im trying to understand how did i end up with tighter clearances.

the machine guy told me to get same ones that were in the block originaly
so i did.
i ended up with 2 minimum clearances on the mains and 2 on the rods.

what i cant understand is:
if same bearings were used from factory, shouldnt the clearances be same or loosen up from wear? the block is 1996.

but they are tighter instead...im a lil confused.

 

Have you installed bearings before? Did you install them dry? Did you torque properly in stages? Is your torque wrench calibrated? Did you mic the bearing journals for roundness? Did you use a mic or plastiguage? How tight WERE they? Please answer these questions so that myself and others can better assist you. Whatever you do, don't just say screw it close enough. The crank is the single most important item in in internal combustion engine as nothing endures more stress.

 

the machine guy was the one measuring evrything i was writing it down.
we measured few times to make sure.
no plastigauge
he used the micrometer and dial bore gauge
we put the bearing lube on them when everything was torqued down and all torqued according to the service manual.
and used stretch gauge for rod bolts(arp) when measuring them as well.

i checked the crankshaft with the torque wrench and it pops at 14-15lb/ft when i rotate it, i was reading the posts here and most people said 15lb/ft is where it should be.
it rotates smoothly all the way through doesnt get stuck in any angle.

thats why i was asking cuz i dont feel comfortable with the clearances.

 

Try without assembly lube. Clean them with brake cleaner, wipe with lint free cloth n retorque. Bearing clearances should be measured withOUT lube. If clearances check out, THEN lube and install.

 

Nvm. If not using plastiguage, run the smaller bearing.

 

so thats a definite no go for those toight ones nothing i can do besides replacing them?
i dont own a stretch gauge so it be a lil hard for me to reinstall rods i dont think i want to go back to that shop anymore... since i was relying on his knowledge to keep it safe and he didnt say a word.


but my original question would be why did they got tighter than factory assembled?

 

Does the plastiguage confirm your measurements?
Is there any chance you mis read the colors? Sometimes they can be hard to read after being oil stained for years and years....
It doesnt make sense the clearances got tighter with the correct bearings....

 

im gonna plastigauge them once i get the chance. to double check

 

Use a stretch gauge after checking the journals for roundness. Use a mic.

 

it woult be easier if i had a stretch gauge.

is there a place i can buy that attachment for the dial gauge?

 

i think theres definitely a mistake somewhere
heres the numbers he gave me after measuring
mains
1grn .0013
2grn .0009
3ylo .0014
4brn .0009
5red .0015


rods
1brn .0015
2brn .0013
3brn .0013
4blk .0016


in order for me to get desired clearances(.0017) id have to get all red main bearings
am i doing it right?

lets take#2 grn .0009

i need .0008 more clearance to get to .0017
do i substract .0008 from the grn bearing thickness as listed(.0789) or do i x2 the bearing thickness and then substract .0008 and divide the result by 2 again?
so in first option id end up with a bearing that is:.0781 which is not even listed on OEM bearing
second option i end up with : .0785 which is pink or red bearing, which sounds more like it.

 

Think of the term clearance as "available space". If you're looking to achieve. 0017 then you would need smaller bearings to create more space. .0004 smaller from each bearing.

 

plastigauges my main bearingsjust now.
it seems they are all above or at .0015


order 23451

 

checked 2 of my rod bearings they came up to around .0015 as well.
what a waste of time that was. now i have to check everything again

and find a stretch gauge somewhere.