Acura Integra All Integra Except ITR

New to Hondas and integras

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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 11:55 AM
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meyerk9's Avatar
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Icon2 New to Hondas and integras

Hello, I am interested in buying an integra to replace my unrealiable pos avenger. I have around $2300 to spend and am looking for an ls 5 speed. What are some common problems with these cars and things to look out for when buying from a private seller? Thanks in advance
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 12:09 PM
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Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

It all really depends on how honest the seller is with you. It also depends on the year you get/want. Common stuff that I found wrong with my 1998 Gsr when I got it was a torn axel boot. The upper control arms were worn out and needed to be replaced. It needed brake pads and rotors. And it needed tail light seals which was reasonably obvious due to the ammount of water/rusty areas under the spare tire. Most problems are kind of car specific. If you aren't a good mechanic find one and have he/she look over the car before you buy it. They should be able to give you a good idea of what needs to be replaced/fixed. When you get it just do general maintainence first. Oil change, air filter, fuel filter, timing belt, alternator belt, power steering belt, ac belt, water pump, and what ever else needs to be fixed. With out knowing what year and how many miles its just hard to say what you will run into. Just make sure it isnt rusted out. Your best bet if you dont know a lot about the car you want to buy is getting a good mechanic to look it over to make sure you arent buying a problem child.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 12:13 PM
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Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

If you buy a pre modded honda in that price rang.There is going to be ton's of thing's wrong.Bad oil in a car that som one is trying to sale is a red flag for me.Not only did they not take them time to tune up a car befor sale,it show's how much they car about it.When meeting some one to buy a honda if all they talk about is how fast it is and what they beat in it.There is your sign of the car being treated like crap.Integra's dont really have a flaw as a car.It is the owner's who kill them.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 12:21 PM
  #4  
1998GsRIntegra's Avatar
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Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

Originally Posted by dudesitsjdm
If you buy a pre modded honda in that price rang.There is going to be ton's of thing's wrong.Bad oil in a car that som one is trying to sale is a red flag for me.Not only did they not take them time to tune up a car befor sale,it show's how much they car about it.When meeting some one to buy a honda if all they talk about is how fast it is and what they beat in it.There is your sign of the car being treated like crap.Integra's dont really have a flaw as a car.It is the owner's who kill them.
That covers the pre modded honda side nicely. Well put. Usually modded hondas have been abused. Not all of them, but most of them.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 01:32 PM
  #5  
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Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

Yeah, I guess thats probably with any used car...modded=beat on. Im looking at an LS though, and from what ive heard, those motors (like all honda motors) are bulletproof. Not to mention it make 140hp in 1.8L. Thats crazy for that time period, seeing as toyota is making 1.8L engines today with dual VVT-I that only make ~130hp. Any insight in ls motors? and the 5 speed trannys their paired with? btw, im looking at an older dc, probably a 94-97ish.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 02:10 PM
  #6  
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From: elkhart
Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

before starting car, underhood inspection
1. check oil, coolant in radiator and in overflow bottle.
--two purposes, if blown headgasket, you will see the two mix, you also can see the quality of the oil, IE if its been changed in the last year

2. , check around cam seals for leaks, b-series are notorious for developing leaks around the cam seals, Note cam seals are located on the passenger side by distributor and vtec selenoid (if present). Next look for oil on the tranny where the head and block meet, another indication of something gone wrong.

3. Look for leaks around the lines, check radiator upper and lower, and on the back side of the block by thermostat housing, check where the heater hose lines go into the cabin. Check PS lines around resevoir. Look at the brake master cylinder/booster, big black round thing on firewall, see if there is any white build up or chipping paint. If the paint on the booster is chipping off, then this means brake fluid is starting to leak.

4. check vacuum lines, look around the intake manifold at the vacuum lines are there any blocked off? any cracked, since some cars are getting 15+yrs old, this happens.

5. if car has over 90k inquire 2-3 times about when the timing belt was changed, if they are vague get it change immediately, along with water pump, tensioner.

6. Pull the plugs, check for the color, if there is any oil on them, run away unless you are doing a motorswap soon. they should be a nice brown color, white indicates lean condition, black is rich.

7. check air filter if its not a CAI.

inside car

1. place key in ignition, turn to on, do not start, you should hear the fuel pump prime (humming for 1-2 sec). you should also see the CEL flash on, then turn off if there are not CEL(check engine light) codes. If it doesn't light up, the bulb has been removed, replace or leave.

