Ok. Well I have an ek obd2 and an obd1 jdm gsr .. I've been running the sohc vtec ecu...just for the mean time for almost 3 months. Now my car dies! The motor turns over but doesn't ignite.. I took out the plugs and stuck a screw driver to get spak and nothing... Then finally after a while it cranks and boggles out and I give gas and it dies out again. I am looking for a new distrubitor now are all obd1 dizzys the same or I need to get a gsr one?

 

no. sum d15 and sum d16s are dif. they have dif bolt patterns. b series does too.
the internals...idk about that.
you have an obd2 car and ecu with an obd1 motor? lol

obd1 crank positison sensor is in teh dizzy.
obd2 is on the oil pump.
go go rywire.com they have the cfk wire trick for now
get a step down harness and obd1 ecu then switch the wires back

 

Yea I've been slackin since I only use the car home and to work... I did the bypass for the oil pump cfk ... Stepdown do you mean a jumper obd2 to obd1? Cause I have one but not an ecu...

Could this be an ecu problem or distributor ignition cause none of the wires spark

 

Any CEL codes?

If you test spark by the method at the link in my signature, is spark bright white? If not, start by testing the coil:

 

We need the following information to best help you:

Exactly what ECU are you running - year/OBD type/jumper harness or not? Numbers off the side of the ECU would be great.

Does your distributor have 1 or two plugs in it?

Help us help you.

...and to answer your question absolutely there are tons of different types of distributors. I can think of three distributors that will bolt up to your B18C engine, but only one will have the right plug(s) on it and run the engine.

 

Ron I am on my way to the plaza where the car left me stranned ... I have my auto scan reader and ill give u the codes ... as for b15 I will get u all the info when I get to the car I'm gettin all my tools in my girls car now... Give me 10 mins

 

Ron codes are p1362 and p1382 I'm not getting spark at all only when it decideds to crank and I don't ha an ohmmeter :/

B185 funny that you ask... My block is a B18C and the head I am not sure... All I know is that it has a 98 stamp vtec head and came with and obd1 dizzy that I had to convert the plug to obd2 for pnp. The exact numbers for the ecu is 37820-P2P-A31 and the bottom row says 921-120267

 

My best GUESS would be this distributor if you ever needed to replace it:

Distributor King TD84 <-- click for pics

...but best advice is coming from Ron in testing coil, and I'd also check the igniter if the coil tests well.

If the coil is good, and you need an igniter, your best bet is to go ahead and just buy a complete new Distributor King unit, because the cost of the igniter alone from Acura/Honda is close to the complete Distributor King unit.

EDIT

I forgot you were throwing codes P1361/P1362 - not really coil or igniter related codes.

 

BTW:

When I look up codes P1361/1362 for the 96-98 Civic (since that's the ECU you're using)AND a 1998 Integra GS-R it comes up with TDC sensor, and shows diagrams of the distributor housing, shows wire testing, etc. etc. so this doesn't look to be the CKP problem for the sensor that's inside the lower timing cover, etc.

Civic flow chart:





Integra flow chart:





I'd say it's going to be your distributor, or most likely the wiring done to convert it.

 

 

I'm sorry I doing all this via blackberry 3G and I'm about to throw this phone to the wall... I would send u a link from a thread I started and it has the diagram I used .. But I'm on the phone so its hard to jump thru pages ... And second I crank the motor and it started ... Of I let it idle for a while to charge the battery ... It stays at a 1500 rpm... I give it the gas and it boggles out and I got p1361 62 and 63

I took out the distributor and I am just planning to buy a new one ... But here's the dilemma. Since I am planing to put a obd1 ecu do I need to get a obd1 or 2 dizzy? And how well I tell which dizzy cause I don't know what head I have all I know its a 98 stamp it can be a b16 head for all I know will the gsr dizzy fit that? Also it looks like this dizzy was tampered before I bought the motor

 

Did you happen to take the distributor off for any reason and then put it back on and it started to run shitty?

 

Yea ur suppse to mark where u took it off from .... I didn't so I think my timing will be messed up

 

No. OBD1 and OBD2 B-series distributors are identical internally, literally the only difference is the plug(s) OBD1 use 2 plugs, OBD2 use one large plug. OBD2 USDM engines have a CKF (crank fluctuation sensor) on the oil pump, this is in addition to the CKP sensor in the distributor.

Internally they're the same, you can run an OBD2 distributor with an OBD1 ECU and vice versa. Buy whatever plugs in to your harness.

 

It sounds like your ICM is bad. I had this happen to me about 6 months ago. The car kept cutting in and out for a few minutes until it finally died.

 

hey guys its been a while. I had my car at a shop since september in the south florida area.
i do not recommend this shop to any one.
I ended up paying for a repair that when i left the shop 5 minutes later into the drive home it died out on me.
I ended up taking it to another shop.
They installed a brand new dizzy and i put in the new spark plugs.
I'm still getting P1382--Cylinder Position Sensor No Signal
whats next on my list is the wires,
than checking for a short from the ecu to dizzy

 

Given that the distributor is new, one of the two CYP wires is probably broken (open) or has a short, or the ECU is bad.

 

about buying a used ECU from someone

 

Check the wires before thinking about the purchase of an ECU.

 

BOOYA! P1382 is gone.

according to the
my CYP M is BLK not WHT c14.
appon this confusion BLK was cut which was giving my a single for the CYP (code 9 ) aka P1382. How I found it was a BLK cable was from well with all this being fixed. Code 9 aka P1382. I think I would have saved almost 8 hundred bucks if it wasnt for this picture now i just have one last code p0135

 

Start by checking whether dash fuse 15 is blown.

 

Checked Fuse15 its ok

P0135 Primary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Primary HO2S) (Sensor 1) Heater Circuit

From what i read and did I have a obd1 motor running on a obd2 ecu and its looking for the o2 sensor... according to Katman im really not sure how to do this.

 

P0135 is for the heater element of the primary (not the secondary) O2 sensor.

Check the resistance of the heater element to see whether the O2 sensor is bad.

 

where is the primary located?? underneath next to the cat or infront on the 4-1?

 

In front of the cat.