my buddie has an eg with a ls-vtec swap is red line'n at 6k..we tried everything from swapping out the ecu,distributor,engine harness,he even swapped out the head..no CEL's..we rev'd it while the car is not moving and moving and still wont go pasted 6k..could it be in limp mode? how can i tell if its in limp mode? how can we get it out of limp mode if it is in limp mode? any help would be appreciated...thx!

 

mmm are you sure the tachometer is not off??? go drive it see were it hits vtec at, i had a friend that had a sohc vtec in a eh2 and i tuned his car set vtec at 4500 and rev limit at 7500 and his stock tach would only rev to 6400 no matter what, but it hit vtec at like 3k lmfao his **** was way off...

try changing out the cluster and see what happens...

does it sound like its only revving to 6k?

 

the tach seems fine & vtec cracks at 4500..yeah it sounds like its only up to 6k..

 

stock ls bottem ends shouldn't rev higher then 7500rpms any ****en way.

 

he would love to take it to at least 7k but no bueno..lol

 

...

 

ttt

 

what ecu are you using?

 

^
DOES IT HAVE A TUNE?

 

make sure u have the correct ecu

 

wrong, just the heads shouldnt be revved past 7500

 

bump cause my buddy is having this same problem and also tried the same things you have and it is still doing it.

 

do you have aftermarket ignition like MSD ignition box? they have a rev limiter i belive(some of them)

maybe make a video. borrow a monster tach from someone and check to make sure your cluster is not off. where does it idle?

your chipped ECU also has a rev limiter feature(if its chipped)

 

No, he's right. Them rod-bolts suck ***

 

currently using a stock p28 ecu..but we tried using a friends chipped p28 that went up to 8500 no problem on his car and still the same problem..no kind of msd on it except spark plug wires..and it idles around 800-1000

 

nope your wrong, if you want to rev a stock LS bottom end North of mid 7's thats fine. just let us know how many days that lasts

 

did you take a distributor from your friends car that was 100% working? that would be the first place I started. is this so called "EG" you have an EJ or an EH?

 

yes..tried plenty of distributors from my friends car that are working fine on there car...no its not a ej or a eh its a eg 93 civic cx hatchback model

 

LOL dumbass learn something about honda before u post plz IT IS a EH2 not a eg 99% of any "eg" in the us is a EH? not a eg

http://hondaswap.com/reference-mater...s-codes-31271/

 

ooh smarty pants..thx for the lesson! and that still didnt help the problem! =/

 

well if i had to add some help it is very unlikely but seen 2x's were a faulty VSS would limit the RPM of motor 1 threw a CEL 1 did not-- prob has something to do with the signal wire (not battery V) having to much resistance throwing off ur tach or ecu

 

which one is the signal wire?? sorry ima newb pics would be helpful too..lol

 

umm when i get to school i will post a pic

 

ok i just looked at the wire diagram for the VSS and the out going signal wire is blu/wht and then turns into a orange wire when it comes out of connector C127(at the big connector by the brake master cylinder) so u will want to get a DMM(dig multi meter set on OHMS) and check the resistance from VSS plug and the C127 BEFORE it turns orange

meaning u want to check at the plug same color wire at both plugs and report back with ur OHMS reading

the wire may not be ur issue it may be the VSS top portion cause it is a electrical pulse piece so the top half of the VSS may just be bad

 

ok ill check the ohms reading when i have time and ill report back..can i just replace the whole VSS and itll be good?