I bought some Energy Suspension shifter bushings part #16.1102R with the hopes of fixing all the play in my shifter. However the bushings are much to large. This is supposed to be the right part number for a 93 Honda VX, but the size of the bushings in no way match up with the stock shifter.

The longer bushing with the 3 holes looks to be correct. It's the two round ones that are off.

Has anyone else with a VX had this problem? If so, what's the right part number for me?

Thanks

 

the shifter part itself? ( like the lever inside the car that you use to shift)

or the part the bolts onto the tranny bracket?

the energy suspension one i bought has the large 3 holed one and the one that bolts to the transmission.

 

All '92 - '00 Civics should take the same bushings (except the '99 - '00 Si)

 

I got a full kit for my 93 Sol, and it came with a shifter kit that included 2 bushings and a sleave for D series engines, and a much larger single one for B series. (also only one bushing for under the selector) Maybe you just got the wrong one. They are next to each other on their page, and are only like $9 per kit.

Edit, and installing the front was a BITCH! I had to rig a press tool out of a bolt, nuts, washers, and large sockets. So, if its close, but don't seem to fit, then you have the right ones, but need to press them in. If they are waaay to small, you need the B kit.

 

I got mine off of e-bay. The kit came 2 bushings and a metal sleeve. But those were to large. So the single bushing for the B series would be way off. Is it possible that my shifter linkage was replaced sometime down the road? The car has 320k on it, but it also has the original clutch. So I would think everything is stock.

Also the bushings that were under the car appeared to be much thinner than the ones in the 16.1102R kit. They were smaller and thinner by about 30-50%.

 

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...y5=SHIFT+LEVER

Are you doing #15, or #5?

Cause its for #15, so i'm just makin sure..
If so, then you may want to ask the seller if they gave you the right set. most are good about exchanges.

 

ES sends bushings for the linkage to tranny mount that fit the 96-00 SIs and the non/SIs all in one kit. Make sure you're using the non/SI bushings.

Use your instructions that came with the kit.

EDIT: I did it 6 months ago, so I actually could be wrong but I swear my kit came with an extra bushing for the B series SI as well.

 

I basically shoved on my linkage for about on hour until I got enough of it into the mount haha. Back one was also a bitch. Tightest hole if I've ever seen one.

 

Nope I'm going for the linkage right under the shifter itself. So #5 connecting into the # 13 rod. That thing is completely worn out. It has about a 1/4" - 3/8" of play on each side. When I shift to 2nd gear sometimes it wants to go into 4th.

So It seems I got the right shifter kit, but what I really need is the #5 bushings.

So what's my solution?

 

put # 15 in up front (use the bolt, nuts, washers method to press it in, and use some lube they sent you). Put the "cross bar" bushing (#19) in and use the old metal sleeves and bottom metal plate when you replace it or it wont work right, and will never seem to tighten up.

Then check your play. If its still bad, I think I've seen posts say people replace either 7,8 or 11, but I can't remember which. (I only did the ES shifter kit, not that end)

If your OEM bushings for #5 are shot, order from that page, or call your local Stealership and replace those with OEM. That should help stiffen it too.

 

If I want to pull out the # 2 shifter rod can I do so by first unscrewing the #3 shifter **** and then just removing the # 27 & 24 bolts? From there does the rod just slide out from the bottom? Or do I need to remove the #14 rod too? I'm worried because it's super rusty and the #24 and 27 bolt won't budge. I was thinking I could cut off the #27 and 24 bolts with a dremel. Pull out the #2 rod, replace the bushings, and then reinstall with new hardware.

Ideas?

 

Not sure, but if you were going to do all that, why not buy a short shifter, then you dont have to mess with the #5s (i think they come with) and yeah, don't worry too much if you break/cut/strip that bolt, get em at Home Depot or Ace etc. (coated so it prevents rust)

Check the FAQ, or do a search on short shifter install in this forum, as thats what you are practically doing now.

