'97 ItR #263 'Frame-Off Restoration'
OK,
So im getting ready for California Collectors Registration which is about a year and a half away for my caR now. So I felt like this was as good a time as any to tear heR down. As of right now its pretty well stripped, almost everything is out of the bay and interior and im now onto working on the process of rebuilding the oem B18C5 motor, the caR is in great exterior shape so i dont plan on repainting or anything too intrusive. However CA collectors Reg will still allow for 'Modifications of it's era' so im going to do a mild build but obviously cant go turbo or anything that would alter the original state of the vehicle too far.
Right now i have all brand new waiting to Install
ApexI WS2 Cat back exhaust
DC 4-2-1 Header & gasket
Car-Sound CA-legal high flow cat
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Hondata INtake Manifold
JG Edelbrock 65mm TB
AEM ItR cold air intake
OEM ItR valve cover and gasket
crower dual valve springs
crower ti. retainers
8.5mm MSD ignition wires
NGK BRK7e-11 spark plugs
Hasport DC2R 62a Motor mounts
Competition Clutch Stg 4 sprung
CC Ultra-lightweight DC2R flywheel
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
ARP flywheel bolts
OEM DC2R calipers, fully rebuilt
OEM Brake Master cylinder
OEM Clutch master cylinder
OEM Clutch slave cylinder
OEM top and bottom end gasket sets
OEM water pump
OEM thermostat
OEM oil pump
OEM cap
OEM rotor
Walbro 255lph Fuel pump
Moroso 5.5qt Baffled oil pan
Innovate LC1 AFR kit
Integra owners manual
'97 OEM ItR front bra
Custom fit ItR car cover
Zapco 1100.1 for subs
(2) JL-10W6v2's in box
Zapco 350.2 for fronts
Zapco 350.2 for rears
MBQuart front components
MBQuart rear components
Viper car alarm, every accessory
Alpine CDA-9887 headunit
Alpine Bluetooth and cable
Alpine Ipod KCE-433iv
Tein Flex Coilovers
Tein EDFC & motors
Tein EDFC install
OEM usdm ItR front strut bar
OEM jdm ItR rear strut bar
OEM JDM 25mm front sway bar
F7 teflon black rear LCA's
F7 rear sway bar end links
HardRace front LCA's
HardRace front end links
Hardrace 25mm front bushings
HardRace frt compliance bushings
HardRace front lower ball joints
HardRace 22mm rear bushings
HardRace RTA bushings
HardRace rear toe arms
HardRace shifter bushings
and a few other things that i cant think of right now since its after midnight
BUT........
my question is what size should i bore the block out to? should i do eagle rods/SRP 11:1 pistons? new oem valves or aftermarket? OEM or golden eagle headgasket??? i have heard a lot of horror stories about shops and sleeving a block. But most importantly does anyone know of a good machine shop in San Diego? my block is stripped i just need to have it tanked, bored, honed blah blah blah so i can then order rods, pistons, rings and bearings and begin assembly on the motor.
Sorry for being so lengthy but this is the start of a big restoration/build, so we'll see how she turns out in a few months from now.
-Wes
So im getting ready for California Collectors Registration which is about a year and a half away for my caR now. So I felt like this was as good a time as any to tear heR down. As of right now its pretty well stripped, almost everything is out of the bay and interior and im now onto working on the process of rebuilding the oem B18C5 motor, the caR is in great exterior shape so i dont plan on repainting or anything too intrusive. However CA collectors Reg will still allow for 'Modifications of it's era' so im going to do a mild build but obviously cant go turbo or anything that would alter the original state of the vehicle too far.
Right now i have all brand new waiting to Install
ApexI WS2 Cat back exhaust
DC 4-2-1 Header & gasket
Car-Sound CA-legal high flow cat
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Hondata INtake Manifold
JG Edelbrock 65mm TB
AEM ItR cold air intake
OEM ItR valve cover and gasket
crower dual valve springs
crower ti. retainers
8.5mm MSD ignition wires
NGK BRK7e-11 spark plugs
Hasport DC2R 62a Motor mounts
Competition Clutch Stg 4 sprung
CC Ultra-lightweight DC2R flywheel
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
ARP flywheel bolts
OEM DC2R calipers, fully rebuilt
OEM Brake Master cylinder
OEM Clutch master cylinder
OEM Clutch slave cylinder
OEM top and bottom end gasket sets
OEM water pump
OEM thermostat
OEM oil pump
OEM cap
OEM rotor
Walbro 255lph Fuel pump
Moroso 5.5qt Baffled oil pan
Innovate LC1 AFR kit
Integra owners manual
'97 OEM ItR front bra
Custom fit ItR car cover
Zapco 1100.1 for subs
(2) JL-10W6v2's in box
Zapco 350.2 for fronts
Zapco 350.2 for rears
MBQuart front components
MBQuart rear components
Viper car alarm, every accessory
Alpine CDA-9887 headunit
Alpine Bluetooth and cable
Alpine Ipod KCE-433iv
Tein Flex Coilovers
Tein EDFC & motors
Tein EDFC install
OEM usdm ItR front strut bar
OEM jdm ItR rear strut bar
OEM JDM 25mm front sway bar
F7 teflon black rear LCA's
F7 rear sway bar end links
HardRace front LCA's
HardRace front end links
Hardrace 25mm front bushings
HardRace frt compliance bushings
HardRace front lower ball joints
HardRace 22mm rear bushings
HardRace RTA bushings
HardRace rear toe arms
HardRace shifter bushings
and a few other things that i cant think of right now since its after midnight
BUT........
