I'm going for a straight power boost and would like to know for my Em2 ex vtech should I get headers and exhaust first, to accent my intake and get my car breathing right? or should i do stage 1 cam? i hear they do a nice job for the vtech...however I also hear these should be done in a paticular order so help please???????!!!! p.s. winter is hitting soon in my neck of the woods so should i wait till the spring before i do these mods??

 

cams. order doesnt matter.

 

i was wondering this also but where can we buy the stage 1 cams and what brand is preferred besides crower?

 

In general (an in my opinion) when you have this much experience with a particular model in a forum such as this, you have people that have tried all different options some fail and some don't, I would go with the group consensus.

Based on searches performed it appears that Crower is recommended.

 

Just go with crower. They know what they are doing. And they do it well.

 

I just posted one up for sale on the for sale forum. You can buy mine if you'd like just pm me

 

I would definitively get Crower.
Also you have a Vtec head and order doesn't matter. It would be nice if you purchase the intake, header, exhaust also. Just get what you can afford right now, product wise not brand wise.

Notice spelling.

 

once you do get the cam installed, dont forget youll need to chip your ecu and get tuned for the cam.

any time you change your AFR, you will need a tune.

 

Ok let me clear up a lot of stuff in this thread. I ran the cam for over a year with I/H/E on STOCK ECU. Our ecu run really rich out of the box and the stage 1 cam is designed to run on the stock ecu. Plus you can't chip out ecu's anyways. The afr's on the stage 1 was around 15.1-16 at cruising and around 12 to 13 at WOT.

Again you DO NOT NEED A TUNE OR EMS TO RUN THIS CAM. It is perfectly safe.

Without the supporting mods the cam really won't come alive. You need atleast 2.25" full exhaust from the header back and a cat-delete. I ran full 2.25 with a small portion being 2" and it really held the car back. Once I replaced it the car came alive.

On the dyno with I/H/E and stage 1 cam I put down 125 whp 106 wtq. Here's the graph.




And here's a video of it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdzcN...layer_embedded

 

2002civicrider ur the video i saw on youtube that got me on this venture...***** nice for all motor( looks like 13-14scs for 0-60) i have an aem v2 goin for dc sport headers and thinkin magnaflow exhaust...just don't know what the specifics are for doin the cam install

 

Don't buy the dc sport header unless it's the 4-2-1 full race header. The 4-1 header is basically stock and you won't see much gain. I was running the megan 4-1 header with the megan cat-delete. The ebay header/cat-delete's are fine. Ran them for years without issue. If you can find a cam for a deal get it. Otherwise doesn't matter what order you get it. Just make sure the exhaust is 2.25" atleast. You should be fine.

 

For one, you won't get much gains out of a cam with stock intake and exhaust. If you just look at the intake, the snorkel looks to be about 1.5" in diamater. That's way too small for a cam. I'd get 2.25-2.5" intake with 2.25" exhaust. 2.25" on exhaust is small enough to retain some back-pressure for torque, without being so small that it can't get exhaust gas out fast enough. I'm going to be running Kpro very soon with a stage 2 Crower cam. Buying Kpro and the cam gear this week... The cam in a couple weeks or so.

 

this may have already been covered but will BC cam work with the a1 head?

 

and it has been covered, several times, a basic google search will give you the answer, the answer is NO, you have to swap an a2 vtec head in order for it to work