I have a friend that has a complete bottom end that needs to be re-built. He is asking $220.00 for it. Is that a fair price? I was told its a 98 block. Anything I should look out for??

 

if it isn't damaged that's fair. make sure there are no gouges in the cylinder walls or damage to the mains or crank.

 

Roger that!
He said it’s all stock bottom end, apparently the rings were bad. I'm looking to build a spare engine for boost. So as long as the crank, cylinder walls and main caps are all in good shape, it should be good to go?

 

yep if it's just a worn out bottom end that's a pretty fair deal

 

sweet.........Now i need to find a GSR head!!!

 

how crazy do you plan on making the motor? most the gsr or b16 heads you find used are worn out and $400. if you figure $400 + valves $250 + VT $150-400 + new lost motion assembly $? 300-400? plus valve job and decking $200 + cams $400-600 you'll be in the head at least $1700 when it's all said and done. for $1500 you can buy a brand new in the box ITR head with cams and a vtec solenoid . the other option is buying a head direct from endyn. it's a little more money but would be better suited to a screaming build.

 

Man.... there is just something about that $1500 pricetag that's just scary.

 

just where head builds often fall which is why the new itr head isn't at all a bad buy. you don't have to worry about bad machine work, worn LMA's or what cams to use, you literally get the whole package. put it on a 11:5-1 bottom end and use a performer x manifold, instant 180whp with a tune. if you wanted to cheap skate it you could use a skunk or oem p73 manifold and run the p73 ecu. jdm p73s are all of 100 bucks. you would basically have an R motor with a bit more compression

 

Oh but I’m building this motor for boost. Sorry I guess I forgot to state that.

 

still almost the same conversation. itr cams are excellent for boost. if you just reuse the gsr pistons, rehone for new rings and replace any bearings that need to be it wouldn't be a bad budget build. the stock gsr rods work alright to somewhere in the neighborhood of 400whp.

 

Really! gosh I would hate to do all that with stock parts and then have it fail.

 

get ready to spend more. you can make a really stout bottom end if you sleeve the block and go to town with parts, BUT you run into a whole host of problems above 300whp, maybe 400whp. transmission need to be upgraded, axles have to be upgraded and you either need an on/off switch clutch or a twin. slicks make this mandatory, street tires just mean it takes awhile. you can make a reliable car on the stock bottom end if you stay around 300whp. at 400whp it's hard to say how long it will live, maybe a year? really varies. your budget basically dictates how much hp you can make. find an end goal of how fast you want the car to be before you buy or build anything. if you're going to the moon don't even buy a honda block, just get a dart block, stroker kit and make a sick 2.2L b series that snorts massive amounts of boost. you could make a 9 second car for maybe $20,000....ballparking here

 

any head you buy just have it check out .. in the last 6 months i bought a few gsr head as low as 150 and as high as 275. any head can be had for the right price .

 

Gosh...your scaring me out of turbo-charging my car now...but yeah I'm going to try and stick to 300+ whp in my daily driver.

 

why? there's a sliding scale with these things. to make 300whp live is SO much cheaper than trying to make 450+whp live. with 300whp you basically need a healthy stock engine. most your cash outside the turbo will be spent in the head. you just have such a high potential for problems in used heads. warped cam caps, worn lma's, worn guides, it all depends on what you get for your dollar. personally i would either buy a head from endyn, an acura dealer or another reputable shop. the new itr head really isn't a bad bang for the buck though. you get cams and the vtec solenoid. that's $500-600 on it's own. that brings the price of the bare head down to 900-1000 for brand new, assembled, ready to bolt on.

 

Oh a side note, How do you figure out what pistons I would need in order to keep my stock compression ratio of 10.0:1 B18C1. Is there some sort of chart or calc floating around that I can use.

 

with an itr head? don't even worry about it. with that head on a stock gsr bottom end you would be about 9:8-1, if you have the block decked when you rebuild it since it's likely warped you'll be right back to 9:9-1 or 10:1

 

GSR head B18C1 block

 

if you magically found a gsr head why would you think the compression would change? gsr bottom end and top end = gsr engine

 

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/c...c/compcalc.php for Honda engine compression calculator.

 

Cool thanks

 

that calc only gets you a ballpark. depending on the valves in the head or how much is decked it's going to effect the number, sometimes quite a bit. you need to cc your head when you finish it if you want to get a good number

 

I sold my complete GSR block for $350. It had no problems whatsoever and had 60k original miles on it. It was sold complete, including oil pan. Just to give you an idea

You might find some better deals, or you might also find that some sellers ask a bit more. It all has to do with how minty it is and whatever problems it might or might not have.

 

i would **** if i actually saw a usdm gsr with 60k miles. how did that engine ever come apart with such low mileage ?

 

Idrivesideways is right. A reliable turbo build will run you a pretty penny. This is just to toss up an example:

I paid:

$3,500 for the build on my GSR block from Laskey Racing.
$1,500 for the head build from Headgames.

Thats $5k just for the complete motor, minus the external parts. Add a Cometic head gasket, Skunk2 Pro series IM, New timing belt, tensioner, ITR oil pump, distributor, wires and plugs, and the cost quickly shot up to almost $7k for the motor alone.

P28 chipped, obd2-obd1 harness, (tuning program of your choice), and a reliable tune will run you slightly over $1k

Total so far: $8k

Thats aside from the turbo kit.

I started off with a Full-Race and paid about $6k for it alone. Not to mention it does not come complete, so i still needed injectors and fuel management.

Its a rough road to achieving more power, but a wonderful one that repays you every time you hit the throttle