99 civic ex/96 gsr swap with obd1 p72 ecu - bogging problem
ive been running my 99 civic ex with a 96 gsr swap with my obd2b p2p ecu an i just got a chipped obd1 p72 ecu from ha motors and everything is fine except the motor wont rev right..it bogs up and is like something is plugged. it doesnt do that with the p2p but i havent wired the iab for the p72 yet, will that cause it to bog and hesitate so bad? prob a dumb question but its my first swap so im unsure. any help would be appreciated
its a new chipped obd1 p72 from hamotors so its not the ecu...i duno the only thing i can come up with is i must have plugged something on somewhere it didnt belong but i dont know..right now the iab doesnt even have n/e plugged on to it and from wut i saw today when i looked quick the only extra plug i have is for the ckf but i already have that bypassed
no it has a gsr base map..n it has 2 cel codes but i can only get them when i put the p2p in it p1381 and p0141 cyp, and o2..the o2 is new and worked before the swap so i dont really understand y thats coming up but the cyp could be bad, but would a bad cyp cause the motor to run so bad? it doesnt run that way with the p2p, it just runs like a beefy y8 with a bad idle..so y would the p72 run so much worse? i know your probably goin to tell me to get a new dizzy but i wanted to know if it sounds like something anyone else has ever experienced and if there is something else i can do or fix???
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so i changed the distributer and it got rid of the cel for the p72 ecu but its still running like ****, better then before by a little but still like ****. the p2p ecu still runs the same as before, maybe a bit better due to better spark from new dizzy and i also put in new spark plugs and new 8.5mm wires. still dont have iab hooked up but i zip tied the second butterfly open and still the same if not worse. very lost please help
I considered it but it's also from hamotors so I doubt it. It feels like a vacuum problem but then I don't understand y the p2p ecu works almost fine tho
I know this is probably dead and solved, but I had same issue. My problem did not stem from the IAB hooked up correctly. Right now I have no vacuum line on the actuator or IAB canister. But ordering one soon. I removed cap and rotor, took off the 4 spade connectors, used needle nose plyers to "pinch" the female ends tighter, and used dielectrical grease on both male and female ends. The spade connectors will be harder to put on, but they dont budge at all when connected. make sure these connections are TIGHT with the grease, and will help out tremendously. Hope this helps if anyone else sees it, give it a try the grease was only 4 bucks, and took about 10 mins to do. Good luck
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