2. check ecu, its normally located passenger side kick panel, if you open the panel and the ecu is bolted down, then most likely it hasn't been touched. but its something I look at since with swapped hondas you get poeple that don't use the right ECU. also make sure its the correct generation, as you could be like me and get a obd2 wired up ecu in a obd1 car. OBD1=92-95, 96+ obd2, before 92 is OBD0.

3. check in passenger side for any coolant leaks, this is the heater core if anythign is busted you shoudl be able to see it.

4. start car, make sure oil pressure light comes on and cuts off immediately. check idle, if its a cold start, should be around 1500rpm until the coolant gauge rises. should settle around 700 at idle once warm.

other things

1. open up the trunk, hatch, whatever and look for any water in the sparetire well.

2. check all 4 tires for the tire ware, this is a big issue to see if its been wrecked or just never aligned.

3. push on the car, IE push on rear bumper towards ground to see if the rear shocks are gone, push side to side,, you shouldn't be able to move it that far.

test drive

while you don't have to do the drive yourslef, you can just ride along.
1. go through all gears, including reverse, when you pull out of the parking spot, look for any oil deposits on the ground, do a visual inspection under the car for anything leaking when car is on.

2. go over some bumps, you want to see if the car can hang together, a speed bump is a good way to test. go around some corners at more than 5mph.

3. keep the stereo off once you tested it, you need to be listening to engine noises and other noises. Test heat and AC at full blast.

4. make sure to feel the steering wheel if not driving to see how it shakes, also get a feel of the clutch/brake/gas pedal to make sure in proper order.

5. when done, check oil and look underhood for any new leaks or anything.

if satisfied, purchase car.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 02:14 PM
  #7  
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Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

^^^^ there yea go
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 07:21 PM
  #8  
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Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

Welcome to Honda, Civics and Integras are cool, so are most Honda products. Whenever I go to buy a car that is not too expensive, I always ask if they will allow it to be inspected at my cost if I am serious about it. If they are not willing to do this, then BEWARE!

I look at the odometer and ask about problems or history. Lots of times cars go through lots of hands and no one knows what's up. If it is a Cali car, it will have to smog. It is usually free to smog but costs for a sticker or report. If it doesn't pass, it could be expensive to get to pass.

I look at mileage, year and general condition. 10,000 miles per year is OK, 14k + is not. so a 99 with less than 140K is probably about right. BUt 150 or more is too high. The bushings and general parts on the car will be worn and need servicing. Maybe brakes are OK now, wheels OK, alignment too but shocks are weak and it rides a little rough. SHocks are expensive. Performance shocks are even more expensive. Not even high performance or lowering kinds, just better than OEM.

Some other stuff to look at, Is there ANY grinding between gears up shifting or down shifting. Can you speed shift into third? Clutch history is good to know. Engine compression and condition of the fluids, oil and water especially. I can check out a car pretty good in about 10 minutes, Removing wheels and doing compression checks are something else.

How the car idles from a cold start and how it achieves a stead lower idle as it warms up are great indicators of its general condition. But if you want a tight looking car and want to spend a bunch of dough on mods then just get one with clear title and paperwork, runs and just about everything works.

If bottom end goes out, you can rework the head a bit with cams and springs and then get a F20B bottom end and have some real power.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 09:47 PM
  #9  
vtecdc4's Avatar
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Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

Originally Posted by boostedls92
before starting car, underhood inspection
1. check oil, coolant in radiator and in overflow bottle.
--two purposes, if blown headgasket, you will see the two mix, you also can see the quality of the oil, IE if its been changed in the last year

2. , check around cam seals for leaks, b-series are notorious for developing leaks around the cam seals, Note cam seals are located on the passenger side by distributor and vtec selenoid (if present). Next look for oil on the tranny where the head and block meet, another indication of something gone wrong.

3. Look for leaks around the lines, check radiator upper and lower, and on the back side of the block by thermostat housing, check where the heater hose lines go into the cabin. Check PS lines around resevoir. Look at the brake master cylinder/booster, big black round thing on firewall, see if there is any white build up or chipping paint. If the paint on the booster is chipping off, then this means brake fluid is starting to leak.

4. check vacuum lines, look around the intake manifold at the vacuum lines are there any blocked off? any cracked, since some cars are getting 15+yrs old, this happens.

5. if car has over 90k inquire 2-3 times about when the timing belt was changed, if they are vague get it change immediately, along with water pump, tensioner.

