timing belt broke what should i replace?
hey guys so long story short my timing belt broke last night so i was wondering what all i should replace while doing this job?
-tensioner
-timing belt
-water pump
anything else?
-tensioner
-timing belt
-water pump
anything else?
Assuming you got very lucky and no valve/piston damage was done, replace the timing belt, the water pump, [depending on year of car] and the tensioner, [again depending on year of car and condition.
I would also pull the head to insect the valves and pistons for damage/condition.
New head gasket, valve cover gasket and spark plug tube O rings and so on, maybe some APR head bolts. 94
What is the MM&Y of the car?
When was the last time the timing belt was changed, [time/miles]?
I would also pull the head to insect the valves and pistons for damage/condition.
New head gasket, valve cover gasket and spark plug tube O rings and so on, maybe some APR head bolts. 94
What is the MM&Y of the car?
When was the last time the timing belt was changed, [time/miles]?
also, have a look at the crank seal. usually if they're not leaking, i just say leave it be.
if you don't pull the head, which i think, personally, if it isn't a close interference engine, or you aren't having a suspicion of head gasket issues, is a bit overboard. not saying it's wrong by any means, but that decision is left to your own discretion;
have a look at the cam seals as well. once again, if they're dry, i'd just leave them be.
it would also be a good idea to run a leak-down test. that is, if you don't decide to pull the head and have it tested
follow the steps provided in the manual, especially the sequence of belt routing (over the waterpump side first, with the slack left on the tensioner side), and it should go easy peasy breezy
if you don't pull the head, which i think, personally, if it isn't a close interference engine, or you aren't having a suspicion of head gasket issues, is a bit overboard. not saying it's wrong by any means, but that decision is left to your own discretion;
have a look at the cam seals as well. once again, if they're dry, i'd just leave them be.
it would also be a good idea to run a leak-down test. that is, if you don't decide to pull the head and have it tested
follow the steps provided in the manual, especially the sequence of belt routing (over the waterpump side first, with the slack left on the tensioner side), and it should go easy peasy breezy
very possible that valves bent. you need to check this first. also, don't replace any seals unless you have the correct tool to install them. if you don't have the correct tool crank seals will leak quick if you just bang them in with a hammer and screwdriver. if your engine is okay just do the suggested items. belt, tensioner, pump
i've actually found it to be a rare occurrence that valves get hit in the 1.8 non vtecs when the belt goes.
that is, assuming he only has the ls in there w/stock bottom end and wasn't high revving when it happened
you can use the correct size socket for the seals and drive them in. just have to make sure and pay attention where the old seal sat because sometimes they don't rest against a shoulder
that is, assuming he only has the ls in there w/stock bottom end and wasn't high revving when it happened
you can use the correct size socket for the seals and drive them in. just have to make sure and pay attention where the old seal sat because sometimes they don't rest against a shoulder
At what rpm did it snap? Mine snapped last week at almost idle and I got lucky and didn't bent valves all I replaced was my timing belt since the water pump was leaking and tensioner was not making any noise.
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ok to answer some questions:
my car is a 97 automatic integra gs with all stock motor
never ragged on by myself, but other people may have redlined it a few times.
when the belt brok i was about 2800 rpm.
my car is a 97 automatic integra gs with all stock motor
never ragged on by myself, but other people may have redlined it a few times.
when the belt brok i was about 2800 rpm.
after i lost power i was still costing on the highway so i gave it more gas and the rpm went up to 4000 but the car didnt go anywhere. i let off the gas and the car shifted so rpm was now at 2200 (car is still slowing down) untill it just shut off.
Last edited by armintheman; Oct 4, 2010 at 07:59 AM.
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