I'm planning on re-building my engine and was wondering what my options are?
Its my daily driver as well. I have been searching the forums on possible engine combo's but all I end up with is confusion what i'm after is a really strong all motor setup. I want to be able to safely squeeze as much out of my B18C1 as I can and still maintain decent gas mileage. I know i'm about to contradict my self here but I do have a complete turbo kit packed away in the garage that i'm thinking about using. It's a small kit, set up for 5-6 psi. So when i do rebuild the engine should I use some better pistons and rings?

What are my options?
Here are a few pictures of my daily driver.

 

Can I turn my engine into a B18C5?

 

you can do a lot but a low boost setup needs nothing. if you're going boost just rebuild with oem bearings, rings, gaskets etc. the only mod you might make is going to a single runner manifold like the skunk/blox. it's easier to tune a turbo car on one and they are normally worth a bit of hp over the stock gsr manifold. if you're engine is in decent condition and the block isn't too tweaked you can just follow the color codes stamped in it and buy the exact bearings from honda. reuse your pistson, new rings, new hone. the new hone slightly increases your piston to wall clearance but that's actually a good thing for a boosted engine. on the top end absolutely replace all 8 exhaust valves. you can reuse the intakes, have the guides checked for wear and replaced as needed. it's also a good time to buy 8 ITR yellow intake springs and the inners. install those on your intake side and move your current gsr springs to the exhaust. this will give you a couple hundred more rpm of valvetrain stability for very little money.

by the way, what happened to that poor car? it looks like someone went wild with the paint gun

 

How would your turn your B18C1 into a B18C5?

Sorry, but your best luck to making it close to a B18C5 is putting a B16A head w/ ITR cams and you have yourself a Poor mans R.

It's murdered out lol.

 

only in name. finding a pr3 head when you own a p72 head is a complete waste of time and money. the term poor mans R also came from the early 2000s when it actually made sense. now with jdm itr engines selling for 2500 shipped they truly are the low cost way to own an R motor and a real one at that.

you just start adding up values

worn out gsr engine complete would sell for $700

new bearings, hone, exhaust valves, gaskets, intake manifold, rings, valve job, seals, springs roughly $ 1200 and that's if he does the work assembling the motor himself. add $400 for the shop to put it all together. we're at $1600 + 700 which means he's in it $2300 to rebuild the gsr and this is assuming the bottom end isn't out of true and the cylinders aren't out of round. the deck will probably need to be shaved, they usually warp, so that's 50 bucks. still haven't talked about 200+k mile LMA's which are probably grooved. replacing these will push him over the cost of that jdm itr. so, a poor mans R it is not.

 

I'm liking the satin black look!

 

Yeah, but I was just answering his question from saying "Can I turn my engine into a B18C5?". A poor-mans R will be the closest to anything of that a genuine B18C5/R has.

I get your point though, why get a PR3 head (B16A) when a P72 head flows nearly alike. A PR3 from an ITR should be a different result though since it's mild ported.

 

not a lot, few cfm probably, the port work is so minor you could duplicate it with a die grinder, few cartridge rolls and about an hour. all honda did was a basic bowl blend.

that and nothing is poor about the build, that's just an outdated term from back in the day when there was truth in it

 

Sounds good to me. I guess I'll start my shopping list. Is it true that I should get pistons with a little lower compression if I go FI?

 

Not necessarily. That has become a common misconception now a days. Every one thinks you have to run low compression for boost. In reality thats not the case. Running low compression in a boosted motor just increases your margin for error and doesnt require as advanced tuning to run properly. But high compression and boost is where you wil make a lot of power but on the down side your will have a very small margin for error and it will need to be tuned extensively. That is the main reason people like low compression for boost. High compression ia actually better, but you really have to know what your doing.

 

Alright good thanks for the quick answer. Well looks like ill just rebuild my engine as stated above and go boosted. It should be a fun little daily driver when I'm done. Whats safe 6-7 PSI?

 

how much did that turbo kit cost you?
how much hp will u hit on 6-7 psi ?

 

bingo

in short this means your stock gsr pistons are a good place to stay

 

Picked it up for about $900.00 intercooler piping cast iron manifold and T3/T4 turbo

 

Are any of the B18C1 engine overhaul kits that I have seen on ebay Good?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-01...#ht_3043wt_939

 

In short...probably not. I would only use oem honda parts. www.acuraoemparts.com you can get everything you need for the technicians price. Its like a 30% discount. Best of luck to you. I've told many people this and I intend to keep telling people this because its a fact. Oem Honda Parts are the best you will find quality wise because honda has to warranty all of their parts. Any aftermarket company can just write off a parts failure by saying that there is no expressed warranty for what ever reason.

 

i would get some head studs since you are going boost so ARP head studs from a vendor on here is like 100 bucks shipped then get all OEM stuff you will be good

 

Alright Noted: Adding ARP headstuds to my list.

 

Just curious, but how much WHP are you trying to reach?

 

I'm shooting for whatever a fresh stock B18C1 with 6-7 pounds of boost will produce I guess. what do you guys think? 200HP at the wheels?

 

6-7 lbs on a T3/T4 turbo will produce you about 200-230WHP, depending on what gas and how well the tune is.

 

Is "Chrome" a good tune or whats recommended?

 

depends on the spec of the turbo/manifold/exhaust setup and tuning...but 6-7psi can yield up to 250+whp on a stock GSR engine.

 

i would use ectune, hondata or neptune...but anything out there will work as long as your tuner is good and knows what they are doing.

 

Alright, roger on that. I think the guy that will end up tuning my car (Jason Whitfield) from Rage performance works with Hondata as well.