 

I would get a short shift, but I´m stressed for money. I was just hoping that I wouldn't have to remove a lot of stuff while I was down there.

 

Okay I was looking around on e-bay and I found some shifters for under $20 including shipping. Does anyone have any experience with these? Is there a particular one to go with, or should I stay away from the no-name brand stuff?

Also, what's the difference between the ones with a bend, and the straight ones?

 

Okay so I'm going to install a short shifter in my car but I need to have the correct replacement bolts before I do. Mine are completely rusted and will more than likely break or strip. I already know that I'll have to cut one off.

So my question is; what's the correct size replacement bolts for the rear shifter mounts? I already know metric 12mm, but I don't know the length or thread per inch.
I think the correct TPI on these bolts are the most important because they go into the frame.

I'm also going to replace the rusted bolts that hold the pivot retainer hardware in place. I have no idea what size or TPI I will need. I think 8mm, but I'm not positive.

While I'm down there I'm going to replace the bushings with some Energy suspension. I might now have to replace the front 12mm bolt, but just in case what's the length for that one?

Thanks!

 

I'm just curious for everyone option on this. I know that these are probably both crap shifters, but I can't afford much more.

So what which one would you go with?

#1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Or..

#2

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

 

I dont know, but I wouldn't think its too bad as long as the lower part of it matches the OEM one. like how the bushings line up at the bottom, and the length matches.

If they have a high EBAY rating with tons of sales, they probably have parts that work (check their comments)

Its probably cheaper than buying the OEM bushings so try it for a month or two, and if you don't like it get the Honda bushings.

BUT, I just realized, if you don't have that lower bolt out, and the bushings are still in. why not finish the ES bushing install, and see if you like it that way? (not sure about where you are in this) I found it MUCH better and precise shifts with it installed.

And/Or get the parts from that site if you are afraid you are going to strip something. this is the EASIEST way to be sure parts match. if you know your bolts etc, you could probbly get them all at a hardware store.

Also, use TONS of PB blaster, and TIME to soak in. It may take several times, and letting it soak in for at least an hour or so but it will get those old rusted bolts to budge most of the time. Dont torque too much or you WILL break a bolt, and then will have to dig it out later etc..

Just my experience so far...

Good luck!

 

Thanks!
I'm going to go with the B & M Shifter #45047. So many people said not to get an e-bay one because they can break. I'm sure they break from people abusing them. I'm not racing my car, and my shifts are slow and easy, but I'd like to get my car to 500k miles. 320k right now with the original clutch!

 

If you can't get the seller to send you the right part, I'll trade you straight up. I got a master kit and have the correct bushing for the D series that goes on the transmission. I only mess with B series now, so it'd work for both of us. PM me if you are interested.

The B&M shifter is a nice piece. It is a little shorter than the stock shifter and the longer bottom section gives a very nice throw. It's solid stainless so it's very durable and looks sharp. Though not required, I would recommend polishing the ball with some very very fine sandpaper since there are some lines from machining. I installed one having not did this and it was a little stiff for a couple months. The second one I installed, having polished it, felt smoother.

Before digging in too far, check your linkage. The bolt going through the lower part of the shifter sometimes rusts up, as well as the part that goes through the shifter. It's like a piece of pipe with I believe 4 O-rings, and on my car it rusted up and had to buy a new one from Honda since it's a special part you can't get elsewhere. While you're at it, get a the plastic and rubber parts as well as the nuts and bolts for the linkage. If you take the shifter off, a new roll pin may be a good idea, it's only like $1. Putting a longer taper on the pin by using a file makes it easier to get it started.

 

Also the eBay shifters are ok if you get a steel one. Most are china pot-luck metal...probably lead filled junk they make toys from. If you must be cheap, you can cut your OEM shifter and extend the bottom section. Draw a line on the side, cut, find a bolt that fits inside (the OEM shifter is hollow), line up the lines and weld or braze back together (don't JB Weld or epoxy)