mini-me - Do I use a D15 or D16 head gasket?
had to go with the 1.5 because it was cheaper. $18 opposed to 35 and seeing *** theyre interchangeable i dont see any prob. goin at it hopefully all goes well. thanks guys
well the 18 buck one is a graphite, u should b buyin the 35 which is a three layer metal gasket. The graphite ones are like cardboard and they suck, take it back and get the metal one.
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ok thanks. i might end up replacing the head gasket with the good one anyway.. i didnt have a torque wrench handy at the time so i just tightened the head studs as tight as i could and its leaking oil tremendously. i now have a torque wrench so tomorrow im going to tighten it to specs and if it still leaks ill replace it, if not ill keep a very close eye on it.
nvm that.. i dont think the head gasket was leaking. someone pointed out to me it was leaking out of the valve cover which is when i realized i forgot to put the valve cover gasket on lol
another question. the head i have is fullyy built and the block is stock. for whatever reason after it warms up its idling around 400rpm and it usually stalls out. i have a stage 2 crower cam and most everything else is supertech internals.
anyone know what could cause the low idle?
anyone know what could cause the low idle?
wow, I would not be able to drive my car with piece of mind knowing that I didint torque down the head, you could have unecessarily warped the head. you are supposed to torque the head to certain specs, and in a certain sequence so there is equal pressure applied to the gasket, so it wont leak. when you put in a new one, go for the 3 layer metal Y8 gasket, I think its a little thinner that the d15 ones, so it will raise compression a tiny bit
u dont have a tune, thats y ur idle sucks. Ul probably need more fuel at idle with a bigger cam like urs. I bolted heads on plenty of times with no torque wrench with no problems. The order u bolt it down though is extremely important, i do hope u did that correctly, if u didnt ud know by now
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