What's up guys, I'm kinda new to this nitrous thing ( I was boosted before), I understand how n2o works and everything, just have a question about my set up..

B18c type r all stock other than a clutch set up (act). I want to give it a dry 75 shot, and of course get some 440cc injectors, plugs, and get it tuned on my s300..

My question is what do you guys think about the 75 shot on this stock motor, could I go with a bigger shot?..taking in the factor of the 11:1 comp. Also around how much power would I be making???

ALSO which name brand kit is the best "bang for the buck"???

Sorry for all "noob" questions, just never missed with juice before, boost used to be my thing..

 

dam 14 views not even one comment! wow come on guys!!

 

Use a wet kit
Don't go any higher than 75 (your rods will not respect you in the morning)
Put 1 step colder plugs in the car
Gap the plugs 32
Pull 2 degrees of timing out of your timing map In the high load areas
Adjust fuel jet size until you get solid 12.0 AFRs
Use a window switch to keep it from coming on at to low of an RPM, I like 3k - 500 before rev limit

As for kit...
NOS kits and NX kits are both really nice and have the really nice price to go with it.
There is one company that sells direct and online only called dynotune. I've ran all the above and you get the same... bottle, lines, solenoids, wire, ft switch w/bracket, 3 sets of jets with each of them.

 

My old set up consisted of:
b18c
JDM itr pistons
Skunk 2 tuner 2 cams
440cc DSM injectors
Single fogger dry nitrous set up I pieced togeather with NOS parts.
NGK R5671A-8 plugs
This set up made 190whp on the motor and on a 80 shot made 257whp. It was tuned on s300 on a dynodynamics dyno. Make sure you have a tuner that is confident with spray. This was a very fun set up to drive!

 

i would tune for dry 75 shot or even go up to 125 shot
as long as you have sufficient injector size and a good fuel system it will be solid with a tune, easier, cheaper and to me alot safer going dry

i was running a 100 shot on my ls and a 100 shot on my b16
if its tuned, it will ride hard all day

 

sweet, so should i do a dry with upgraded injectors? (already have the fuel pump when i was boosted), or should i forget the injectors get a wet kit and tune it that way?

 

Both kits have advantages. I prefer a wet kit b/c it kept me from running 2 sets of fuel maps. When the nitrous was active so was the correct fuel. If you are running a dry kit and forget to activate the secondary fuel maps things start melting.

Also, if you have an in car wideband that you trust, you can do on the fly fuel corrections for different weather/air conditions by simply changing one jet out.
You can also do this going with s300 and dry kit if you keep the laptop in the car and are comfortable editing the fuel maps.

There are 2 pros with going dry kit
1. by adding fuel at the injector, it will be better atomized
2. you save a little green

Either way you can get the extra power you are wanting. The torque on a nitrous motor is a bitch though. Make sure the clutch is up to the challenge.


BTW are you still running the 2 piece stock gsr intake manifold?
If so, NOS PART #: 02040NOS is a cool *** plate system for it.

 

Guess you aren't running a gsr intake... just noticed the type r part lol
And if you don't already have the injectors going wet would probably be cheaper.
Honestly you can get by with stock type r computer as well if you wanted to be a real cheap ***.
Just retard the distributor 2 degrees and lock her back down. Then get the fuel correct. Jets get expensive but I would recommend getting a few sizes + and - the recommended fuel size for the hp rating you plan on running.

 

The nice thing about the nitrous options on the hondata is that it does everything for you and is very safe with a good tune. All you do is flip a switch and it will switch to the nitrous maps. When the system is armed it will also activate the solenoid once all the parameters are met such as RPM, Speed and throttle. So lets say you didnt want to spray in 1st gear because you will just spin you can set the solenoid to activate after 40mph. It is a little more expensive i would say because you need the hondata, big enough injectors and a tune but its quite safe. DSM injectors are pretty cheap now and days too.

 

nice thats what i wanted to know also, since i have the hondata, and i wont go around spraying every where i go, would i change the fuel and ignition maps with the flip of a switch.. sweet, i guess the dry set up with the injectors arent that bad of a set up.. but one thing is for sure, its going to get tuned either way, im a firm believer that tuning is the key to everything.

 

good job Paul-eg

 

I learned from the best! I just cant wait to get my new set up tuned!

 

Thanks! I'm running a jdm b18c-r with a built head tuned on s300, i was also wondering these basic things about a nitrous setup. I'm using the stock itr fuel system though, would I be okay with picking up some injectors and leaving the stock rail and pump? Looking to gain 75hp. I should be running at 200-205whp right now.

