idle problems
I have a 96 honda accord lx with the f22b2 automatic. It hasn't wanted to idle in some time, and i'm now just so sick of it i want to get it fixed. When in park or neutral it idles up and down and never stops. I have a feeling that it is the idle control valve or something but i really have no idea. All i can say is when i unplugged the idle control valve. It still idled up and down but only down a dash and up a dash very fast on the tack instead of going up to 3500 rpms and back down like it normally does. Also my check engine light hasn't came on since its started this and i made sure the light is not burnt out.
Any ideas please post.
Thanks
Any ideas please post.
Thanks
If your check engine light hasn't come on since this problem started, it may be an ECU or ECU related problem, such as a ECU ground connection, bad ECU, etc.
When you are saying check engine light not coming on, you mean at start-up right? Where the light suppose to come on briefly and then turn off.
When you are saying check engine light not coming on, you mean at start-up right? Where the light suppose to come on briefly and then turn off.
It turns on then turns off. All i was saying is that its not coming on to tell me that their is a problem with my car. I figured if my car wouldn't idle their is some kind of problem. So the engine check light should come on and that way i could take the car some where and have the code ran to find what the problem is.
I just got a 1990 automatic, I think it's the same as your '92...
I had the same exact trouble when I first got the car running. Call me redneck, but what I did was cut out a thin sheet of metal (aluminium roof flashing actually) and blocked off the IAC, the thermo valve and the starting valve one at a time.
There was a change with the IAC blocked, but it still bounced the rpm's, the car wouldn't start with the thermo valves blocked, but with the starting valve blocked the idle is normal. Sooo... I took the starting valve apart and found the diaphragm to be shot. I can't locate a new one, so I'll either leave it or try to repair it.
The only issue I have now is a bouncing idle as the engine warms, but that stops as it comes up to operating temp. It's drivable now.
BTW.. the starting valve is on the right hand end of the intake plenum as you look at the engine, it only has one vacuum line and no wires running to it.
HTH!
I had the same exact trouble when I first got the car running. Call me redneck, but what I did was cut out a thin sheet of metal (aluminium roof flashing actually) and blocked off the IAC, the thermo valve and the starting valve one at a time.
There was a change with the IAC blocked, but it still bounced the rpm's, the car wouldn't start with the thermo valves blocked, but with the starting valve blocked the idle is normal. Sooo... I took the starting valve apart and found the diaphragm to be shot. I can't locate a new one, so I'll either leave it or try to repair it.
The only issue I have now is a bouncing idle as the engine warms, but that stops as it comes up to operating temp. It's drivable now.
BTW.. the starting valve is on the right hand end of the intake plenum as you look at the engine, it only has one vacuum line and no wires running to it.
HTH!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




