Does anyone have any experience with the trunk signal? It is the grey wire on the 8 pin harness. it is supposed to give a 1 second negative pulse.

All that mine does is give me a constant .5 volt to 1.5 volts. The button seems to do nothing :mad

Is there something I missed here?

 

Is the alarm brain properly grounded? If not it can not provide enought ground to power the alarm and ext. Also make sure your triggering the ext correctly.

 

Thanks for the tip. i will check the ground, although I have a good signal for the door lock pulse, and it is working properly.

I'm sorry,kind of nooblet on this, what is the "ext" in:

"Also make sure your triggering the ext correctly."

Thanks!

 

Sorry. Ext is a different saying for aux or auxilery.

 

MM&Y of car it is in? 94

 

The car is a 98 Honda Prelude Base model.

 

Dumb question... Are you pressing and holding the trunk release for 2 seconds? That wire is programmable for either a second unlock, or the trunk release. If its still in the factory default programming, you should just press and hold the trunk release button for two seconds, and voltage should drop to zero for one second. What are you using for your trunk popper, considering that the 98 prelude has a cable for the trunk release lever, as opposed to an electronic control... How is your meter set to test this wire?

 

98 "base model" does that mean the power trunk release is not not stock, a trunk release solenoid has been installed, is that correct?
Or did the base model come with power trunk release?

And we are talking about trunk release and not trunk alarm trigger, is that correct?

To test the system supply a ground to where the gray lead is connected, [disconnect gray lead] if trunk "pops" the EXT output, [alarms gray wire] is N/G, either a defect in the control unit or it was overloaded and has burnt out, did it ever work?

If so how, [to what] is the gray wire connected to?

I do not have an install guide for the RF-320 so I do not know, but there may be another EXT output that can be used. 94

 

Yeah, If he has a power trunk release, its def aftermarket. I used to have a right hand drive version of this car, it didn't come with power trunk. He does have a third aux output, its kinda stupid, its the same wire that is for dome supervision (I downloaded his install manual). It can be programmed for either momentary or latched.

Its the white wire in that same 8 pin harness that your grey trunk release wire is in. You must use a relay to use the white wire.

But yeah, we def need to know what you're using for you trunk release solenoid. what part number is it, who makes it...

 

Hey guys, Thanks for getting back.
1. The car did not come with the trunk release solenoid (popper). The unit is off of a 2001 Honda Accord 2dr. it bolted right on with no problem. I have tested it with 12v + and it works perfectly.

2. I bought a 5 pin standard relay thinking that I would use it to power the popper.

3.

 

Crap, accidently hit the wrong button!

3. The relay is wired as such:
12v constant to pins 30 and 85
Grey wire (momentary ground?) to pin 86
Wire to popper to pin 87

Does this sound right?

 

Well, that's part of our problem.. The trunk release trigger for the 2001 accord is a postive trigger, to a white/red wire. So, you'd have to wire that grey wire for reverse polarity.

85 - autopage grey wire
86 - fused 12v+
87 - fused 12v+
30 - to white/red wire on trunk release

 

@joeymc13...I left the button in the factory default setting. I have held it for 2 seconds about 100 times and no go. I am checking the grey wire with a ohmmeter expecting to see continuity to ground.

I also hooked it the multimeter to check DC voltage and it will drift from .5 volt to 1.6 volts for some unknown reason. it makes no difference if I hit the trunk button or not. Voltage remains the same.

Oh,and the trunk popper solenoid came off a 2001 accord 2 dr. It fits and works great.
I ran a hot 12v to it and triggered it manually and it pops perfectly.

What is the grey wire suppossed to do when i hit the trunk button and how do I set the multimeter to check it?

 

Okay, I didnt see your 3rd point till after I made my post, but yeah, I think techincally, the way you have your relay wired would still work, although, its not really the way I'd wire it up. but considering that when the coil is energized when ground is applied to throught thre grey wire, then all that does is create continuity btw pins 30 and 87, so you should be okay. How is the solenoid wired?

 

that's basically the same wiring he said you just swapped pins, in which case it doesn't matter. as long as when 85 and 86 is triggered, 87 and 30 connect.

 

make sure your grey wire is disconnected from anything. Put your positive lead to it, while in vdc setting, and your negative lead to a good ground in the car. You should have some kind of voltage showing on that wire at this point. Now, once you hold the trunk release for two seconds, that wire should drop to zero volts for a short amount of time. If not, the output is prob toasted, as fcm said. then you should consider using the 3rd aux channel if you dont have warranty on the unit to have it fixed.

 

you could test your relay wiring by tapping pin 86 on your relay setup to ground, instead of the grey wire. if it works then it's the output of the alarm, if it doesn't work then something with the relay is not working. when you meter the grey wire and hold the trunk release you should see a momentary pop to ground, but it might be faster than your meter can read...been known to happen.

 

Yeah, do that! the pin that your grey wire is going to, ground it for a second. If your trunk pops, bad output from alarm...

 

You may freak out at this, but I did not want to run a wire all the way back to the trunk so I found that there is a 12v feed wire that used to run the stock stereo amp in the trunk. Since it did nothing but run an non-existing amp, I used that wire for the 12v+ trigger. i tested it by running a 12 v jumper to it (in the fuse box) and it popped the trunk. So I figured I have that licked. Now i just need the alarm brain to give me a ground so I can fire the solenoid and get 12v to the popper.

 

Awesome,i will try this and get back to you. I have a bad feeling it is the alarm brain. I am a total newb on alarms and I probably fried something hooking up the door lock part (which BTW is working perfectly, go figure). I guess they don;t build $50 alarms they way they used!

 

Are you talking about the wire that provides power to the old acoustic feedback system? lol? There isn't anything wrong with that, once again, not a preferred install techinique, but it works...

Is the solenoid grounded to the chasis at the trunk?

So, the wire is jumped off the rear deck lid where the acoustic feedback used to be, and goes to the positive input on the solenoid. Then, the solenoid is grounded?

Now, you found that wire feeding the postive input that originally fed the stock acoustic feeback system at the fusebox, and that is going to pin 87 on your relay?

 

Hey now, the autopage unit is a nice unit! (be careful what you say, there are autopage dealers on these forums, lol! right, jacob? :p ) Anyway, if the grey isnt working right, we can make another wire work for you... Don't sweat it too bad...

 

haha...what are you talking about?? who's an autopage dealer?? oh wait...

 

Yes, it was the AFBS 12 v feed from fuse 5. I just went out and checked the solenoid and it is grounded thru the chassis thru the existing wiring for the "trunk ajar" idiot light. i checked with a multimeter and i have ground at the solenoid. Everything should be good. As long As I can get 12 v from the relay.

 

Yes, The former AFBS wire is going to the pin 87.