My hatch keeps overheating, each time it seems to be because my fan won't come on, I've been through 4 fan switches, two mishimoto and two duralast, but IDK what else it could be each time everything if fine except the switch, I jump the connector and the fan spins.

 

BUMP

 

Maybe your thermostat in general...

 

Hmmm, I'll check it, I've changed it twice as well, could it still be the thermostat if the fan runs though?

 

Try the fan relay then.

 

The power window relay and the fan relay are the same so I switched them, and they both run the power window but neither runs the fan, also doesn't jumping the connector test it?

 

No, not necessarily but the switch of the relays proves it. Then again, relays are finicky. Like my wiper relay. It wouldn't work for crap, worked fine and now won't run intermittent setting correctly and they only turn off at the bottom if you switch it to off when they're in that position, ahah.

But I'm stumped.

 

Instead of keep replacing the fan switches, you can do the boil test with a thermometer and multimeter.

http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html

 

Also, when the fan comes on by jumping the connector to the thermo-switch, does the fan spin fast? If it doesn't spin fast and kind of powerfully, the fan motor may be on it's way out.

The link I posted above has a lot of info. which may help you.

 

I did check the fan relay or any damage, cut, burn wire connections..

 

You should have concluded that the fan switch was not the problem way before buying four new ones.

-Does the fan run continuously when the 2P switch connector is jumped?
-Have you properly bled the cooling system?
-Have you replaced the thermostat or the radiator?
-Have you ruled out a blown head gasket?

 

-The fan runs continously with the 2p connector jumped
-I've bled the cooling system the best I can, but since the fan won't run can't do it exactly to the FSM
-I have changed the thermostat last time this happened before I replaced the fan switch a few months ago
-I'm not entirely sure on what to do to rule out a blown headgasket, there is no oil in the coolant, coolant in the oil, no smoking, no milky substance under the oil cap. I did a compression test a few months ago as well and all cylinders were within 10psi of each other although I don't remember the exact numbers

 

ways to check existing parts...

- put you thermostat in HOT water and see if it opens
- check grounds
- leakdown test
- bleed the coolant system the proper way (cap off, warm engine, tilted backwards somewhat if you still have a heater core)

 

Had the car block tested today, it was fine so no blown hg. Also had the cooling system pressure tested as well, it was fine too.

 

They tested the fan power as well and said it had ground but no power. They checked the wire coming from the fan motor, but the fan runs with the 2p connector jumped so this can't be correct could it?

 

If the fan runs with the connector jumped, then the circuit is fine.

 

Ok, thats what I thought, so is it possible that all these fan switches are just bad?

 

Seems highly unlikely given that you have replace it four times.

I can't help but think there's still air trapped in the cooling system.

 

bleed it again mang

 

I'll try and bleed it again, but how long should I let it run since the fan won't come on? or should it come one once I finish bleeding?

 

Bump bled again on an incline, w/ the cap off fan still doesn't work so I turned it off before it overheated.

 

did the temp rise above normal before u turned it off? may take like 20 mins before the fan kicks on, u can also rev the engine to get it to come on sooner but keep ur eye on the temp gauge

 

Yeah I let it go above where it used to turn on then shut it off

 

BUMP, bled it again today, let it run til it overheated and shut it off still no fan

 

I know this doesn't help much but I am having the same problem with my B16A swap in my EK. The only other thing I could think of is to replace the coolant temp sensor. That MIGHT help; no guarantees. Best of luck.