Max Rpm on a fresh d16?
Well I got a 93 ex with a blown motor and tranny for $75. I just got a new d16 and tranny, started with tearing down the new motor and replacing the rings bearings water and oil pump. No before we get started I am not a noob by any means to cars, nitrous, turbos, superchargers, v8's, I4's. I have a 8sec nova on a 400shot nitrous and a 10sec eclipse fully built with a 67mm. So anyways the plan for the civic is to say n/a and be a dd. I tune my own cars and have been reading up on chrome and will be tuning the civic myself also. I ported the head slightly and plan on getting a cam and valvesprings along with a skunk2 IM and a TB, also 450 dsm injectors walbro, ebay headers, test pipe, catback, with a vibrant muffler welded on. Yes I know cheaping out on exhaust but it came with it, just gonna weld on a vibrant muffler and call it a day. So if your still reading heres my question, Whats the max everyone is reving a d16 to?
if you upgrade the springs and retainers and have a cam that benefits from higher rpms, then you could run the bottom end to around 8 to 8500, any higher and i would suggest taking the crank, flywheel, and crank pulley to a machinist to have them balanced for 10k rpms.
i really dont understand the need for high rpms tho. the higher it revs just means the longer you have to wait to get into the powerband and shift to a next gear.
i really dont understand the need for high rpms tho. the higher it revs just means the longer you have to wait to get into the powerband and shift to a next gear.
High rpms =/= more power.
There's a lot more involved.
I ported the head slightly and plan on getting a cam and valvesprings along with a skunk2 IM and a TB, also 450 dsm injectors walbro, ebay headers, test pipe, catback, with a vibrant muffler welded on. Yes I know cheaping out on exhaust but it came with it, just gonna weld on a vibrant muffler and call it a day. So if your still reading heres my question, Whats the max everyone is reving a d16 to?
I'm not sure what the hell you're trying to do. N/A D-series builds are respectable but you're beating around the bush quite a bit.
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stock d16z6 will handle revs up to 8k all day every day but for safety 7500 or stock is perfect. no need to rev out you will stop making power around 6200-6600 with stock cam. powerband will drop and you will just be making more noise and moving slower.
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As I posted Im gettting a cam and springs more worried/talking about the bottom end. Forgot to mention the rotating assembly was balanced, didnt put that as Ive never taking a motor apart and not had that done before putting it back together. The point of the question is to see what cam I will be getting, my friend can design custom cams as he use to work for a major aftermarket company. When I tune the car obviously Ill stop reving where it stops making power.
The intake is also 2.5" to help mid range power. Id rather get the parts now for cheap then later when/if I get a nitrous system. I also have the other block which is good and may do a build later on. But really my main goal is decent power and a honda that sounds good. Which is rare to find a good sounding <2.0l, without a turbo or fully built.
This is my winter car/beater car for when my other cars are getting mods done or its shitty out.
This is my winter car/beater car for when my other cars are getting mods done or its shitty out.
"At what RPM do I lose power in the power band?"
Because that's a lot lower than the reving potential of a d-series.