 

for piece of mind I would get a fuel pump risk a motor over $100 I'll pass

 

did you decide on a wet kit or dry
if your running a wet kit i wouldnt worry about anything but a tune
and a dry kit i would go with some injectors and a pump to be safe
75 shot is not really a big thing to worry about. fuel rails are good for 500hp

 

i already have a pump, just wondering should i go with a 50 or 75 shot??? i really don't want to damage the motor , im also gettin some 440 injectors.. has anyone here ever juices a jdm type r before??

 

if its tune right either of those shots wont matter

 

Hi guys
I am new to this forum. Sorry if I will say stupid things like everybody knows already but I need some advice. I am installing a wet nitrous on my jdm ITR, which was lying in my garage. I run my b18c R on

Stock internals & head
Stock injectors 220's
Skunk 2 Pro series Intake Manifold
Hondata S300
Hondata Gasket Shield
AEM cold air V2
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
AEM Fuel Rail
Nology Hot Wires
NGK iridium plugs heat 7
Walbro 255 lph
ACT 6 puck clutch
Innovative Mounts + torque mounts.
Doing 216.32whp 165.86lbs torque.

I am opting for 65-75 wet shot also using s300 to retard ignition etc etc, but since I daily drive it I do not want to override the ac switch as I use it almost always. So my query is can I find or did anyone find a solution of doing another switch to arm the s300?? And leaving everything working fine as it is right now?? Just another pinout or something to arm the ecu?? As I had in mind something like this:

Put on the switch 1 to arm s300 to retard/advance ignition/fuel + safety features etc & switch 2 goes on WOT. After switching off switch 1, retard/fuel gets back to normal.

I know there are some kinda geniuses who found out how to solve this isue out there.
Thank you

 

Ok there is alot wrong here...First its a 2 year old thread. Second most will tell you to post in the nitrous thread. Anyhow since youre new ill give you my insight since this is a technical forum and im not the type to attack you for asking a question even though you probably didnt research much.

If youre using the S300 you do not need a Wet kit. Simply using a dry shot and set up the nitrous control. You can use different input then the A/C switch there are options in the software. Once everything is wired up for nitrous the Hondata will actually activate the solenoids and timing and fuel will be added/removed once its activated. In essence it is a Wet kit, Fuel is injected more percisely and evenly since its done thru the injectors. Timing would only be removed and fuel added when nitous is armed. There is no switch to activate the fuel and timing. The switch is simply to arm the system to activate once all conditions are met that are entered into the nitrous control tables. (mph,Throttle %, load, rpm ect.) So you want it turning on at 3k rpm to 8rpm. If switch is on then it activates at the given paremeters, if its off then it wont activate and will run off youre normal tune. The tune will only change when nitrous is activated and all conditions/paremeters are met that were entered

Looking at youre part list you will def need bigger injectors... and oem injectors are 240cc just fyi. Id just get 440cc....or if you plan on going turbo later you could always get some 750cc for future growth. ID injectors would be a good choice.. Rc's will do tho

 

thanks for your reply buddy, i noticed it was a bit old the thread. And also sorry for the injector size i must have had a mistake. In the software arming methodes are power steering pressure and or ac switch. So i'm not using the ac switch at all since i'll have to rewire it and i really do not want that. lets say i choose the (psp)B20 pinout i instead and i'm driving in the street hard, and i meet the parameters mph revs etc and i have no nitrous at all, the s300 should retard timing and adding fuel when i really do not need it is that right?
Also i thought i could use the s300 just to arm the system and retard and that's it then fuel compensation would be through the fogger.
And about the dry/wet query, i thought wet is more powerfull than dry. Also should i upgrade the injectors for the dry issue or also the wet one? Since for the wet kit i'll be having fuel directly from the rail to the solnoid.
Hope i don't seem to be stupid or offended ya if did apologies but i'm really happy to ask certain ques to a pro and replies in short time.

 

Yes That is right. If you ran out of nitrous and the system was Enabled and switch on the hondata would pull timing and add fuel....In that situation you just run rich for a few seconds and let of the throttle. At that point you should know enough to just diasble the system using the toggle switch.

Adding fuel thru the fogger isnt the best way. When you have a EMS that can richen the mixture thru the injectors you are going to get a better/even distribution and prob better atomazation thru then injectors. Youre also going to decrease youre chances of backfire in the manifold if fuel puddled up. A wet kit doesnt nessacarily distrubte fuel into each cylinder evenly ( unless direct port) Going thru the injectors you will have a better ability to fine tune and a much safer scenario in any case using the S300 nitrous control

 

Cheers dude, ok you're right. i'm opting for way. so we came in the question I asked before, I will use a toggle switch to arm the s300 right, but I need to know which are the pinout on the P28.

 

If I'm not using the ac switch nor the psp inputs to arm the s300, I need a toggle switch or what ever, but where and in which wire pinout??
Thanks for your time buddy. and apologies if I didn't explain well my query.