
Thanks for your help. I am getting the shocks, Hardrace bushing Kit and new tires for it for Christmas. So i will be ok with spending the $180 to know its new and not worn. Also my brother (who has a 97 DX with a B18 Turbo swap) has all kinds of stuff he lets me have for free (hence the free springs).
He has a set of skunk2 lower controls arms that have the old style bushing that sucked. I know they came out with a revised bushing. How do i obtain those? Also i remember reading somewhere that is throws off the sway-bar placement or something like that? My car doesnt have one nor do i really plan to get one so i should be ok to use them right?
He has a set of skunk2 lower controls arms that have the old style bushing that sucked. I know they came out with a revised bushing. How do i obtain those? Also i remember reading somewhere that is throws off the sway-bar placement or something like that? My car doesnt have one nor do i really plan to get one so i should be ok to use them right?
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
contact Skunk2 to find out about the revised bushings. Also be advised the HardRace kit does not come with the shock top hat bushings.
Yeah i know that. I am pretty much replacing almost every bushing on the car. The Trailing arm bushing are toast and the others have almost 300k on them. I will be doing all this work at one time
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Why do you not recomend poly for anything at all? I just replaced my top hat bushings with poly because the stock ones where flattened and ovaled and just done where the sleeve for the strut had slop in the top hat.
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Rubber handles the constant movement associated with suspension much better than polyurethane. The whole "polyurethane is better than rubber" is a straight up myth.
Well we will find out because my whole car is done up with poly. If they last a few years, that's great because the difference in feel is amazing. I feel like I have a brand new car with the smoothness and response.
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Polyurethane is totally inferior as a suspension bushing material (or any other bushing exposed to the exterior IMHO)
Also will the skunk2 lca work ok without a rear swaybar?
Also will i need anything else to make sure i dont eat these tires up when i lower the car? Will a alignment be enough or will i need to buy anything else that is adjustable?
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,938
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
In most cases simply adjusting the toe via 4-wheel alignment should be sufficient, assuming you don't need a camber kit for other reasons (dialing in more negative camber for track use, tire clearance, etc).
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