I replaced my master cylinder with one from pepboys that came complete with a resevoir assembled already.

1. I removed brake fluid from the resevoir by bleeding it from the passenger rear side.
2. removed the old bmc.
3. installed a new one *I DID NOT BENCH BLEED* the kit did not come with one and i have read on ht that it is not neccessary to but it will shorten your whole process of getting air out.
4. I started out bleeding RR/FL/RL/FR
Did the process using a big bottle of brake fluid for each side.
5. It brakes but it is still not safe to drive in my opinion. It feels as if it doesnt catch.

Do I really have to take everything off and bench bleed and start from step 3 again?

If I pump the brakes I can hear air for about 3 pumps until the pedal gets stiff. I'm not going to bleed the lines again as I have bleed them each with 1 full big bottle.

 

I am sorry to say i have no idea about it.Its better to consult a good technician.

 

is the car running then you are pumping three times? the car is vacuum assist so you need to have the car running. if the brake pedel feels still like crap you have air in your lines. tap on all the connection with a wrench and re-bleed everything.

There was just a road racer on HT who had to bleed his brake 15 times to get the air out of the system.

 

can someone explain how to do this with the car running?

 

u need to do the bleeding in proper sequence.

what u did was wrong. i beleive it goes furthest from the master cylinder to the closest.

wouldnt that be RR/RL/FR/FL
?

 

It is a 95 i did it the right way according to many online diy

anyone else with input, i need to get my car running

 

Lots of bleeding to get air out. Not exactly the same problem, but you can get an idea from the "Loooooong Pedal" post that is current. Aair can get trapped and it can be very difficult to get out. Not bench bleeding let air into the system in a large amount. The reason to read the post is about gravity bleeding and others experience with air.

 

so what are you suggesting, i should bleed it all the new fluid from the bmc and then take off the bmc and bench bleed then install and then continue bleeding all 4 lines over?

 

tt

 

You say that you didn't bench bleed the master cylinder... so how
did you bleed it? You probably need to bleed the master at the lines
coming from the unit itself.

Are you getting a steady stream from all 4 calipers, or
does it just dribble out?

 

I am getting a full stream of clear brake fluid. Pumped at the least a bottle per brake

 

you need to try bleeding the master cylinder at the lines coming
from the unit first. Then you could go to each line..
It sounds like you still have air.

 

Not suggesting that you take it off, just that you expect to bleed it a lot. Air is already in the lines, so bleeding the MC now may not help. I suggested the thread about Loooong Pedal because it talked about various ways to bleed.

 

may you explain how i would go about doing this?
thank you

 

bingo. you should always bench bleed AND bleed at the lines exiting the MC.
you just pressurize the unit (pump the brakes), then crack the line for the fronts. tighten. then the lines for the rear. try it a few times. if air gets caught in there when transferring the MC, it can be impossible to remove, as the placement of the MC is much higher than the bleeder screws at the calipers.

you could also use a power bleeder. that would be your best bet.

 

when you say crack the lines for the front you mean the 2 front wheels? after that do i pump the brakes or what do i do from then on?

thanks for the help

 

there should be 2 lines coming out of the MC. one ultimately goes to the fronts. other, to the rear. have someone pump the brakes (vehicle doesn't need to be running, btw). hold pedal down, crack the first line. tighten it. then crack the other. tighten it. try that a few times. it should purge any air out of the lines up top.
you can also use a power bleeder. because it hooks up at the highest point in the system, it will insure that all air is purged.

another thing that i've noticed is that sometimes it can take up to a couple days for the pedal to really firm up. i guess very small amounts of air may need time to make their way up into the reservoir and bleed off

 

ok so you want me to have my friend pump the brakes til they are firm, after that go to the master cylinder and crack the first line that is connected to the master cylinder? repeat it for a few times then move to the other brake line?

 

pump brakes. hold. crack first line. tighten. crack second line. tighten. repeat
you'll be cracking both lines with each cycle

 

alright, so crack the lines as in just loosen them or crack them completely open?

i just don't want to mess it up anymore than it is right now

 

crack them as far as you can with a single sweep.
if that doesn't work, just take it to a shop and have them power bleed the system. won't cost much at all, as the procedure only takes about 10 minutes