OBD1 Longblock to OBD0, need help plz
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 150
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From: PalmDesert, California, USA
I have an 89 CRX Si, stock motor with over 328,000 original miles. Ironically it started smoking a week before it had to get smogged tested(CA). I need it to move and I dont care if it moves fast. So after no luck with trying to get a hold of an OBD0 nonvtec sohc "from a reputable source", here is my question:
Can I take an OBD1 nonvtec D-series longblock and convert it to OBD0?
I figure mechanically they are same, I would just use my OBD0 stuff on the OBD1 long block(dizzy, alternater etc.) any experience and suggestions welcomed. But keep in mind I dont like Vtec and Im sticking to Dseries.


Can I take an OBD1 nonvtec D-series longblock and convert it to OBD0?
I figure mechanically they are same, I would just use my OBD0 stuff on the OBD1 long block(dizzy, alternater etc.) any experience and suggestions welcomed. But keep in mind I dont like Vtec and Im sticking to Dseries.


When you say "it started smoking" what exactly does that mean? I assume you mean its really bad? What color is the smoke?
but to answer your question yes you can use an obd1 block instead. Everything should fit and thats actually ok to do. Most smog techs don't check your engine code anyways. They just make sure all your smog equipment is hooked up, functioning, and of course the tailpipe is test must be clean.
but to answer your question yes you can use an obd1 block instead. Everything should fit and thats actually ok to do. Most smog techs don't check your engine code anyways. They just make sure all your smog equipment is hooked up, functioning, and of course the tailpipe is test must be clean.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 150
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From: PalmDesert, California, USA
I like your answers... thank you. I was unclear dint seem to find this anywhere.
It wasnt smoking bad, not enough smoke to get a clear look at the color but it was enough for me to take a look at it. I checked the fuel pressure it was good, forgot what it was. But the compression test came out bad on the cylinder closest to the dizzy. Also had a good amount of oil in the intake manifold, dryed up where it connects to the head.
It wasnt smoking bad, not enough smoke to get a clear look at the color but it was enough for me to take a look at it. I checked the fuel pressure it was good, forgot what it was. But the compression test came out bad on the cylinder closest to the dizzy. Also had a good amount of oil in the intake manifold, dryed up where it connects to the head.
Fan switch will be different. Make sure you use your original driver's side mount and bracket. If you use the newer intake manifold, the map sensor will be located on the top of the throttle body and the purge cut solenoid will be on the driver's side of the intake manifold. You can extend the plugs to reach these (your original ones are mounted on the firewall). If you use your original intake manifold then you're good to go.
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location on OBD1 (thermostat housing):

Location on OBD0 (back of block, two brass prong without plug in picture):

just wire up a plug to the one on the thermostat housing from the back of the block location

Location on OBD0 (back of block, two brass prong without plug in picture):

just wire up a plug to the one on the thermostat housing from the back of the block location
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