So I'm working on a 96 accord w/ f22b1 with a automatic transmission and it has no spark at all. Replaced dizzy and all internal, and the tdc sensor harness at the crank. Fuel pump primes, I pulled the cap and hooked a spark plug wire to the coil and it throws spark but a light Orange ish color one. But once I put the new cap or old cap no spark through it. Tested cap and rotor and they are totaly fine. Car was just driving down the road and died. I don't know if I'm over looking something, but let me know what you guys got. While I was replacing the sensons on the oil pump I also replace the timing belt and its dead on. This is a 100% stock car.

New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, dizzy and internals of dizzy, tdc/cyp/ckp sensor harnes on oil pump, timing belt, balancer belt, tested main relay, opend ecu cover nothing burnt, im at a total loss. Let me know if you know of anything else.

 

no one???

 

Have you check your ground connections? There's one on the IM on the driverside, this one will not give spark if its corroded, loose, or not hook up.

 

Yep checked all grounds. They are all good.

 

there is also one on the driver side in the back of the motor hooks to the intake manni i had same problem

 

might be the main relay as well. its under the sterring wheel.

 

 

Did you replace the dizzy with a new one or another used one?
If used, was it known to be good before?
It's not uncommon for even some new dizzy's to be faulty. I remember seeing a bunch of threads in the past on "new" dizzy's being bad (maybe they were aftermarket, but I forget).

 

Well I replaced the coil, then the igniter, then the whole dizzy All with new parts. So that 3 coils, 3 igniters. And a new tdc sensor down on the oil pump.

 

Assuming the problem isn't caused by a poor connection or improperly connected component like the ignitor I would have to ask what input tests you've performed.

Have you confirmed a timing signal from the ECM to the ignitor? Have you confirmed power at the ignition coil primary terminal? Have you confirmed a switching ground signal at the ignition coil primary circuit negative terminal?

No insult, but besides replacing parts, what tests have you performed of the ignition system besides confirming no spark?

 

Ive ohmed out the coil. Getting 12v to it, getting 12v to the igniter, getting 12v to pin A24 on the ecu. All within spec. How would I check for timing signal at the ignitor? It gets 12v from the coil, it sends 12v to the tac and to pin a24 on the ecu with the key on. I know this is gona sound kinda like a dumb *** here, but I removed the wire that runs from the coil to the igniter, with it still hooked up to the coil i keyed the car on and put the wire to ground to see if I was getting a yellow/orang spark or a blue spark. It was blue so im getting good power out of the coil to the ignitor. I get spark out of the coil but its a very week spark. Not strong enugf to make it throught the cap, down the wire to the spark plug. Its like its not getting enugf amps...... Man Im at a total loss.

 

Cranks but wont turn over? Check for loose terminal on you battery

 

It cranks over, just no spark at the plugs. But a very light spark at the coil. Its tight like a butthole in prison!

 

Are the spade connectors at the igniter nice and tight? I've seen loose spade connectors cause a no-start condition. Also, I worked on one where the customer put screws into the coil terminals that were too long. They bottomed out and wouldn't secure the terminals tightly.

It's possible the original problem was something like a faulty ignition coil, for example, and during the repair you may have made a mistake which caused a new cause of the no-start.

 

Well the spades are tight for sure. As for bolts being to long. They are the same length as the stock bolts and the coil is nice and secure.

Keep the ideas coming guys, Im sure there is something thats being overlooked that will smack me in the face..... I think....lol

Next.....

 

I still suspect you replaced the component that originally failed but have created another no-start condition during your repair unintentionally.

 

Re-nspect everything immediately after the coil I guess.

 

Gona check everything after the coil. Starting with the igniter. My father in law just got tboned in his crx today so I havent had a chance to work on it. Hes ok, but the crx............................................... .................................................. .................................................. ................................ R.I.P.

 

was the problem ever solved?

 

im having a similar problem right now