Im new here so instead of shredding me a part and telling me to go here, go there, just help me out the best you can...

I have a cherry 96 red civic ex that was 100% bone stock when i got it... I swapped it myself as i have many before with a Jdm Gsr from Hmotorsonline.com... TO THE POINT! i have had it in there for a year now and is now starting to smoke now and then like all other Honda's in the world, not a lot, just a little...

My plans are to pick things here and there up and boost this motor with a goal in mind of MID/HIGH 3s to the wheels... Im lookin at what type of setups that have worked for you guys to reach those numbers, Internal wise was well as turbo mani setup...

Engine setup... Eagle H Beam Rods, Pistons (what compression?!?) Leave the head completely alone, put back together with Honda gaskets and bearings.. Spec the oil pump... Arp head Studs

Turbo setup... Ramhorn (Throw me some good names) T3/4 .63 .70 (Garret, Turbonetics??) Hondata s300

Good intercoolers you have used?
Piping size suggestions?
Intercooler size suggestions?

Will i get these numbers with a good tuner and a simple setup?!?! [/FONT]

 

you can def get those numbers on a gsr with rod/piston combo maybe 9:1 comp? thats what iam running but in a ls...

you dont really need a ramhorn u could just get a log mani for cheaper than a ramhorn unless u have the cash for a name brand ramhorn but ive heard some tend to crack overtime

for intercoolers iam running a godspeed has lasted me the whole time ive had this setup 2 years and piping size atleast 2.5 and intercooler size doesnt need to be huge iam running a fairly small intercooler but if u want to make more power might as well save your money now an get a bigger size intercooler for later use what iam going through at the moment had 300 whp now want 450 =]

 

Thank you...
Godspeed product, i will have to look at them...

Yea i def. think i want to just do the internals this winter and have it done for peace of mind... But im not loaded! so i will have to do the motor this winter, and accumulate the rest as i go... shooting for a goal of being done in the spring sometime... My concern is when the motor is put back together with rods and low comp. at what compression will i be able to still drive without a turbo for breaking in purposes, or until i am able to get the rest of the setup ready to go tune

So better phrased, what compression pistons can i get away with still driving it as a regular NA car until i can gather the rest of my ****??

More setups that have worked for you as well, keep them coming

 

Like i said i have a 96 Civic ex... so i have A/C and P/S... im ok with losing A/C but would like to keep the P/S for when the car has 400 to the wheels so if any of you know a Mani that is user friendly to those, OR BOTH! let me know

 

Try checkin out forged performance outta troutdale oregon. They have awsome manifolds and downpipes. Id personally go with a ramhorn style ( better flow and will help spool the turbo quicker ).

 

Thank you for your input... i will be looking into there product!

Opinions on SCAT rods???

 

Did some research and decided on a few products i am going to use... Forged perforance Ramhorn (out of Oregon, there **** is NICE!) -Thanks Bizzle50H3- Precision Injectors along with there FMI that is rated good up to 750WHP Just in case The INLET/OUTLET is 2 3/4... So piping should i run 2 3/4? and if so what turbo would best suit this application... I would like to run just a standard Journal bearing Garret turbo... but with that intercooler and piping size, what turbo would push the correct CFM for a daily street driven 375+ whp????????? Any thoughts?

 

You could go with a .57 trim turbo. Im running a 50 trim on a B16 but I dont get full boost till 5300RPM (kinda sucks) If you have the money go ball bearing. Intercooler piping size isnt a huge deal, its easier to get the pipes bent correctly than just buy some couplers. But id say go with a 2.5in piping and get ur coupler sizes from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/category.php?cat=6 they are dirt cheap and have any reducers and elbows ull need.

 

Will i be able to support Precision 750's or 1000 injectors if im only going to run in a 225 to 300hp range... i will it be too much... what im getting at is i want all my product to be able to run 4 somethin after the motor is built... but if i decide to boost my motor and run it with the stock internals for a little while will my setup be too big for such little Hp range??

 

please don't drive a untuned car. your going to blow your engine and have to rebuild it again. and don't get a top mount or a ramhorn. most log mani's are cheap and crack very easily.

 

Yeah logs are cheap but haven't had mine crack or my friends we have had them for like 3 years

 

Thats not what im getting at... What compression can i run where i DO NOT need to use a turbo for my breaking motor in period... Thank you

 

Doesnt really matter, you can run low compression internals on a motor thats not even turboed and it drives fine ( slower, but it does fine ). And with ur power goals your gonna be running a bigger turbo, so if you keep ur car at low RPMs for the break in you probably wont even spool the turbo that much at all. As far as what the other guy says " dont use a log mani, ramhorn or a top mount" dont listen to that, its all about what kind of metal is used and how good the welds are. If you are getting the ones from forged like you said you were they have LIFETIME warranties so obviously they will hold up, they stand behind their work. They tuned my car, so ive had personal experiance with them, they are an awsome group of people down there and will def honor ur warranty. As far as ur question, get whatever compression you want, just dont go full throttle till the motor is broken in

 

Alright thanks for the info... Next 2 questions are, What pistons have you had expeirence with..?? Im thinking either JE, CP or Weisco... Do you have a preference of one over the other, or knowledge about one of them holding up better? and about piston rings, would you use whatever rings come with your pistons or maybe to use oem rings on the forged pistons??? ever heard of doing this??? Which would seal better?? Any1?

