Ignition switch problem with my 94 civic?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 33
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From: Rochester, NY, United States
I have a 94 honda civic dx 5 speed. When i turn the key to on position the check engine light doesn't cycle off. I have to jiggle my key until i hear the fuel pump relay run click on and click off. i have been driving my car with just the car key in the ignition cause if i hit a big bump and jiggles the key just enough my car quits then i have to sit wherever i am and jiggle my key until the mil light goes off. Otherwise my car will just crank and crank and crank cause the mil hasn't shut off like its supposed to after 2 second when the ignition is in the on position.
could it be a bad lock cylinder for the ignition?
is it the ignition itself?
could the spark plate in the ignition be worn?
or is it something else?
I would really appreciate some help.
Thanks
could it be a bad lock cylinder for the ignition?
is it the ignition itself?
could the spark plate in the ignition be worn?
or is it something else?
I would really appreciate some help.
Thanks
1) Test the ignition switch:

2) Resolder the main relay:
http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html
3) Make sure the G101 ground wire is clean and tight:

2) Resolder the main relay:
http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html
3) Make sure the G101 ground wire is clean and tight:
RonJ@HT always points you in the right direction, my thoughts were to do the ignition switch test procedures and he beat me to it. Just go through what he suggested and post up your results.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 33
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From: Rochester, NY, United States
well i finally got some time to look at my car today....
there is continuity through both connectors
i take it that my main relay has **** the bed?
there is continuity through both connectors
i take it that my main relay has **** the bed?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 33
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From: Rochester, NY, United States
NEW ISSUE!
i went and bought a new main relay and that wasn't the problem. i looked at my fuel pump wires under the back seat and they were all gunked up with god know what. I only had ether at the time to clean the gunk out with. i got both connectors cleaned out good and plugged them back in...the pump came on for 2 seconds and cycled off and my car started fine....
i began to head home and when i stopped for gas i put 10 bucks in, went to start my car and the pump didnt cycle and my MIL light didnt go off, so my car didnt start. i sat at the gas station trying to jiggle the two connectors to cycle the MIL off, but nothing happened...
today, i proceeded to test the fuel pump and with the ign on i tested for battery voltage at the pump connector and it didnt show any so i proceeded to check the main relay....I checked the relay for continuity through all terminals it told me to do and the relay checked out fine according to the diagram i got from the link above....
Now i dont know what to do next, which is why im seeking advice from Ronj@HT or anyone else...something must have happend from the point when i turned my car off at the gas station and put $10 worth in and went to try and start it again.
anything?
thanks
i went and bought a new main relay and that wasn't the problem. i looked at my fuel pump wires under the back seat and they were all gunked up with god know what. I only had ether at the time to clean the gunk out with. i got both connectors cleaned out good and plugged them back in...the pump came on for 2 seconds and cycled off and my car started fine....
i began to head home and when i stopped for gas i put 10 bucks in, went to start my car and the pump didnt cycle and my MIL light didnt go off, so my car didnt start. i sat at the gas station trying to jiggle the two connectors to cycle the MIL off, but nothing happened...
today, i proceeded to test the fuel pump and with the ign on i tested for battery voltage at the pump connector and it didnt show any so i proceeded to check the main relay....I checked the relay for continuity through all terminals it told me to do and the relay checked out fine according to the diagram i got from the link above....
Now i dont know what to do next, which is why im seeking advice from Ronj@HT or anyone else...something must have happend from the point when i turned my car off at the gas station and put $10 worth in and went to try and start it again.
anything?
thanks
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Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Rochester, NY, United States
yes i have checked all fuses under the dash and in the engine compartment and they are all good! this damn car problem is a mystery unfortunately.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Rochester, NY, United States
i finally found out the problem with my vic, just havent been on here in a while since i figured it out on the day of my last post....
i googled 94 honda civic dx cranks but wont start....
http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...art-28327.html
i googled 94 honda civic dx cranks but wont start....
http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...art-28327.html
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 33
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From: Rochester, NY, United States
yeah thats what i read and heard from a few different people. to me, that sounds like a stupid design flaw that Honda has for that generation.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Rochester, NY, United States
I'm still experiencing the no start with my car after doing...
