Have not been able to figure out the source of this problem. It's difficult to articulate, but I will try my best to describe the conditions of this issue so that I can get help towards a solution.

2001 ITR, stock motor, JDM ITR header, aftermarket universal cat, stock exhaust.

When I am driving the car at any speed, and accelerate quickly, (usually crossing into vtec) the car will seem like the fuel is cutting in and out everytime I hit the gas pedal, and if I put the car in neutral, it will stall and not idol. The only way i've been able to stop the car from doing this is to rev it up to about 7-8k RPM a few times, then the car will idle and I will be able to accerlerate normally.

When this is happening and I am approaching a stop sign or red light, I'll have to make sure I keep the idle up so that the car will not stall. It stops doing this when I rev the car up a few times, and I don't understand why, which makes me question wheather it might be the after market cat my car is throwing a CEL for? Sometimes the car will idle perfect, or almost to the point where it is about to stall (500-700RPM).

The car acts as if im accelerating and turning the fuel cut off switch on and off quickly while doing so. While the car is doing this, and I hit the accelerator, it will feel like the motor is jolting like there is a broken motor mount or something, and that is clearly not the issue. I don't understand why reving the car up high a few times makes the issue go away, but I can only drive the car real slow or it will start to act up again..

Any help, tips, advice would be appreciated. Thanks

 

Was having similar symtoms on my fully build GSR my ebay liquid filled fuel gauge was off by 10 psi, u may want to check the mushroom looking thing at the end of your fuel rail called fuel damper 9 times out of 10 screw falls out n diaphram rips, causing air leak, or your fuel pump is going out

 

Your CEL may not be just the bad cat

Grab a paper clip and pull the code, sounds like you may have an EVAP CEL, also check your injectors they may be gunked up. I had the exact same symptoms in my GSR. You should really only see the symptoms when the engine is cold, when it warms up to running temps it seems to disipate

GL

 

Is the CEL code for the O2 sensor?

 

No. I remember it was for a defective cat, it wasn't throwing a code for the o2 though.. Which you think it would if it's already saying the cat is no good...

 

Is that still the only code it's showing?

A bad cat won't cause either O2S codes to be listed, only an O2S (or O2S heater) failure will show a CEL for anything O2S related. Bad Cat code (65) is just that, a bad cat (or no cat, high flow cat, etc)

 

The only code it was showing (about a month ago) was for a bad cat, nothing about O2 sensors. I'm going to scan it again and I'll post the codes.

 

Got the computer scanned today. Came out with one CEL code.
PO420 - Catalyst Efficiency

Anybody think this could be relevant to my described issue? Anybody know any symptoms of this code? I'm thinking about removing my cat and seeing what happens. I do have a $100 universal cat on the car..

 

I had encountered a very similar symptom as what you described and it turned out to be a sparkplug failure.

 

Perhaps you have coil pack or distributor failure as well as low fuel line pressure ( I am not sure whether your integra uses coil pack or distributor)

 

How old are your plugs, wires, and distributor cap/rotor?

 

tps

 

USDM Integras have a distributer. If it was failing, wouldn't the car just not start and run like ****? It only bugs out most of the time when I hit high RPM's, or 'get on' it a little bit.

I just replaced everything you mentioned in June. And come to think of it, this problem didn't seem to arise until just after I replaced everything. I used OEM honda and NGK for everything...

 

Check your distributor rotor button. See if the screw backed out that goes on the shaft.

Also, post a picture of the cap/rotor-button.

 

When I get a chance tomorrow I'll post up a pic. Thanks for the helps so far everyone!

 

DON'T DO THAT. It will pollute the air and make your car smell.

 

I have a straight pipe for the mean while..

 

lol I loves me some sarcasm!

And OP, as mentioned inspect your ignition components because that seems to be a common problem AND it's an easy thing to do. Pop off the cap, inspect the seal and rotor, see if wires are snug, remove/inspect plugs for fouling and grounding problems.

As mentioned, TPS is also worth looking into but that's a little more involved unless you have Hondata/VAFC/etc to log the output.

 

I'd put my money on the TPS being the issue. It certainly fills the bill for the symptoms as you've described them.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I'm going to start taking **** apart this week when I'm off from work. It's probably something stupid like mentioned above.

 

That's the same code I was getting, 50 miles after I installed a hi-flow cat and reused both of my oem O2 sensors. I cleared the code and 50 miles later, the code was back.

Per a member I went to e-bay and searched for "angled O2"
I bought the one for the rear O2, installed it per the instructions, and no more check engine code.

It appears that I was allowing a stronger flow of exhaust to contact my secondary O2 sensor. When the ECU compared the primary O2 to the secondary O2 there was a mismatch, thus my 0420 code.

 

SAME HERE

OP try swapping out the plugs first. It's a cheap fix if it happens to be the problem.

 

The CEL seems to come and go as it likes. Somedays I start my car up and its on, and others days it off. Usually lasts a while then it switches to on or off again for a while.

I JUST changed my plugs with the OEM NGK recommended plugs three months ago, June 23. Unless I did something wrong, which I don't seem how, I don't see how that could be the issue, but I guess it can't hurt to look into that as well.

 

OP do you have a VAFC? I was having the same exact problem. I changed the IACV and a few sensors but still the same problem. I came to find out my VAFC was on the wrong setting. In/out was set at 1 and cylinder wasset at 6. I changed it to 6/6 and 4 cylinder and I have no issues at all.

 

Nah I don't have a VAFC in my ITR. I never liked messing with those especially in an OBD II car.