Turbo Prep - what else can i do.
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 211
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From: Daytona Beach, FL / Charlotte, NC
Im going to be turboing the lude soon, but until then i have been doing little things that need to be done before i install everything. All of my friends are b-series nuts so i really dont have anyone to give h-series advice or that really knows the h-series and preludes.
It is going to be a little while longer before im ready to turbo so I am wondering if there is anything else i can do to add some hp or thats needed for turbo prep.
So far i have a 2000 SH OBD2 open deck H22 with very very low miles around 30k, blocked EGR, removed balancer belt, full 2.5" Apexi n1 exhaust with no cat and dc headers, Fidanza 8lb flywheel, intake, stage2 CompetitionClutch, butterflies in the intake manifold have been removed completely i have seen some noticeable gains from that. Eibach pro's with Tokico's all around
H23 Transmission with no LSD (going to be putting final gear, carbon coated syncros and a Quaiffe LSD in the h23 tranny i like the longer gears for boost). I am tuned on neptune with 2-step it made 198whp on the best dynojet u can get, stops making power at 7800 so capped it there. couldnt ask for a better tuner!!! I am running power steering, no AC. I have light pulleys haven't put them on yet. going to install some arp head studs and thicker head gasket when time to install the turbo, prob running a garret 3076r.
Is there any way to strengthen the stock ringlands? Im going to be running stock internals until something breaks..then time to send the block to benson and go for 600+... but im afraid to go over 300 because of the lands.. i do want it to last for a little while ill be driving conservatively.
Yea i know its a giant run-on sentence lol.
So.. anything else i can do in the meantime or have i pretty much covered all of the little things.
It is going to be a little while longer before im ready to turbo so I am wondering if there is anything else i can do to add some hp or thats needed for turbo prep.
So far i have a 2000 SH OBD2 open deck H22 with very very low miles around 30k, blocked EGR, removed balancer belt, full 2.5" Apexi n1 exhaust with no cat and dc headers, Fidanza 8lb flywheel, intake, stage2 CompetitionClutch, butterflies in the intake manifold have been removed completely i have seen some noticeable gains from that. Eibach pro's with Tokico's all around
H23 Transmission with no LSD (going to be putting final gear, carbon coated syncros and a Quaiffe LSD in the h23 tranny i like the longer gears for boost). I am tuned on neptune with 2-step it made 198whp on the best dynojet u can get, stops making power at 7800 so capped it there. couldnt ask for a better tuner!!! I am running power steering, no AC. I have light pulleys haven't put them on yet. going to install some arp head studs and thicker head gasket when time to install the turbo, prob running a garret 3076r.
Is there any way to strengthen the stock ringlands? Im going to be running stock internals until something breaks..then time to send the block to benson and go for 600+... but im afraid to go over 300 because of the lands.. i do want it to last for a little while ill be driving conservatively.
Yea i know its a giant run-on sentence lol.
So.. anything else i can do in the meantime or have i pretty much covered all of the little things.
Well If you get a thicker head gasket you will need adjustable cam gears to make sure the valves open at the right time. I would suggest getting some DSM 450cc injectors and a walbro fuel pump, maybe a fuel rail too.
If your car is really well tuned and you dont ALWAYS give full throttle 9psi or so would be good ALL DAY. Thats like 280whp.
If your car is really well tuned and you dont ALWAYS give full throttle 9psi or so would be good ALL DAY. Thats like 280whp.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 211
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From: Daytona Beach, FL / Charlotte, NC
Well If you get a thicker head gasket you will need adjustable cam gears to make sure the valves open at the right time. I would suggest getting some DSM 450cc injectors and a walbro fuel pump, maybe a fuel rail too.
If your car is really well tuned and you dont ALWAYS give full throttle 9psi or so would be good ALL DAY. Thats like 280whp.
If your car is really well tuned and you dont ALWAYS give full throttle 9psi or so would be good ALL DAY. Thats like 280whp.
I wasn't aware that you need adjustable cams with a thicker gasket.. i mean that does make sense just never thought about it lol. Yea the fuel system i included in with the cost of the turbo parts. im going to do the fuel system when its time for turbo. As far as the valvetrain goes im going to leave it stock for now, but i am going to get some turbo cams. Manifolds going to be custom made, turbo is going to be facing straight out just below the bumper it will be sick. Do you think 550's would be too much? I also have MSD i need to put on.