Basic info: 94 civic Dx boosted.
My car is experiencing the common problem with this gen which is where the fuel pump doesnt kick on and the CEL stays on. It will crank over but no start.
-so far i have checked the ground by the thermostat housing
-tested voltage between pin D19 and D21 on the ECU harness
-checked 5v reference at the map sensor connect
-Jumped my Main relay to confirm that both relays inside are working properly
-installed my 440cc injectors in
-replaced stock fuel pump w/ walbro high flow pump
I just bought a new ECU package from HAmotorsports with s300 program (basetune for 440cc inj.) to replace S200. I was hoping the ECU was the problem but the CEL is still staying on and the fuel pump is not kicking on. When I plug the usb cord from the new ECU to the computer and turn the ign. on it doesnt even recognize the drivers for the computer.
Now I'm back at a stand still and dont want to throw any parts at it, its really starting to test my patience level.
Is there anything else i can do to try to get my car back to running...Iv searched through many forums (honda-tech etc.) followed the diagram instructions for testing components and im still coming up short somewhere
Thanks for any other suggestions etc.
Matt
Basic info: 94 civic Dx boosted.
My car is experiencing the common problem with this gen which is where the fuel pump doesnt kick on and the CEL stays on. It will crank over but no start.
-so far i have checked the ground by the thermostat housing
-tested voltage between pin D19 and D21 on the ECU harness
-checked 5v reference at the map sensor connect
-Jumped my Main relay to confirm that both relays inside are working properly
-installed my 440cc injectors in
-replaced stock fuel pump w/ walbro high flow pump
I just bought a new ECU package from HAmotorsports with s300 program (basetune for 440cc inj.) to replace S200. I was hoping the ECU was the problem but the CEL is still staying on and the fuel pump is not kicking on. When I plug the usb cord from the new ECU to the computer and turn the ign. on it doesnt even recognize the drivers for the computer.
Now I'm back at a stand still and dont want to throw any parts at it, its really starting to test my patience level.
Is there anything else i can do to try to get my car back to running...Iv searched through many forums (honda-tech etc.) followed the diagram instructions for testing components and im still coming up short somewhere
Thanks for any other suggestions etc.
Matt
-Jumped my Main relay to confirm that both relays inside are working properly
Do you measure continuity to body ground at (unplugged) ECU connector terminals A23, A24, A26, and B2?
Do you measure battery voltage to body ground at (unplugged) ECU connector terminals A25 and B1 with the key in ON(II)?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 33
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From: Rochester, NY, United States
I lent out my DVOM to a buddy of mine so i wont be able to test for continuity between ECU terminals, but i did take a look at th main relay and listened for the clicks. I discovered corrosion around to pins on the relay and i took the case off of it and there is corrosion around one side of the circuit board in it. The last time i checked it was last fall and it was clean as a whistle, so it must of happened over the duration. I tried to plug it in with the ign on anyways and the click was very faint.
Im gonna buy a new one tomorrow and hopefully that is the issue because everything else has checked out so far.
Im gonna buy a new one tomorrow and hopefully that is the issue because everything else has checked out so far.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 33
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From: Rochester, NY, United States
tested for spark with spark tester, all checked out good...when i grounded the spark tester to the battery, it would crank over and start for a split second or two and shut off (random)...anyone have a diagnosis chart for checking the fuel system...i can hear the fuel pump click on and click off when ign on.
this is what my tach does when I turn the ignition on while the fuel pump cycles
any other options as well?
thanks,
Matt
this is what my tach does when I turn the ignition on while the fuel pump cycles
any other options as well?
thanks,
Matt
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY, United States
replace the ignition switch... my brother had the same problem, he had to take a screw driver and press against the wires underneith and then crank it over
And *holy ***** it kept running----a worn-out ignition keyswitch
Never Had An Ign Switch go out on any other vehicle before--ever.....
-But what do I know? I'm just a Chevy noob...


