ive ordered the basemap chip from them after i had the final parts list for my build.
included all the specs and parts used for them to burn the chip.

since the speedfactory is a bit far from where i live( about an hour drive,55 miles away)
i dont know if that is to much for a freshly build engine to drive without tune.

i would rather not spend the money on towing, since i dont have any at the moment.
xenocron said that it would be ok to drive the car with their basetune for the break in period. but then i read that all you need to break in is cycling the engine and few pulls in gears etc. not too long.


what have you guys found when using xenocron basemaps are they pretty acurate to get me to the dyno or much way off from the final tune?

 

dont get on it. drive it like a grandma in a buick. cruise. watch all ur gauges/signs for problems. they are pretty close. safe. i had a 11.5:1 gsr with i/h/e and when i put wideband on it it was like 11.9s WOT. safe.. what kinda buiild.

 

here my build thread https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/gsr-build-questions-about-clearances-power-cams-2794034/

 

Id check out AAA
You can get a "plus" membership for ~$70 a year and that includes 3 free tow trips up to 100 miles (I think). Its also really nice to have when you break an axle at the track.
The benefits are well worth the membership fees. I dont remember what they are exactly, but they even cover you if your in someone elses car...

The first 20 minutes or so are critical for proper engine break in. Id think tuning it immediately after initial start up would be best. If you choose to run a pre-tuned basemap I would at least have a wideband hooked up too...My opinion.

OT- Raver,Did you happen to go to Electric Zoo?

 

no im in seattle now. havent changed my location since i might be moving back to NYC.

would a simple a/f be any benefit at all?
it would still show the too lean or too rich reading right?

i had it hooked up a year ago and it would show when im on either end of rich or lean and would bounce evenly when im in the middle.
doesnt the ecu take care of correct a/f ratio below certain throttle position when engine is warmed up?
i have the chip burner at home and can modify maps a bit and burn another chip just in case. the wideband costs another 200 bucks or so that is something i thought about but cant afford right now.

 

11.9 at WOT for your setup is way too rich

 

Chris knows what he's doing.. trust him.. i deal with him a good bit.

11.9 will wash your rings out, go no richer then 12.5WOT.(new motor)..

 

so driving at freeway speeds should be ok if i take it easy on the throttle? untill i get to the shop.

 

Those types of afr gauges are useless especially if they are hooked up to the stock narrowband sensor which only reads 14-15 afr. And for break in, you need to beat the **** out of it and most importantly after a high rpm pull, let the car brake itself by letting off the gas. First 20 miles or so are crucial.

 

what makes you think 11.9 afr will wash out your rings??

 

Alot of tuners aim for 13.2 AFR for All motor setups. All_Motor "Derek" knows what he's talking about.

 

Sure alot of tuners shoot for 13.2 afr for tuning NA setups.

What does that have to do with him saying 11.9afr will wash out someones rings.(NOT TRUE)

 

Wash out as in running way too much fuel for something that doesnt even need to burn that much fuel.

Im running the same compression as you and I dont even run that much fuel

 

Who said anything about my compression.

Washing out your rings is when you have so much excessive fuel that it "washes" the oil from the cylinder wall. The rings loose their sealing ability, lowering compression, and typically burning a ton oil.

Running way to much fuel for something that doesnt need it is called running RICH, two completely different things.

 

Im just using it as a reference to what Im running since you stated yours on your comment.
11.9 is excessive fuel for your setup. Believe it or not its your motor. I know what washing out your rings mean, thats why im telling you its to much fuel. LOL

 

I never said i was running 11.9afr on my car. So i have no idea where you got tha idea from. For the record, i run alot richer than that on my teg.

If you know what washing rings out is, what makes you think its gonna happen when someone runs an afr of 11.9??

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/so-whats-your-afr-timing-wot-ls-b20-motors-2467563/

 

LOl thats my bad. But since your asking about it. Read the thread I posted. It doesnt have the best info but you'll get the general idea. If you like to run rich then so be it I guess.

 

Im not asking about it, i'm asking you why you THINK running an afr of 11.9 will wash out your rings. Theres enough bad information here on HT(along with some great info) no reason to spread more incorrect information.

Trust me i dont need to get my tuning info from you.

 

LOL Trust me I dont need mine from you either.

 

Doesn't have to be from me, but you need to get some good advice from somewhere. You dont even have your rookie termninology correct.

Theres alot of good info in the books How to Tune & Modify Engine Management Systems by Jeff Hartman or Building & Tuning High-Performance Electronic Fuel Injection by Ben Strader(founder of efi101). Read them, understand them, and then get back to me.

 

the beating the **** out of it must not be done with a brand new clutch which has a 500 mile break in point how would you break it in if your running a brand new clutch. and you also cant just take it straight to the tuner unless your willing to pay breakin fees which some tuners will charge extra for

 

11.9:1 will NOT wash the walls. OEM engines run much richer than that at WOT, and they're designed to last a pretty long time.

 

Have you experienced this personally?

 

I'd like to see some proof of this, find this very hard to believe