Thanks again for listening to my noob questions

 

Really any of those pistons from reputable companies would be fine. and eagle "I" beam rods are good, kinda spendy though. You can use the rings that come with the pistons, just make sure they are installed right. Id recommend buying a used block with a ****ed up rod or rod bearing for cheap ( and hope the crank is good ) and have a shop build that for you so you dont have the down time when you pull ur GSR motor outta ur running car.

 

I think i might do that...

Would be simple to then just pull the motor out and switch the head over to my built block that would be on the engine stand, then it would be at perfect working angle to put either a VictorX on it or Just a cheapy Skunk Mani on the backside... Then clutch and put it back in.... That could all be done in 1 good long saturday

So i have ben doing a lot of studyin into wastegates and how they work, from adjustable ones to the sizing of the wastegate to work properly to give you the ability to have a proper working wastegate without allowing boost creep...

Correct me if im wrong....!!! but the smaller the turbo, the larger the wastegate you should use... vice versa the bigger the turbo the smaller the wastegate... EXPLANATION... if running a bigger turbo you are not going to be spooling till later in your RPM range to need a wastegate that has a bigger valve in it (such as the 42mm 44mm wastegates)... Though when you have a smaller turbo that builds to peak boost faster/sooner in the RPM range you NEED a bigger valved wastegate (such as a 42, 44)to release the excess exhaust gases to keep boost creep away... Correct???? Please correct if i am wrong

My question is... i would like to get a Tial 38mm... will this be a happy meeedioker wastegate for my goals with the size turbo i will run...? turbo size i would like to use will be somewhere in the A/R range of 57 to 63 with a Ramhorn setup??

Any knowledge out there?

 

don't get a ramhorn manifold. i made that mistake and i dont make full boost til 5500rpm. thats on a t3/t4 ".50 trim" turbo.

 

Ramhorn manifolds flow better and are more efficient. If you want boost quicker get a ball bearing turbo or a smaller one. A tial 38mm wastegate would be a perfect wastegate for you right now, ( thats what im getting here in the next few days ). Honestly if you want a good street turbo get a T3 super 60. you should get close to your 300HP with it on say 12-14 PSI. On my 1.6 liter with a ramhorn and 3 in exhaust I made full boost at 4300 RPM and that was on a single came so ur 1.8 should spool it up a lil quicker. but a .57 trim should be more than enough to get ur power goals, longer to spool up and making ur car mostly a top end car though

 

I honestly dont want my boost to come in till around 5k anyways... but a lot of things can factor into how/when your boost is coming in... Such as the difference in compression your using compared to the compression (piston) im using... higher compression, more exhaust gases spinning turbine sooner/quicker.... wastegate spring rating can also have an effect to some degree... So in theory, i think your full boost issue you say you are having is not being caused by having a "RAMHORN" mani

Back to my question... Wastegate sizing, read below please and answer if you can

 

most ramhorns use 44mm wastegate cause they flow so well without it and using a 38mm wastegate boost creep occurs on most vtec heads at least ... you'll hqve no trouble keeping a/c especially at that power so why lose it?

 

Its hard to find a ramhorn thats A/C compatible thats not gonna break your wallet!! But I have a 38mm currently on my ramhorn with a 8PSI spring but on the dyno it was consistanly at 10.5 PSI and wanting to keep going ( think my wastegate is bad though )

 

they flow too much for a 38mm ... and an a/c compatible mani is usually only like 250-300 more and if there used the price is the same just makes sure you get a good one.. the repsonse of the car and the fact that you can make 300-800 with them depending on turbo and accessories

 

Trujdmek... so my ramhorn has the 38mm flange on it, im assuming 38mm is size of the flange not the wastegate itself, so with my mani im pretty well stuck with a 38mm right?

 

And my question to him as well is what would be the correct/right combo of mani, wastegate and spring rate to run in a 8-12 psi range... More or less asking what spring rate should i use say if im running a 42mm tial to run a consistent 10 psi???

Would it be a 10 pound spring or would it be a 8 pound spring... Is the spring rating a rate at which the valve is fully open or STARTING TO OPEN... if you answer that i think i can figure out the rest..

 

I had a friend who had a LS turbo setup originally with a log mani (Ebay) it cracked and he then bought a ramhorn to put on (a nice one) he didint change his tune or anything (dumb i know) but he also switched over the wastegate and never changed it at all either...

Now he had a good flowing mani that created awesome power that spooled nice, His car would spool out/turbine would govern itself out and cut out way early in the RPM range... especially the higher the gear/more load he had on the motor... is this from having WAY to small of a wastegate for his new application of the very well flowing ram compared to his cheap POS from ebay.???