6. Pull the plugs, check for the color, if there is any oil on them, run away unless you are doing a motorswap soon. they should be a nice brown color, white indicates lean condition, black is rich.

7. check air filter if its not a CAI.

inside car

1. place key in ignition, turn to on, do not start, you should hear the fuel pump prime (humming for 1-2 sec). you should also see the CEL flash on, then turn off if there are not CEL(check engine light) codes. If it doesn't light up, the bulb has been removed, replace or leave.

2. check ecu, its normally located passenger side kick panel, if you open the panel and the ecu is bolted down, then most likely it hasn't been touched. but its something I look at since with swapped hondas you get poeple that don't use the right ECU. also make sure its the correct generation, as you could be like me and get a obd2 wired up ecu in a obd1 car. OBD1=92-95, 96+ obd2, before 92 is OBD0.

3. check in passenger side for any coolant leaks, this is the heater core if anythign is busted you shoudl be able to see it.

4. start car, make sure oil pressure light comes on and cuts off immediately. check idle, if its a cold start, should be around 1500rpm until the coolant gauge rises. should settle around 700 at idle once warm.

other things

1. open up the trunk, hatch, whatever and look for any water in the sparetire well.

2. check all 4 tires for the tire ware, this is a big issue to see if its been wrecked or just never aligned.

3. push on the car, IE push on rear bumper towards ground to see if the rear shocks are gone, push side to side,, you shouldn't be able to move it that far.

test drive

while you don't have to do the drive yourslef, you can just ride along.
1. go through all gears, including reverse, when you pull out of the parking spot, look for any oil deposits on the ground, do a visual inspection under the car for anything leaking when car is on.

2. go over some bumps, you want to see if the car can hang together, a speed bump is a good way to test. go around some corners at more than 5mph.

3. keep the stereo off once you tested it, you need to be listening to engine noises and other noises. Test heat and AC at full blast.

4. make sure to feel the steering wheel if not driving to see how it shakes, also get a feel of the clutch/brake/gas pedal to make sure in proper order.

5. when done, check oil and look underhood for any new leaks or anything.

if satisfied, purchase car.
dam that was really well put, nice work
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 04:11 AM
  #10  
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From: elkhart
Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

thanks
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 11:30 AM
  #11  
meyerk9's Avatar
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Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

Great information. This really helps alot and I will probably end up printing this and taking it with me when I look at one. I know there are tons and tons of people that tune hondas and I always have wondered why people like them better than any other car?
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 02:46 PM
  #12  
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Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

Originally Posted by meyerk9
Great information. This really helps alot and I will probably end up printing this and taking it with me when I look at one. I know there are tons and tons of people that tune hondas and I always have wondered why people like them better than any other car?
With the right combination of parts(and not too much money), these cars turn from a reliable econobox to an extremely fun track monster. Parts are relatively inexpensive and the fact that the VTEC line of engines can rev so high is what makes these cars appealing.

Plus, it really doesn't take much work to have a good looking honda as well, unless you're into the details. One of the most desirable hondas is the Integra Type R.. Right out of the box it's considered the best FWD car EVER, as well as a good looker.
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 03:34 PM
  #13  
dudesitsjdm's Avatar
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From: Riverside
Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

A list of honda's from most sought after to ehhh **** it ill buy it lol.2-3 are a tie depend's on the person.Im sure to most people the list would b e diff.But to most it is pretty close the list is of honda's most sought after model's.

1.nsx
2.s2000
3.rsx type s/type R dc5
4Newer civic SI
5Integra type r
6civic type r
7.Integra GSR
8.Civic ep3 si
9.2000 si
10.civic si 92-95 hatch back
11.civic EX
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 05:58 PM
  #14  
xilef1025's Avatar
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Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

Originally Posted by boostedls92
before starting car, underhood inspection
1. check oil, coolant in radiator and in overflow bottle.
--two purposes, if blown headgasket, you will see the two mix, you also can see the quality of the oil, IE if its been changed in the last year

2. , check around cam seals for leaks, b-series are notorious for developing leaks around the cam seals, Note cam seals are located on the passenger side by distributor and vtec selenoid (if present). Next look for oil on the tranny where the head and block meet, another indication of something gone wrong.

3. Look for leaks around the lines, check radiator upper and lower, and on the back side of the block by thermostat housing, check where the heater hose lines go into the cabin. Check PS lines around resevoir. Look at the brake master cylinder/booster, big black round thing on firewall, see if there is any white build up or chipping paint. If the paint on the booster is chipping off, then this means brake fluid is starting to leak.

