im new into the honda world but i have several buddies who been in it for awhile. i was an army mechanic for 4 years and i know quite alot about cars. i have a 2006 cobalt ss ( i know, i know, its a cobalt) fully built bottom and top end with a precision sc61 turbo running on e85 but i need a better daily driver that gets better mpg and i dont have to use a quarter tank to get to a station that sells e85. i built the engine and did all the work myself so im not a newbie to engine building. i recently purchased a 91 crx si shell and a b18c which i plan on building for a dd. im just curious as to what kind of whp i could be looking at with these parts on a b18c. Im using a skunk2 megapower header and skunk2 megapower exhaust.

(what i have so far for the top end)
ported and polished head
skunk2 tuner series stage 2 cams
skunk2 intake manifold
skunk2 70mm throttle body
skunk2 high comp valves
skunk2 tuner series springs and retainers
skunk2 composite fuel rail
skunk2 cam gears
Precision 440 cc injectors

(whats on order/planned for the bottom end)
wiseco pistons 81mm 11.8:1 (opinions on this)?
Manley h-beam rods (opinions on this)?
arp head studs (ordered)
cometic head gasket .030" (opinions on this)?

Im really contemplating on going with the brain crower 2.2 stroker kit for the bottom end. i have the head sorted out and all the parts for it. im really just looking for opinions/ideas on what would be best for the bottom end for daily driving. Also, how should i go about tuning. theres a guy in my city that uses eCtune and is suppose to be pretty awesome at what he does. So im thinking of going that route. and lastly what transmission would be best for this setup.

 

why not build a single cam instead if you want better MPG?
its lighter than gsr and with a turbo could still get you decent power.
i sense that your bad gas mileage might come from your foot not from your engine

with gsr you risk getting used to honda and selling your cobalt

 

naw i love my cobalt because i have the only lsj turbo swap balt making over 500whp where i live. gas mileage on e85 sucks ***** period. plus it was my first car and i purchased it with my iraq tour money and i built it myself. and its paid off and i couldnt get 1/4 of the money i put in it back if i sold it. i really just wanted an all motor crx. i drove my buddies 454whp b18c hatch a few times so i know hondas aint nothing to laugh at especially on decent boost. still makes him mad when i pull from a roll lol. but if he turned the boost up 2-3psi i know itd be the other way around. i plan on building myself a turbo hatch next summer so i figured an all motor b18c in a light shell would be a good start to my collection lol.

 

you should check out civic hatch crash test lol. i changed my mind after watching it.besides beeing called a death trap get an integra RS they lighter than type-R

 

well i thought of that too because im in love with the jdm front end on a teg. ive been looking for a teg shell or something here locally but no luck yet.

 

u should try part throttle tunning on ur cobalt

 

?

 

He means if you get the partial throttle/medium load maps tuned a little better, you may see a significant improvement in mpg.

Sounds like your on the right track with your honda build. Personally I think you should sleeve and bore the block to around 84mm and go with a 92mm stroke. Not as much sideloading on the cylinders as a 95mm, but more usable TQ than the stock 87mm crank.
The builds Ive seen using 92mm cranks has convinced me to go this route on my build...

If you decide to go with a stock stroke build, Id stick w/ oem rods with arp rod bolts. Its pretty amazing how much stock rods can hold up to. Ive personally pushed them to 9400 rpms on a few occasions.
Cometic makes pretty good gaskets. Only issue Ive had with them is the dowel pin holes had to be enlarged slightly...
Manley makes good rods. Never heard a bad thing about them...
As far as tuning goes, use whatever your local tuner suggests. If hes comfortable with ECTune, go for it. Id also suggest running a wideband on board at all times. Just a little safety precaution..
With the parts listed and some good tuning, theres no reason you cant hit well over 200 whp. Of course all dynos read a little different so dont stress the numbers too much. A built 1.8 liter in a light *** crx should be able to hit 12's no problem...
A 2 liter or a stroker should be even quicker. Theres plenty of 11 second all motor crx's around...
As far as compression goes, Id stick to around 12.0:1 give or take a few tenths. This is what most high compression daily drivers run, of course youll get some that claim 13:1, but thats starting to push it if you ask me...

 

Actually a stock GSR with a mildly built head would be a nice daily driver. The closer it is to stock, the less headaches youll probably have. But if your used to 500whp, its gonna feel really slow...

 

1. Great choice on compression for streetability/tuning ease. However at that compression I don't see the need for the forged pistons. You can make a few more ponies on the tighter piston to cylinder clearance of oem pistons.
2. Someone went skunk2 crazy....lol
3. Could use some slightly bigger cams but the ones you have are a step in the right direction
4. H beam rods are more marketed for boost. Go with lightweight I-beams if you feel its necessary to upgrade.
5. Ehhhhh id go with more bore than stroke. Rs ratio would be greatly affected without custom pistons/rods.

 

Or go with skunk2 header, injectors, rods, pistons, rings, bearings, crank, tuning, wheels, tires, suspension...

 

its funny you say that. today i ordered the skunk2 full pro-s coilover kit, skunk2 lower control arms and bar, and skunk2 lug nuts. but i did go with arp extended wheel studs. anyone seem to figure out the theme here lol. And im thinking for the wheels im gonna go with drag dr-44 gold with the machined lip.

 

What bore size are you planning to run for the daily driver

 

well ive spent a little more money than i thought i had so looks like the block is just getting freshened up so im not messing with it now. Just gonna get this head finished and get the block cleaned up and hone the cylinders and rebuild it this weekend.

any suggestions with the trans. i can get a b16 trans for 250 from my buddy thats only got 4x,xxx something miles on it. it came out of a 2000 si. most likely thats what im going with.

 

$250 for a b16 trans is a pretty good deal, however if your putting it inthe crx, youll need a conversion kit since the crx uses a cable for the clutch. The 2000 si tranny is a hydro clutch tranny.Someone makes a kit, but I forgot who. Maybe HASport?

 

My homie has a DA teg for sale or for trade