After Break in, change the beerings?
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From: On the border Of Cheeseland and HELL
Ok, so i only have 40 miles on my new build. My tuner broke my car in on the dyno. a have a compression test of 150 across the board so it getting close to being sealed. right when i got it home from the tuner shop i changed the oil. i pulled a bunch of shavings off the magnetic oil plug and i mean lots of them lol. so he was telling me that i should change my bearing for safty. Even as often as i changed my oil and with that mag plug will i have to change my bearings out?
There's something really wrong if you "have to change your bearings out" I would drop the pan and unbolt all the rods and at least have a look at them. Who built the motor and how did they check the clearances?
Now that's something I've never heard before. If everything was done correctly (assuming you got the correct bearing clearance) there should be no need to change out bearings. Him suggestion changing out the bearings every oil change is ludicrous. Bearings don't need breaking in nor do they need to be replaced that often. It makes me wonder how credible your tuner is. Some shavings can be expected from having your cylinders re-honed and rings replaced but if there is an excessive amount of particles on your drain plug I would ask for a second opinion from some other expert. You might want to inspect the crank while your at it, especially your thrust washers.
I will say with what's posted I don't see many positive thoughts or outcomes.
Thread Starter
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From: On the border Of Cheeseland and HELL
Well, No bronze/brassy color fillings, no glittery oil. They are the acl replacement bearings. I have a oil pressure gauge. reads about 80-90 psi. I built the motor and double checked EVERYTHING before tuning. Tuned with the turbo on it. running low boost. Broke in on the dyno. spent about 9 hours on the and about 30 runs. its a b20 bottom end if that helps.
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Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: On the border Of Cheeseland and HELL
I dont have a pic. Im going to asume it was normal. It looked more like particles then slivers. if you can imagine the end of a mag plug it covered up about 3/4 of the tip. maybe it wasnt even that bad. I just hope it doesnt damage the bearings.
Question 2. Is it normal with a fresh motor to start kinda rough? A video will help with the start up issue. will be up tomorrow.
Question 2. Is it normal with a fresh motor to start kinda rough? A video will help with the start up issue. will be up tomorrow.
I dont have a pic. Im going to asume it was normal. It looked more like particles then slivers. if you can imagine the end of a mag plug it covered up about 3/4 of the tip. maybe it wasnt even that bad. I just hope it doesnt damage the bearings.
Question 2. Is it normal with a fresh motor to start kinda rough? A video will help with the start up issue. will be up tomorrow.
Question 2. Is it normal with a fresh motor to start kinda rough? A video will help with the start up issue. will be up tomorrow.
I wouldn't go back to that tuner, your bearings should not be chewing up if all measurements are correct. Who built the engine?
And you never answered if it was broken in on boost.
If the block was machined at all there will be excess metal shavings in the first oil change regardless of how many times it was hot tanked. Many will try to dispute this, but it is the truth.
Installing a magnetic drain plug was a smart idea. Asking about changing the bearings was not such a good idea. Put break in oil in it and run it for 1000 miles. change the oil with what ever you want after that. Check for more metal shavings at the 1000 mile oil change. There should be very few if any at all.
Although the rings seat about 80% in the first 20 miles of driving, they wont fully seat 100% until 1000 miles has been put on the motor.
If you are really worried about the metal, put new non-synthetic oil in, drive it for 100 miles and change the oil again. There should be little to no metal shavings. What ever you do use a non-syntheitc oil. Syntheics are to slick and will not allow the rings to seat properly.
I would not go so far as to check the bearings just yet. If you are shaving pieces off of your bearings, there will be bronze colored pieces of metal in your oil filter.
No need to jump to radical conclusions just yet.
Installing a magnetic drain plug was a smart idea. Asking about changing the bearings was not such a good idea. Put break in oil in it and run it for 1000 miles. change the oil with what ever you want after that. Check for more metal shavings at the 1000 mile oil change. There should be very few if any at all.
Although the rings seat about 80% in the first 20 miles of driving, they wont fully seat 100% until 1000 miles has been put on the motor.
If you are really worried about the metal, put new non-synthetic oil in, drive it for 100 miles and change the oil again. There should be little to no metal shavings. What ever you do use a non-syntheitc oil. Syntheics are to slick and will not allow the rings to seat properly.
I would not go so far as to check the bearings just yet. If you are shaving pieces off of your bearings, there will be bronze colored pieces of metal in your oil filter.
No need to jump to radical conclusions just yet.
He already answered your questions in post #7
Boost is irrelevant as to why he has metal sparkles in his oil. The tune couldn't have caused that much bearing damage(if the bearings are even the cause of the metal in oil) in such a short period.
1) What were/are your bearing clearances?
2) Whats the motor set-up?
3) Did you start the motor before any tuning was done? Did you put load on it if so?
If initial start-up is rough, its tune related. Unless there is something wrong with your motor mechanically there's nothing your tuner shouldn't be able to do to make the motor start up like an OEM motor. Even with big cams and big injectors.
*edit* Why is this in the All Motor sub forum if there is boost involved?
1) What were/are your bearing clearances?
2) Whats the motor set-up?
3) Did you start the motor before any tuning was done? Did you put load on it if so?
If initial start-up is rough, its tune related. Unless there is something wrong with your motor mechanically there's nothing your tuner shouldn't be able to do to make the motor start up like an OEM motor. Even with big cams and big injectors.
*edit* Why is this in the All Motor sub forum if there is boost involved?
Well in theory, the increased cylinder pressures due to the boost should help rings seat even faster....
But I would hope the non boost columns of the maps were perfectly tuned before venturing into the boosted columns...But Im not a tuner so who knows.
But I would hope the non boost columns of the maps were perfectly tuned before venturing into the boosted columns...But Im not a tuner so who knows.
I've actually never broken in a boosted car "in" boost.. I've always removed the WG spring and vac lines plugged so it creates no boost.. Of course break-ins should only take a matter of mins , but even still..
But i see where your coming from, pressure on top of the piston would probably expand the rings in the same way(system) to seat.. but i've always been taught and understood to never breakin while boosting.