4. check vacuum lines, look around the intake manifold at the vacuum lines are there any blocked off? any cracked, since some cars are getting 15+yrs old, this happens.

5. if car has over 90k inquire 2-3 times about when the timing belt was changed, if they are vague get it change immediately, along with water pump, tensioner.

6. Pull the plugs, check for the color, if there is any oil on them, run away unless you are doing a motorswap soon. they should be a nice brown color, white indicates lean condition, black is rich.

7. check air filter if its not a CAI.

inside car

1. place key in ignition, turn to on, do not start, you should hear the fuel pump prime (humming for 1-2 sec). you should also see the CEL flash on, then turn off if there are not CEL(check engine light) codes. If it doesn't light up, the bulb has been removed, replace or leave.

2. check ecu, its normally located passenger side kick panel, if you open the panel and the ecu is bolted down, then most likely it hasn't been touched. but its something I look at since with swapped hondas you get poeple that don't use the right ECU. also make sure its the correct generation, as you could be like me and get a obd2 wired up ecu in a obd1 car. OBD1=92-95, 96+ obd2, before 92 is OBD0.

3. check in passenger side for any coolant leaks, this is the heater core if anythign is busted you shoudl be able to see it.

4. start car, make sure oil pressure light comes on and cuts off immediately. check idle, if its a cold start, should be around 1500rpm until the coolant gauge rises. should settle around 700 at idle once warm.

other things

1. open up the trunk, hatch, whatever and look for any water in the sparetire well.

2. check all 4 tires for the tire ware, this is a big issue to see if its been wrecked or just never aligned.

3. push on the car, IE push on rear bumper towards ground to see if the rear shocks are gone, push side to side,, you shouldn't be able to move it that far.

test drive

while you don't have to do the drive yourslef, you can just ride along.
1. go through all gears, including reverse, when you pull out of the parking spot, look for any oil deposits on the ground, do a visual inspection under the car for anything leaking when car is on.

2. go over some bumps, you want to see if the car can hang together, a speed bump is a good way to test. go around some corners at more than 5mph.

3. keep the stereo off once you tested it, you need to be listening to engine noises and other noises. Test heat and AC at full blast.

4. make sure to feel the steering wheel if not driving to see how it shakes, also get a feel of the clutch/brake/gas pedal to make sure in proper order.

5. when done, check oil and look underhood for any new leaks or anything.

if satisfied, purchase car.
ufff good help!!
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 06:02 PM
  #15  
xilef1025's Avatar
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Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

Originally Posted by meyerk9
Great information. This really helps alot and I will probably end up printing this and taking it with me when I look at one. I know there are tons and tons of people that tune hondas and I always have wondered why people like them better than any other car?
Honda is the best car to start racing. And parts are cheap compared with other cars
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 06:05 PM
  #16  
xilef1025's Avatar
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Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

You make sure put all the sensors?
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 07:46 AM
  #17  
meyerk9's Avatar
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Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

The only thing I dont like is people who say any car that doesnt have an "H" on it anywhere is a pos. I like hondas, but i know that there are other good cars to get. I guess thats just a stereotype for the typical high school aged honda driver. If its not a honda, its crap.
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 09:27 AM
  #18  
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Default Re: New to Hondas and integras

Hondas are about cheap thrills. Don't get me wrong, I've driven many high HP RWD cars, and ultimately from a car enthusiasts standpoint, there's plenty I would choose over a honda. Even a few nights ago I drove my friend's BMW 135i w/ M Package and was completely overwhelmed by the power and torque that twin turbo v6 had. Puts my integra(which I've just finished having a motor built) to shame.. lol. Unfortunately, I don't have roughly 39k to spend on a BMW.

Plus, these hondas are the perfect representation of a modern car with modern mechanics, but without the technologically advanced electronics and driving aids (short of ABS) that would be just an absolute nightmare to troubleshoot and tune. The B Series engine is very fundamentally designed engine mixed with a very technologically capable computer controlled fuel injection and a dose of a very effective electronic valve lift system(VTEC). Not to mention that these blocks are made from aluminum which have many benefits over cast iron blocks.

You really don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure these cars out. Once you do get into them though, you're pretty much sucked in. A Honda is not necessarily the ultimate driver's car, but it's what most car enthusiasts can afford and still have a ton of fun in.
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