Im looking at the crower turbo cams right now but what are some good cams for 600+? Since i need them may as well plan ahead. The Garrett 3076r is rated to 520hp so ill need to upgrade my turbo when i build.. im thinking i may as well get a cheaper turbo for now to hit near 300....thats a pricey turbo to swap out so soon. any recommendations?
Why waste money on cams? Just get better valvesprings and retainers, and use the extra money for a bigger turbo or more tuning, or the reserve fund. Or if you want more fun in the head, do a valve job and some "good" porting. Some of the highest hp H-series I know run stock cams, and they do this since they work so well.
Cliff notes: N/a power, yeah do cams, turbo, stay stock.
Cliff notes: N/a power, yeah do cams, turbo, stay stock.
450cc injectors wont be enough, i have 750cc's and they are almost maxed out... my h22 has been boosted for almost 3yrs on stock internals pushing 8.5psi and i made 350whp... your stock internals will be fine as long as the tuner knows what he is doing and you dont beat the car, the h22 head also flows better than any b-series head so dont waste your money on a port job right now, also the h22 needs atleast a 3in exhaust for it to run properly and an equal length manifold will help as well, hope this helps you and good luck
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 211
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From: Daytona Beach, FL / Charlotte, NC
Why waste money on cams? Just get better valvesprings and retainers, and use the extra money for a bigger turbo or more tuning, or the reserve fund. Or if you want more fun in the head, do a valve job and some "good" porting. Some of the highest hp H-series I know run stock cams, and they do this since they work so well.
Cliff notes: N/a power, yeah do cams, turbo, stay stock.
Cliff notes: N/a power, yeah do cams, turbo, stay stock.
fastbb2, 750cc for 350whp that seems like a lot of fuel?? just to be on the safe side i want to keep the hp little lower like around 300. I do have a very good tuner couldn't ask for better. What turbo are you running?
Thanks for the advice.
i have a garrett t3 60-1 with a .63a/r housing, if your going after 600+whp then go with 1200cc's, your tuner should be able to compensate the fuel maps for that size when he sends you a base map
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Idk, stock injectors should handle 8psi no problem. 450cc should handle 12-15psi no problem, And I heard alot that if its open deck block, that the sleeves can crack.
Did you say you wanna push 600whp on stock internals???????
Did you say you wanna push 600whp on stock internals???????
axles are a big weak point on preludes, i my self have broken 3 sets, im going with gatoraxles, stock injectors i believe are around 340cc so turbobb2 will need bigger injectors.
just found this chart on injectors hope this help everyone, i believe its for a B-series but should help everyone out trying to figure out what size injector they may need
240cc/min (stock): 170-180whp
310cc/min: 200-240whp
370cc/min: 250-275whp
440cc/min: 300-325whp
550cc/min:350-375whp
650cc/min: 400-425whp
750cc/min: 450-475whp
1000cc/min: 600whp
1200cc/min: 700whp
1600cc/min: 850whp
240cc/min (stock): 170-180whp
310cc/min: 200-240whp
370cc/min: 250-275whp
440cc/min: 300-325whp
550cc/min:350-375whp
650cc/min: 400-425whp
750cc/min: 450-475whp
1000cc/min: 600whp
1200cc/min: 700whp
1600cc/min: 850whp
I have ran the stock axles( 178K on them) for over 4 years well over 300 passes. I just had my first issue a few weeks ago. The axle didn't break it pulled out of the diff. I found it sitting right agaisnt the edge of the diff so when I went to burnout it ground the end of the joint off into the trans. IMO Most people either can't/dont know how to proprely set up and drive the car. That's why people brake axle's on basic I/H/E build's let alone the built build's. It's not about high dollar suspension as I use ground control coilovers and tokico struts.
Last edited by md23vtec; Oct 24, 2010 at 08:01 AM.
just found this chart on injectors hope this help everyone, i believe its for a B-series but should help everyone out trying to figure out what size injector they may need
240cc/min (stock): 170-180whp
310cc/min: 200-240whp
370cc/min: 250-275whp
440cc/min: 300-325whp
550cc/min:350-375whp
650cc/min: 400-425whp
750cc/min: 450-475whp
1000cc/min: 600whp
1200cc/min: 700whp
1600cc/min: 850whp
240cc/min (stock): 170-180whp
310cc/min: 200-240whp
370cc/min: 250-275whp
440cc/min: 300-325whp
550cc/min:350-375whp
650cc/min: 400-425whp
750cc/min: 450-475whp
1000cc/min: 600whp
1200cc/min: 700whp
1600cc/min: 850whp
if you are going to put arp head bolts in while you have the head off think about a block guard. that will help to keep the cylinder walls from flexing from the boost. i would go with some bigger injectors for sure. even for the 300 mark. you don't want to lean it out.