my question is what size should i bore the block out to? should i do eagle rods/SRP 11:1 pistons? new oem valves or aftermarket? OEM or golden eagle headgasket??? i have heard a lot of horror stories about shops and sleeving a block. But most importantly does anyone know of a good machine shop in San Diego? my block is stripped i just need to have it tanked, bored, honed blah blah blah so i can then order rods, pistons, rings and bearings and begin assembly on the motor.
Sorry for being so lengthy but this is the start of a big restoration/build, so we'll see how she turns out in a few months from now.
-Wes
in my opinion, sleeving a block is alright but the dart block isn't much more and it's better all around. if you're building a motor that needs to live at 10,000rpm or under boost this is how it's done.
if you're doing a restoration that usually means all back to 100% stock. you're not really doing that so basically do whatever you feel like with the car and turn it into a project.
if you're doing a restoration that usually means all back to 100% stock. you're not really doing that so basically do whatever you feel like with the car and turn it into a project.
"***Antique Vehicle Plates***
There are two categories of antique vehicles, or Vehicles of Historic Value as they're officially tagged.
Anything with 16 or more cylinders manufactured before 1965, or anything manufactured before or in 1922, is considered a horseless carriage. You can apply for Horseless Carriage plates.
Vehicles manufactured after 1922 that are at least 25 years old are considered historic vehicles and are eligible for Historical Vehicle plates. These vehicles must be of historic interest, meaning that they are collectible and are used for exhibitions and car club meetings.
Antique Motorcycle plates are also available for motorcycles manufactured in or before 1942.
Use the Special License Plates form to apply for all of the above plates. The fee is $25, and as these special plates require extra documentation, they cannot be ordered online.
The plates don't expire and remain with the vehicle if it changes ownership.
In conjunction with the Department of Boating and Waterways, the DMV also offers Vessel of Historic Value plaques for any wooden "power-driven pleasure craft" made prior to 1943. The fee for such a plaque is determined on a case-by-case basis."
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this guy is clueless. your looking for attention and want to be a celeb star in here. make a title this are the mods im doing and i need you guys to suck on my *****. except for maybe the first 10 cars build. this cars will never bring up the value you think it will in the future. if it does who are willing to pay for it.
oh god, i just glanced at the list. a stage 4 clutch on a mild build? that is just retarded. use an exedy stage 1. that 4 is going to suck donkey ***** backwards in traffic.
the flex isn't a bad set of coilovers but for that money you could go AMR and have something built to your preference.
that and why the crower VT? bigger cams going in? also, ask them about this but ti retainers are items you change every 40k miles on a v8, spring pressures are a LOT higher on a pushrod motor versus modular though so i have no idea if they need to be done so often on a honda, i would ask first though.
the flex isn't a bad set of coilovers but for that money you could go AMR and have something built to your preference.
that and why the crower VT? bigger cams going in? also, ask them about this but ti retainers are items you change every 40k miles on a v8, spring pressures are a LOT higher on a pushrod motor versus modular though so i have no idea if they need to be done so often on a honda, i would ask first though.
V16 cadillac.
My only opinion is that I wouldn't put the supertech valve springs and retainers on. The itr already has dual valvesprings and the retainers on the itr will be much safer. Titanium retainers tend to ware out in 10000 to 20000 miles.
My only opinion is that I wouldn't put the supertech valve springs and retainers on. The itr already has dual valvesprings and the retainers on the itr will be much safer. Titanium retainers tend to ware out in 10000 to 20000 miles.
where was supertech mentioned?
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stefano18
Vehicles for sale
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Nov 12, 2010 01:39 PM
OH_1fstgsr
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
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Jun 30, 2010 01:41 PM
Chubakon
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May 23, 2008 07:49 PM




Frame off restoration sorry but FAIL! Enjoy putting all that together , i think you just try to hard !!! Lol

