So, I'm fixing to roll over the 10,000 mile mark on my built gsr since summer time, I've got 5k on my current head (switched out from stock). She's my daily and I just switched to E85 and running it when I can access the tank a half hour from my house.. I'll also be putting on a 50 shot this week so I can play with some big boys..

But any who, post what you have and the mileage, realistically if everything is tuned wonderfully can anything fail on me? I've got h-beams, bottom end was plastigauged, rings were gapped accordingly and everything else is fresh.

Cliff notes: I broke it in hard and switched to full synthetic after 500-1000 miles, I've been to two track days, a hard evening at the drag strip... and countless nights out racing my buddies. If I check my valve lash and it's out of spec will that tell me anything? or is it just maintenance?

More: I went from rp, and two oil changes with the US bs Castrol Edge

 

after 15k check your titanium retainers...for wear...

 

im also interested in this along with what oils people run. I know alot of hotrod guys run delo 400 diesel oil due to a higher zinc content. any input on this?

 

FWIW

I broke in my built b20vtec , stock sleeves hard.. after 500 miles changed to mobil1.

Ran great for 10 months.. until my clutch split in half and unbalanced my motor.. it'd be running still right now.. i drove it about 40 miles a day and tracked it every weekend.

 

can't tell you how long it'll last it isn't done. but til it blows is my expectancy.

as for oil mobil1. and redline mtl70w80 for tranny.

 

till it goes boom. but if you put in the work....remove valve cover check springs/retainers valve lash etc....remove oil pan so you can check out the bottom end on a regular basis you will be able to tell when things need to be replaced.

 

one more day... and the same next day

 

depends on how bad you beat on it.
i used brad penn green oil. super good stuff. only from online .
the bad thing is is that its green....you dont see coolant if you have coolant in it.

 

Mobil 1 sucks. Ever notice how it burns more than other synthetics? It is one of the lowest grade full suns u can get. German castrol syntec and amsoil come to mind as superior oils.

 

Bobistheoilguy.com is a great reference for used oil analysis and breakdown of different oils and their additives packages.

 

20k on my mild build b16a without a hiccup. Used German Castrol and Amsoil HDDO the entire time. RM tit retainers show no wear either. Now going to use the same head on a 1.8.

 

castrol syntec edge here.....over 80k on one motor and 1,800 on the other...

 

also, post what cams/valvetrain, and what you rev too and how frequent! :thumbUP:

 

if you have ti retainers that's a wear item. forged pistons also seem to eat rings faster than cast. probably due to the larger PWC. other than that if you have crazy cams they will wear the valvetrain faster than oem but you expect that with higher lifts, bigger springs and more rpm. the last built motor i had only made it 10k but it was due to the shop not knowing how to setup and degree cams.

 

15,000 miles on my 252hp h series dd. I use what ever oil is on sell lol. It gets 35 miles to the gallon and runs 12.3 at the track. I have tones of track time and track events on this car and no hicups. I got it retunned about two months ago i put on a bigger throttle body and changed the exaust a little. It put out same horse power but added 500 more rpms then it did 15,000 miles ago . It was also 40 degrees cooler last time so actualy its making more hp now then it was. Im running skunk2 stage2 cams on stock type s valve train reving to 8000 maybe 8500 every now and then .

 

I see a lot of people suggesting mobil one engine oil. I thought i was just reading about mobil one not containing zinc anymore?

Isn't zinc what made mobil one so great anyway?

Anyway good info in here, let's keep it coming.

 

I call B.S. on stock valve springs reving to 8500 with stage 2 cams and 35mpg. Maybe youre one lucky guy that gets away with it butt its hard to believe it.
GL

 

TOO much zinc can be a bad thing.. but mobil1 still contains zinc..
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

 

For the price, Mobil 1 is garbage compared to other alternative oils. Correct, too much zinc can gum things up. But if the zinc unit values in the link you hosted up are in ppm, then the zinc levels are inadequate for flat tappet rocker arms. 1200-1500 ppm is the recommend zinc content for motors with flat tappet rocker arms.
Not only is Mobil 1 low on zinc, it's also low on phosphorus, which is also another anti friction additive

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...=474862&page=1

 

I said stock type s and i reved my f20b passed 9000 for three years with the same springs, do some research there great springs even for stock before you call bull ****. I have made over 50 passes at the track we several times missing gears no problem . I will say that i cut my valve reliefs so my valves want touch period but if a stock f20b will rev pass 9000 for years ( no reason to do this i was young and thought it was cool way back then ) then why wouldnt this motor rev to 8500? Just because you dont understand doesnt make it so sir . I have a set of skunk2 springs and crower springs sitting at the shop but why put a heavier spring on my valve that takes more to push it down which takes horse power away when whats on it works just fine . If i told you the simple set up im running to make 252hp you would call bull **** on that also its all about knowing what your doing which i happen to do . I went as far as cut a head in half so i can bolt it to the block install my cams lock my vtec in turn the motor over and feeler gauge my clearnces i have a video if you would like to see . I hate claying a motor screw that try this way much more effective you can see were your cams wick and everything but thanks for the concern . I can rev my motor to what ever i want to it has enough clearnce that nothing will ever touch unless the timing gets off and my valves grab each other besides that im good. I took a valve welded up the end and cut it back down ( made a cutting tool out of it) so i can bolt my half a head up there with the cutter valve in it and use a drill to cut my valve reliefs perfect . my dad helps me alot he is realy good with **** like this . Im the honda genius and since he has gotten into it we have started realy putting some stuff together . He drives this car everyday we built it for a dd keep a look out for my race motor you will be supprised even on this site with all these high hp cars. I even order h22 pistons to run on my h23 cranks because of were the rist pin hole is i can run a flat top piston and still run high compression .a flat top piston always runs better then a dome piston. I made that power on a stock h22 throttle body and intake . We did do a little work to intake . Seriously man i share everything i know with everybody to help the sport i would never lie and hurt someones motor . I have also used the same head gasket for the last five builds with copper head gasket spray you are more then welcome to call bull **** on that to but its the truth. We took a tone of weight off the rocker stock rocker arms and added a 70mm throttlebody last month and gained 500 more rpms on the dyno same hp. Scottie at main stream in georgia does all my tunning and he can conform everything im telling you . You ever wonder why two of the same builds one makes alot more power then the other its because of the little things and thats what we pay attention to. I do own a shop its called southern speed been open for 5 years i dont pay to advertise on here so out of consideration for the people that do pay i dont advertise not to mention i just couldnt handle any more work then i got right now.

 

Also it gets 35 miles to the gallon with my dad driving and if you will do your research unlike the pro series cams the tuner series have stock non vtec lobes ( which is why we chose them for a dd) so as long as your not in vtec its a stock cam . So is it that hard to beleive you can tune a car to get 35 miles to the gallon with a stock cam spec ? I cant drive it without hitting vtec so probably 9 miles to the gallon with me lmao.

 

84.5X89 GSR block/ ported head/ ls crank
14:1 compression
E-85
Rocket M25x
Rocket valvetrain
rods/pistons

I've been daily driving this setup for over 2 years now, registered about 37-38k miles, getting 30 mpg, plenty of pulls on the streets and at the track.

 

^^ nice, what all do you check for wear, and intervals? Have you dropped your pan to check your bearings yet?

 

well that will alll go down as cars advance. you have to remember just because its the right weight doesn't really mean it was made for our 17 year old cars in mind. they're building em for new cars where the wear and tolerances is a lot smaller and less then it is now. and probably not needed.

i imagine somewhere down the line i'll switch motor oil over. but for now it works.

 

I can vouch for f20b jones. the motor is in my old EG.