Trying to figure out the best route for a stiffer body. Strut tower bar in the front, is there a huge difference between two point and three point? As far as sub frame bracing goes, I know that the Beaks bar is basically just for looks so how are the Skunk2 bar or ASR plate, with or without sway bar? I want to hear every bit of input on this, please.

 

Autocross section has a great thread on this with all very knowledgeable guys and answers.

Search it up.

 

Urethane bushings, Bigger sways, Strut bars, cage.

 

What is your current setup? What do you mainly do with the car?
Higher spring rates, sway bars are 2.

 

Just general street use/dd. Over the summer I really plan on rebuilding and boosting my D16. Right now i'm having a big problem with the dome light flickering on every bump I hit because of all the body flex. It's dumped on a set of poor Neuspeed coilovers, I'd love to swap these out too. Any opinions on LCA's?

 

Dome light is probably flickering from poor ride not body flex. For LCAs I'd get f7.

 

How much money do you have??
Koni/gc, I think you car you use itr sway bars on del sol's, look it up.
Asr brace, lca's do noithing but add "bling" And better tires.

 

Well you could just press energy bushings into stock lcas or just buy f7s, cut a few pounds, and not worry about pressing in bushings. That's my view.

 

This is true, but you would be spending close to $250 that could be spent else where and actually have an affect.

 

i have a sol to and i have the same problem man i have a jdm pw front strut bar and a rear spoon with sk2 lca's and it still does it it drives me crazy i dont think its the body flex if you find out what it is pm me please thanks.

 

Basically you just need a cage.

 

So aftermarket LCA's just cut weight.. it's cost effective with good results to just press new bushings. Any thoughts on a three point strut bar? And as for the rear bigger, better sway bar? Money is relatively tight. The lot of my funds for the winter will be going towards the motor but I won't be skipping out on suspension parts either.

 

Yep, lca's do noithing more then add "bling" and cut a couple pounds if that. You are much better off replacing the bushings in the lower control arms and other parts.

Sometimes people fail to remember that alot of our cars are over 10 years old and oem bushings are giving up. Rubber doesnt last forever.

How tight are we talking here?

A bigger rear sway isnt always better. Do you currently have sway bars?

 

I have a 3 point front strut bar and single rear strut bar and my dome light still flickers taking turns at high speed but never on bumps, only when I take sharp turns a 40mph+

I think getting a rear sway bar would help, and replace bushings etc. and getting a quality coil over set.

I haven't tried an a-pillar bar yet , it seems like it might help too.

The brace from ASR is just to keep the larger sway bars from ripping out, it's actually functional, while Beaks is all bling.

My ride is definitely stiffer with the 3 point EBAY special front strut bar and single bar in rear, at highway speeds on windy days my little sol no longer heavy wind shimmys ,it feels like a tank now.

I don't have a rear sway bar , but I think it would provide the best results compared to tower struts.

 

Tight as in I want to put more money towards the motor. No sway bar as it sits. I think I'll go with a 3pt front strut bar, a 2pt rear, and this bushing kit http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...rod=16%2E18103 . Does anyone know if a rear strut bar will interfere with the roof in the trunk?

 

Strut bars really do nothing.
They are a waste of money beyond just looking cool.

 

Are you serious?

 

How could a strut bar not do anything? I could maybe understand a bar with pivot points not doing much because it can flex.. but a solid welded bar would clearly stiffen the chassis.

 

I've been told this many times from track veterans.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...trut+tower+bar

 

IMO there is other things that should be done first and get noticeable improvements from. If you were to put one on and with out you knowing someone took it off, you would never know the difference.

 

higher spring rates, swaybars, wheel and tire will make far more difference than bars.

 

Strut tower bars do work. as far as the dome light goes you might need to adjust your door or the sensor is bad.

 

Well, you're being told otherwise from another Track Veteran now. Sure, other items like poly bushings, shocks and stiffer springs will be more noticeable. But a quality strut tower bar is an integral part of a finely tuned track suspension.

 

I have a brand new door jamb switch and my door closes flush, the problem is that the area of the door that pushes the switch has a dent so it doesn't press the switch fully. I need to attach a bumper some how. I found a set of used KSport coilovers for $450, he said there's a small fluid leak on one of the rears but they work 100%. Does anyone know if Ksport will replace the bad ones if I buy them or if it's not really a problem at all?

Since one sway bar or the bushing kit is the same price, which would you go with first? Or should I grab the ksport's?

 

I would get ahold fo Ksport and ask them how much to repair one of them first. If its leaking now, it will blow out eventually. I would do the bushings next but bear in mind that some of these are a PITA to install and will need pressed in. Make sure you factor the cost of having that done into your budget. GL.