Finally finishing the obd conversion on my wagon.

Bought my ZERG Jumper Harness,
Denso Universal o2 sensor.
Obd-1 Dizzy
p-72 ECU

These are the directions that came with the ZERG subharness

PreOBD to OBD1 ECU Conversion Harness Instructions

The following instructions will assist you in completing your installation of your conversion harness.
Additional Parts Needed
Some additional plugs may be required, such as the OBD-1 or OBD-2 distributor plugs and the 4-wire 02 sensor plug.
Other plugs, such as the VTEC solenoid plug, VTEC pressure switch plug and knock sensor plug may be required,
depending on what ECU and engine your are running. It is recommended to use the original OBD-1 plugs for a
cleaner installations. If you are unable to locate the plugs, you may splice directly in the existing plugs.


Wire Color Item Function
Blue P02SHTC 02 Sensor Heater Control (02BLK Wire)
White PH02S 02 Sensor Signal (02 WHT Wire)
Violet VTS VTEC Solenoid Signal
Gray VTM VTEC Pressure Switch Signal
Green IAB Intake Air Bypass Signal
Orange KS Knock Sensor Signal
Red or Pink (2) IGP Power (IAB, 02, BLK Wire)
Black or Brown (3) PG Ground (SCS, VRM, 02 GRN Wire)
Yellow SCS Service Check Signal

Installation Notes
IAB is only used on certain engines and only looked for by certain ECU's (P72) & P13). For all other applications, it
is not required.
SCS is used to check for the sensor codes. A toggle switch can be placed between the YLW wire and the BLK wire, or
directly to a ground source. If you choose this options, keep the YLW wire covered so it does not make contact with
anything that may activate the SCS.
IGP and PG (power and ground) connections are only recommendations and active locations on the ECU.





Now my question,
My DENSO 4 wire o2 Sensor comes with
2 black wires (heater)
1 blue wire (Signal?)
1 white (.....Ground?)

Does not line up with the Zerg Harness info obviously.
So what wire goes where?
PLEASE HELP ASAP
thanks

 

got what i think is the right set up.

car runs fine

but i have 3 CEL's

9 Cylinder 1 Dizzy
21 vtec solenoid
41 o2 Heater circuit

but i have all of the wires hooked up...

its getting too cold out here. Im going to drive it as is until i can get out here in the daylight and heat and figure it out!

any 1 issue that could be common between all 3 things?

 

Do you have the vtec spool and vtec preside switched hooked up the right position?

After thinking about it, I remember my old dpfi set up having a denso o2 sensor and the single wire o2 did have a blue signal wire so that one should be hooked up right. Problem might be in heater signal and ground being mixed.
From what I remember, universal o2's don't give the best accurate readings. Lmk if you want my used direct fit o2.

 

Ill let you know bro, thanks.

What do I do with original 1 wire that went to the o2?

Everything's hooked up and Im still getting these codes.
Also, the vacuum solenoid on top of the manifold, where do I run those wires too?

Please help?
This is frustrating.

 

how is are 2 black wire's hooked up? One goes to the heater circuit and the other goes to 12v at the ecu.

Blue P02SHTC 02 Sensor Heater Control (02BLK Wire) - one black
Red or Pink (2) IGP Power (IAB, 02, BLK Wire) - one black


Gray VTM VTEC Pressure Switch Signal - signal wire on green plug of vtec solenoid
Black or Brown (3) PG Ground (SCS, VRM, 02 GRN Wire) - one goes to black on green plug of vtec solenoid
Violet VTS VTEC Solenoid Signal - goes to grey plug(single wire plug on vtec solenoid)

 

That is exactly how i have everything

hmm.

idk....

 

Take a multimeter and double/triple check the continuity at both ends of every wire. 9/10 times it's a wiring issue.

Last resort is a bad o2 or bad vtec solenoid.

Also did you wire the distributor yourself? or do you have a jumper plug for it?

 

ZERG industries Dizzy Jumper and ECU jumper

Check on what side of every wire?

 

Check from the pin at the ecu to the end of the connector right before the plug. That will make sure that your conversion harness is pinned correctly and that there isn't a disconnect anywhere from there to the plug.

 

Gotcha! Ill check as soon as I can. And I do have a short on the dizzy wire. Because when I start to take off it cuts out just a bit.

 

My distributor short is in my hasport harness. With both plugs disconnected from the distributor, When I wiggle the plugs, the relay mounted to the inside of the passenger side fender behind the headlight clicks

 

I unloomed all of the electrical tape to the distributor plugs from my harness. Now with all of the wires exposed, the relay stops clicking all together! I'm going to run with it this way for a day and see what happens. Also I unplugged my battery to clear all of the codes. I started it out and let it run 410 minutes. Not a single code came back. Now I am really confused!!!

 

Did you just let it idle, or did you rev it? Best test I know of is to rev it at 3k for about 5-10 minutes. If any codes are present they will show up for sure. But looks like you might be good to go.

 

Took it out for a test drive.

Runs pretty good. 20 Minute drive with no CEL's

I'm not sure if I want to tape them back together or not. Or indavidually wrap each one first.

Because it doesnt look very clean at all right now.

Vtec still hits around 6000. Seems pretty high, my Pr-3 Hit at 4500.