Ok, so I posted on here about a week ago about having a bad fuel system, but after replacing the fuel pump, fuel filter, relay switch, and doing necessary fuse tests, I got my fuel pump working, but now the car just won't run. It runs while there is starting fluid being sprayed into the intake but other than that nothing. Please help.

 

so u have fuel , checked spark, check the cap and rotor, if u have not replace old fuel filter ..

 

That is what i can't figure out. I have checked all the fuses, replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter, it has new gas in it, the battery is fine..its the one i use for my primary car, and i still can't get it to start without using engine starter spray. What other problem could it be?

 

sounds to me like clogged injectors or rail, pull a spark plug and look with a light in the hole while someone turns it over to see if the injectors are spraying

 

injectors possibly?? check the resistance. i did exactly what u did on my rex lol
is it throwing any codes?

 

Thanks I will try that, that will tell me if it is the injectors, which I hope it's not due to cost of repair. But if it is at least I will have basically a re-built fuel system if I have to replace them.

No, I don't have anything to check the codes with.

 

checking the codes are as easy as pulling back the passenger carpet.

 

you don't need anything to check the codes with. just pull the carpet back and count the blinks on the red led on the ecu

 

where exactly on the passenger side do I pull the carpet back? I have never heard of this before thanks for this AMAZING piece of info.

 

the ecu is located under the carpet below the glove box. pull the carpet back and there will be a shield and the ecu is under neath that shield no need to pull shield off there is a open area and if u have a code u will see a red led light blinking.. count the number of blinks. if it stays solid and then blinks the solid red will indicate its a double digit such as 10 then so on.. solid then five blinks would be code 15.. for example..

0: ECU
check the ECU electrical connector. if no loose connectors are found, have the ECU diagnosed by a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.

1: Oxygen Sensor "A" (Primary)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

2: Oxygen Sensor "B"
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

3: MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

4: CKP Sensor (Crankshaft Position Sensor)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

5: MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
mechanical problem / disconnected piping

6: ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

7: TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

8: TDC Sensor (Top Dead Center)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

9: CYP Sensor (Cylinder #1 Position)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

10: IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

12: EGR Lift Sensor (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)
check the hoses, the EGR valve lift sensor and the System EGR valve.

13: BARO Sensor (Atmospheric Pressure)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

14: IAC Valve (Idle Air Control)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

15: Ignition Output Signal
missing or defective ignition output signal

16: Fuel Injector System
defective circuit or unplugged / defective fuel injector

17: VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

19: Automatic Transmission Lock Up Control Solenoid Valve
defective circuit or unplugged / defective solenoid valve

20: Electrical Load Detector
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

21: VTEC Solenoid Valve
defective circuit or unplugged / defective solenoid valve

22: VTEC Oil Pressure Switch
defective circuit or unplugged / defective oil pressure switch

23: KS (Knock Sensor)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

30: Automatic Transmission Signal: "A" / SEAF / SEFA / TMA or TMB
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

31: Automatic Transmission Signal "B"
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

41: Primary Oxygen Sensor - Heater
check the heater for the proper voltage signal.

43: Fuel Supply System
check the fuel pressure, fuel pressure regulator. check the oxygen sensor. also, check for vacuum leaks.

45: System Too Lean or Too Rich
malfunction in the fuel monitoring systems

48: LAF Sensor (Lean Air Fuel)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

54: CKF Sensor (Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

58: TDC Sensor 2 (Top Dead Center)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

61: Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 1 (Primary)
high voltage, low voltage, or slow response

63: Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 2 (Secondary)
high voltage, low voltage, or slow response

65: Oxygen Sensor Heater (Secondary)
malfunctioning or defective oxygen sensor heater

67: Catalyst system Efficiency Below Threshold
malfunctioning or defective catalyst system

70: Automatic Transmission
malfunction with the automatic transmission controls

71: Cylinder 1 Misfire or a Random Misfire
a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

72: Cylinder 2 Misfire or a Random Misfire
a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

73: Cylinder 3 Misfire or a Random Misfire
a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

74: Cylinder 4 Misfire or a Random Misfire
a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

75: Cylinder 5 Misfire or a Random Misfire
a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

76: Cylinder 6 Misfire or a Random Misfire
a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

80: Exhaust Gas Recirculation
insufficient flow detected

86: ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature)
circuit range / performance problem

90: Evaporative Emission Control System
leak detected in the fuel tank area

91: Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
low input

92: Evaporative Emission Control System
insufficient purge flow

 

thanks for the ECU guide I got something to do on my day off now

 

Does the engine light turn on and then turn off when the key is turned into the on position?

If not then the relay you put in is no good or fuse number 14 or 15 (check 15 first) is blown.

If this all checks out you can have a friend crank the engine while measure the voltage at each injector connector. I'm not sure off the top of my head what the SI gets voltage wise but they should all be the same and it is usually somewhere between 5 and 12 volts.

If that all checks out then as someone else suggested check the resistance (All of this can be done with a dollar store multi meter) of each injector. Again, I don't know the value of the SI injectors but they should all be roughly the same. If one of them is out of whack then you know that injector is bad.

It's not likely that 1 or even two injector are the problem - your care would run on 3 injectors (Terribly but it would at least fire here and there) and it would try to run on just 2 injectors. As a matter of fact, it will idle poorly on 2 cylinders.

Check to see that you have voltage to the injectors when cranking the engine.

 

Also, how much gas is in it? At least 1/2 tank? If the fuel pump was not quite perfectly located it may not be able to draw the last couple of gallons of fuel from the tank.

Also, the fuel filter your replaced was the filter under the hood correct?

Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator? If you can get your hands on a fuel pressure tester that is the first thing I would do. There is a 12mm plug bolt on the top of the exit side of the fuel filter. You can screw in a fuel pressure gauge there. You should see around 45PSI I believe.

If you don't own one - Harbor Freight has them cheap or perhaps you can 'borrow' or rent one from Auto Zone.. Pep Toys... etc.

 

Did you change injectors? Are the injectors the correct ones for the set up?

 

I had a problem with a civic I bought years ago. It wouldn't start and after due diligence I found that someone had replaced the stock injectors.

 

check fuel pressure regulator

 

I would buy an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, my crx was doing everything yours did but everything was good, so when I got a fuel pressure regulator it turned right on? Maybe you should try it.

 

alright I will check the injectors tomorrow, along with the ECU (weather permitting), and if all checks out fine I will move on to to the regulator.

 

while your at it double check the timing eh

 

So i am sitting in the car now checking the ECU and when the ignition is switched to the number 2 position the ECU blinks once and goes off almost instantly, so does that mean the oxygen sensor is bad?

 

does it blink and hold once then repeats or does it hold then blinks again then holds solid again? and yes deff check the timing make sure its tdc

 

no it flashes once then quickly turns off, almost like it is just flashing to show that the ECU works.

 

I'm having the same issue in my 96 gsr but I cant check the codes my cel light just stays on. I got a noid light tonight to test injectors. I will do it tomorrow.

 

have you checked the resistance on the injectors yet?

 

I got my car running now, albeit a short cut I learned from an old Ford Racing dog I know. He said to get some guitar string, carburetor cleaner, and some compressed air and take the fuel injectors out and run the guitar string through the fuel injectors (not sure if this step helped any as the honda fuel injectors aren't exactly straight through) to loosen up any big chunks of material, then spray the carb cleaner inside the fuel injectors and let it sit for a few minutes, then take the compressed air and blow them out. Not sure how long this fix is going to work but all I need it to do is last long enough. Now it is time for me to work on my seized up brake system, and locate 4 tires.