the dsm injectors will work ok, if you run an fmu... but if he gets tuned then like bigblockh22 said it will run lean there fore he will need the extra cc's, the tuner will stop if he sees the engine running lean...
md23vtec- I am only going by what i hear and what i have experienced, knowing how to preload on the axles does help alot, suspension on helps with traction and the 60' times or getting around corners during autocross which im sure you are aware of, just putting it up here so other people know
md23vtec- I am only going by what i hear and what i have experienced, knowing how to preload on the axles does help alot, suspension on helps with traction and the 60' times or getting around corners during autocross which im sure you are aware of, just putting it up here so other people know
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 211
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From: Daytona Beach, FL / Charlotte, NC
Ill definitely be looking around for some
97ludedude - I have heard good and bad things about block guards so i wasnt sure, i actually started a thread on it to find out if i should install one.. and i have decided not to. besides when i build im going to sleeve it anyway, theres no way im going to break the sleeves pushing 300.
md23vtec thanks for chiming in you know your H. How is your ride doing lately?
I have had bad luck with axles but not because of installation... i received a defective one.. it broke going around a fast corner...had it rebuilt... broke again within a week... replaced it...broke doing burnout!?.. had it rebuilt at a different place and its been two years now.. im really starting to not like advance auto.... ive had so many defective parts from them... i bought a red top optima battery and after THREE swap outs because the battery was defective..id install it next day it would be dead and wouldn't charge (they couldnt believe it and thought it was my fault and my prelude was just killing the batteries.. lol?) i finally got a good one.. turns out half of them on their shelves were bad!.. im not even going to get into the other times... I know that its not really their fault its the manufacturer... but then again ive never received a bad part form autozone... hmmmm
lol no i dont want to blow it up pointlessly... im going for around 300 just to have some fun for a while and when that breaks, sleeve build and go for 600+
Ill definitely be looking around for some
97ludedude - I have heard good and bad things about block guards so i wasnt sure, i actually started a thread on it to find out if i should install one.. and i have decided not to. besides when i build im going to sleeve it anyway, theres no way im going to break the sleeves pushing 300.
md23vtec thanks for chiming in you know your H. How is your ride doing lately?
I have had bad luck with axles but not because of installation... i received a defective one.. it broke going around a fast corner...had it rebuilt... broke again within a week... replaced it...broke doing burnout!?.. had it rebuilt at a different place and its been two years now.. im really starting to not like advance auto.... ive had so many defective parts from them... i bought a red top optima battery and after THREE swap outs because the battery was defective..id install it next day it would be dead and wouldn't charge (they couldnt believe it and thought it was my fault and my prelude was just killing the batteries.. lol?) i finally got a good one.. turns out half of them on their shelves were bad!.. im not even going to get into the other times... I know that its not really their fault its the manufacturer... but then again ive never received a bad part form autozone... hmmmm
Ill definitely be looking around for some
97ludedude - I have heard good and bad things about block guards so i wasnt sure, i actually started a thread on it to find out if i should install one.. and i have decided not to. besides when i build im going to sleeve it anyway, theres no way im going to break the sleeves pushing 300.
md23vtec thanks for chiming in you know your H. How is your ride doing lately?
I have had bad luck with axles but not because of installation... i received a defective one.. it broke going around a fast corner...had it rebuilt... broke again within a week... replaced it...broke doing burnout!?.. had it rebuilt at a different place and its been two years now.. im really starting to not like advance auto.... ive had so many defective parts from them... i bought a red top optima battery and after THREE swap outs because the battery was defective..id install it next day it would be dead and wouldn't charge (they couldnt believe it and thought it was my fault and my prelude was just killing the batteries.. lol?) i finally got a good one.. turns out half of them on their shelves were bad!.. im not even going to get into the other times... I know that its not really their fault its the manufacturer... but then again ive never received a bad part form autozone... hmmmm
As far as autozone axels, consider the ammount of labor you have in removing the axle three times for a defective part. That alone would have sold me on getting refund and calling up DSS. the rebuild is only as good as the rebuilder... people who make less then a dollar a day cannot possibly care if you axel is within spec.
If you're interested i have a set of 1000cc for sale. I picked them up for my build that never happened so they're just sitting here collecting dust. $250 and they're yours and you're set for 600 whp.
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